[C320-list] Past water heater posts

[Dave Sparks]

Bob:
  A couple of additional posts that I saved follow.
    David Sparks




 John Langford  <jwlangford at telus.net> to c320-list
 More options  4/26/03 Mike,
As far as I know every 320 has the same 6 gallon water heater distributed
both by Seaward products and Force 10. The former supplied the heaters for
our Catalinas. It is model S700. Replacements are easily available as are
parts (new thermostats, etc) from Seaward (http://www.seawardproducts.com/).
Pressure relief valves are standard domestic water heater items which can be
purchased at a hardware store for under $10. BTW, most of this information
is on the face plate of the heater.

Cheers,
JohnL "Sabbatical2", #172


-------------- Original message --------------

> Don't forget to empty the hot water heater coolant loop.
>
> I have hull 894 with a Yanmar 3GM30F engine and when changing the
antifreeze
> I needed about 1.5 gallons of diluted DexCool at a 50% water ratio. The
> engine has a little less than 1 gallon of coolant capacity and the hot
water
> heater loop has about 1/2 gallon of antifreeze capacity. If you just
change
> out the engine antifreeze without dealing with the hot water heater loop,
> about 1/3 of the total coolant capacity has not been replaced.
>
> After draining the engine, remove one of the hot water tank hoses from the

> top front of the engine. Keep the 2 coolant drains on the engine open. Put

> on the radiator cap and put your finger over the opening on the engine
where
> the hot water heater hose was connected. Clean off the hot water heater
> hose and then blow on the hose and the hot water heater loop is emptied
> (about 1/2 gallon).
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Karl Mielenhausen _/) "
> To: "Catalina 320"
> Sent: Sunday, October 16, 2005 3:04 PM
> Subject: [catalina320] Changing to Extended-Life Coolant
>
>
> >
> > I recently converted Hull 690 from the green (EG) coolant to the
> extended-life type coolant. Here is a link to the procedure that I
used....
> >
> > http://members.cox.net/mielen/Coolant Change.doc
> >
> > It is posted as a Microsoft Word document. Feedback and/or comments are
> welcomed.
> >
> >
> >
> > Karl Mielenhausen
> >
> > 2000 C320 Hull#690 "Silver Lining"
> >
> > New Bern, NC

Re: [c320-list] water heater

Rick and Judy Luce
<rjluce at flare.net>to c320-list
     More options      4/24/03
Looks like you've gotten some good tips on commissioning and water
systems... so let me anticipate your next need... winterizing
Here are my "winterizing" notes that I have accumulated over time.
You may want to tailor them to your specific area and needs.


Winterizing Tanks

Drain out your tanks, via the faucets, as much as practicable.  Dump one
gallon of non-toxic antifreeze into each tank. Using the COLD water faucets
only, run each faucet until the bright pink color indicates that the
antifreeze has been sucked through the feed lines and the pump, and up to
the faucets.
Then, shut off the water pump, open the hot water faucets, and open the hot
water tank drain, allowing it to empty into the bilge. Dump a half gallon of
non-toxic antifreeze into each shower drain sump, allowing the pumps to
empty them out; leave any remainder. Open up all the faucets.  Don¹t forget
the cockpit shower.
Make sure that you open all of the water system through-hulls after you haul
the boat (i.e., all of the shower drains and sink drains) and leave them
open over the winter.

( I bought a brass garden hose connector and about 4 ft of 5/8" plastic
hose.  I connected the hose to the heater drain and threaded it down through
the rib opening to the bilge.  Actually, just follow the other hoses.  Now
in fall I can slip my hand behind the cabinet unit to the heater drain valve
and drain it.)
Winterizing Engine

For the engine: change the oil and all filters. Just before you're ready to
haul, mix up a gallon of environmentally safe engine antifreeze, along with
a gallon of fresh water, in a 2-gallon bucket. detach the raw water intake
hose from it's seacock (make sure the seacock is closed!) and drop the hose
into the bucket of antifreeze mixture. Start the engine. Keep an eye out on
bucket; when it's empty, shut down the engine (there's NO need to rush; a
few seconds of running the engine 'dry' won't hurt a thing). Remove the key
and/or put a sign up so no one inadvertently tries to start the engine until
the intake hose is re-attached to the seacock.

Stan "Christy Leigh" c320 #656 Greenwich/Narragansett Bay RI

Some more interesting - to me anyway >) info on the hot water winterizing.
Although I still plan on rigging a by pass setup I may still run into my hot
water tank because I could only drain 5 gallons out of it.  Yesterday after
doing the cold water side of things I drained the water out of the hot water
tank into the bilge by releasing the pressure bypass to let air into the
tank. I had to tape the hose to the drain spigot because it is only 1 inch
from drawer cabinet wall making it impossible to screw on the shortened
garden hose I had for that purpose (shame on you designers).  Over the
winter I will cut a hole in that wall which is easily accessible by simply
pulling out the lowest/large drawer. Then I can easily connect a hose and
run it through the drawer cavity and out the little door on the forward side
of the galley cabinet to the bilge. I noticed in the picture of the forward
side of the galley cabinet online at the Catalina site there is no little
door there. I think that picture is of a 98. Mine is a 99. I closed things
up and poured in 6+ gal of antifreeze into the rear tank, which I had
already used to one of the cold faucet lines.  I then did all the hot water
faucets, galley sink first, after waiting a few minutes (blowing air) for
the pump to fill the tank. After getting pink from all faucets, then I stuck
the empty antifreeze jugs one at a time down into the bilge and filled them
with the attached hose. Only 5 were filled with antifreeze from the hot
water tank. Maybe because the tank will function with only 5 gals or maybe
because the drain spigot is a couple inches from the bottom a gallon is left
in the tank. I don't know, but that Maybe on the last gallon makes me want
to run antifreeze into it to be sure.

Stan   "Christy Leigh"   c320 #656    Greenwich/Narragansett Bay RI

Regarding draining the green water for winter we found the following
procedure to work quite well on the Yanmar engine. This technique also
provides for easy summer or midwinter use without the cost or side effects
of using antifreeze. We have used this technique successfully for three
years in the Tahoe area.

1. Shut of the seawater inlet.
2. Remove the inlet water bowl and clean the filter screen if necessary.
3. Most of the upper hose water will drain out the open filter assembly.
4. Insert a small hose into in the hose between the inlet and filter and
blow out the remaining water.
5. Open the heat exchanger drain at the rear of the assembly (water will run
out the attached drain tube).
6. Disconnect the heat exchanger exit hose at top read of the exchanger
allowing more liquid to drain.
7. Open the muffler drain and use tender pump on the hose disconnected in
step 6 to flush the exhaust line.
8. Disconnect the bottom water pump hose at the front of the engine to drain
the impeller housing.
9. Replace the water pump hose.
10. Replace the heat exchanger exit hose.
11. Close the heat exchanger drain valve.
12. Replace the inlet water filter.
13. Close the muffler drain valve.
14. The engine is now protected since there isn't any water in the heat
exchanger.
15. The engine is ready to go just by opening the water inlet.

Richard & Tish,  Relentless #554

Whale Fittings

Winterized last week and noticed something I didn't see last year and it
made the job easier. One of the plastic water supply tubes connected to the
hot water tank had a Whale type butt connector inserted about 10 inches away
from the water heater (a butt connector connects two sections of tubing
rather than tubing into some device). This allowed me to disconnect the cold
water line where it enters the heater and the hot water line where it enters
the butt connector and simply plug the two together so anti-freeze can be
pumped through the hot water supply lines. No need to clamp an extra hose
on.

    The previous owner apparently did no mechanical work himself, so I'm
guessing that it came from the factory that way. Could this be just an
accidental fit of foresight?
    Gary Benzon  "Even Keel" #207 Magothy Marina, MD
Just  call whale-USA at (978) 531-0021 and they will send a great booklet on
the whale plumbing  system with comp. instructions on how to take them apart
and put them together.
al ahlman    amanda rose #476


How do you disconnect the Whale butt connector?

It's a bit counter-intuitive, but once you figure it out, it's very quick
and easy. It's the same for all the fittings in the system. The butt
connector is like two fittings back-to-back so you connect two pieces of
tubing.

(1) Pry the cap from one end of the fitting and slide it out of the way
along the tubing.
(2) This will reveal a gray plastic horseshoe-shaped retainer ring that will
slide out easily. The retainer holds a plastic collet in the OUT position.
(3) Press the collet INTO the fitting and hold it with your fingers while
you pull the tubing out of the fitting.

Just be sure that the end of the tubing is clean before you re-assemble it.

Gary Benzon  "Even Keel" #207   Magothy Marina, MD


Happy sailing, Rick, Echo #488

> From: "Sandy Olson" <Jams9191 at attbi.com>
> Reply-To: <c320-list at sailnet.net>
> Date: Wed, 23 Apr 2003 12:42:20 -0400
> To: <c320-list at sailnet.net>
> Subject: [c320-list] water heater
>
> Hi all,
>
> The marina winterized my boat but I'm going to commission (at least part
of)
> it myself.  Does anyone have a check list for the proceedures to
commission
> the fresh water tanks and head.  Also where is the water heater located
and do
> I need to do anything to it??
>
> Sandy #466
>
>From an unknown source.

  b.    For reasons too long to go into here, but as explained to me by
the representative of Seaward who manufactured the water heater, the
pressure relief valve on the water heater should be connected to a fitting
that is connected to a hose that goes into a collection bottle.  I use a 2
liter former Coke bottle and it fills to the brim nearly every couple of
weeks.  Imagine 2 liters of water going into your bilge every two weeks!  Of
course, you have to remember to empty it out.  While you are at it,  Check
the inspection port on your water tanks.  Mine were so sloppy that when the
takes were even half fill, water was leaking out when the boat heeled.

 John Langford
<jwlangford at telus.net>to c320-list
     More options      4/26/03
Mike,
As far as I know every 320 has the same 6 gallon water heater distributed
both by Seaward products and Force 10. The former supplied the heaters for
our Catalinas. It is model S700. Replacements are easily available as are
parts (new thermostats, etc) from Seaward (http://www.seawardproducts.com/).
Pressure relief valves are standard domestic water heater items which can be
purchased at a hardware store for under $10. BTW, most of this information
is on the face plate of the heater.

Cheers,
JohnL "Sabbatical2", #172
----- Original Message -----
From: <DrShoffner at aol.com>
To: <c320-list at sailnet.net>
Sent: April 26, 2003 11:17 AM
Subject: [c320-list] Water Heater Manufacturer, Model, Web Site



----- Original Message -----
From: <DrShoffner at aol.com>
To: < c320-list at sailnet.net>
Sent: April 26, 2003 11:17 AM
Subject: [c320-list] Water Heater Manufacturer, Model, Web Sit
On 12/24/05, Allan Field <Allan.Field at comcast.net > wrote:
>
> Bob - Following is what I still have on the hot water heater. - Allan
> Field
>
> David - I had to replace the temp-pressure relief valve on the hot water
> heater this summer.  The water would heat up (either from shore power or
> the
> engine), blow off into the bilge, fill, heat up, blow off, and kept on
> cycling until the tanks were empty.  I first removed the tank - not the
> easiest job in the world - and placed a bypass on the engine side by
> simply
> connecting the inflow/outflow lines together.  I ordered a new valve from
> Seaward - about $20.00 US - and when the new valve arrived, installed
> that,
> removed the bypass, hooked everything back up, reinstalled the hot water
> heater and no more problems either on shore power or engine heating.  Make
> sure to use plumbers putty in liberal amounts around the valve as there is
> a
> tremendous amount of pressure in the tank once filled.
>
> Note that the hot water tank never completely empties no matter how long
> you
> run the faucets.  There are probably 1-2 gallons left behind of very foul
> and dirty water.  Unless you can blow the water out with an air
> compressor,
> water always is left behind.  That is why I winterize with 10 gallons of
> anti-freeze in the water tanks - the water left behind probably freezes
> over
> the winter but hopefully only to slush.  At the end of the day, the design
>
> of these tanks is awful for completely emptying.  The drain valve is just
> set too high on the tank.
>
> Hope this helps.
>
> Allan S. Field
> Sea Shadow - #808
> Herrington Harbour South
> Rosehaven, MD
>
> > _____________________________________________
> > From:         Detrick, David (GE Commercial Finance)
> > Sent: Sunday, December 11, 2005 10:06 PM
> > To:   'C320-List at catalina320.com'
> > Subject:      Two Questions from San Diego 2004 C-320
> >
> > 1. Does running the heater generate water that goes to the bilge. Pump
> > is running  more often than usual since running heater at a minumum
> > temperatue setting.
> >
> > 2. When washing down the boat exterior after a saltwater sail, is it
> > necessary to use soap to better remove the saltwater? I am using soap
> > and getting a ton of water spots after it drys.
> >
> > Is there a soap to use that will not have these water spot problems.
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: C320-List-bounces at catalina320.com
> [mailto:C320-List-bounces at catalina320.com] On Behalf Of Robert Seastream
> Sent: Friday, December 23, 2005 6:00 PM
> To: C320-List
> Subject: [C320-list] Past water heater posts
>
> Greetings, All:
>
> Bob here.  I live in New Boston, NH and moor my boat near Portsmouth,
> NH.  Just stepped out of a 1983 C25 into a 2002 C320.  I've been
> following the posts here (you've all given me plenty to consider!) and
> would like to review the one about the care and feeding of the hot
> water tank but think I deleted it.  Are there archives that I can dig
> up previous posts from?  Thanks!
>
> Regards,
>
> Bob
>
>