[C320-list] Smelly Heads and fixing Annie's Problems

John Van Vessem jvanvessem at sbcglobal.net
Sun Apr 16 08:56:52 PDT 2006 

Now I get it Thanks Steve
   
  John (sojourn645)

Steve Magennis <magenns at yahoo.com> wrote:
  John, You're right. Using the hand wand or a 12 oz cup is convenient
and easy. However, what you missed is that Annie may not discharge
gray water (stuff from the sinks and showers) into Sydney Harbour, and
her boat must be inspected and approved as in compliance. Using the
head sink gray water to flush the head is a fairly elegant (and
inexpensive) way to contain some of the gray water. For the galley
sink, she will probably need to install a holding tank.

Steve
Alchemist #909

--- John Van Vessem wrote:

> I don't get it, why can't you just lift the hand held faucet out of
> the sink and use that to fill up the bowl like I do. Why do any
> plumbing at all? I must be missing something.
> 
> John (Sojourn645)
> 
> Orlando.Duran at AveryDennison.com wrote:
> Or you can do what I do--place a plastic 12oz cup on the shelf
> above the head and use that to pour fresh water into the head when
> you flush...I have use that method since I bought the boat and have
> never had a bad smell in the head compartment..
> 
> cuba libre 2
> C320 #112
> Marina del Rey, CA
> --------------------------
> Regards,
> OD
> 
> Sent from my BlackBerry Wireless Handheld
> 
> 
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: C320-List-bounces
> Sent: 04/09/2006 11:50 AM
> To: C320-List at catalina320.com
> Subject: Re: [C320-list] Smelly Heads and fixing Annie's Problems
> 
> Dick,
> 
> Would you please detail how you plumbed head sink water to use for
> toilet flushing---seems like a good idea (to avoid smelly head fro
> seawater organisms). Would appreciate.
> 
> Len Aqua5 #1070 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Richard A. Walker 
> To: 'C320-List' 
> Sent: Sun, 9 Apr 2006 11:05:22 -0700
> Subject: [C320-list] Smelly Heads and fixing Annie's Problems
> 
> 
> Hi Annie,
> 
> HEAD SINK: 
> Option 1 :I suggest you plumb the head sink to the raw eater in-line
> for the
> head. We use the sink water to flush the head and this works fine.
> You
> only needs a "T" connecter, hose clamps and about 6 inches of hose.
> See
> below
> Option 2: Plumb it to option 3 below. There should be room under the
> floor
> boards.
> 
> GALLEY SINK: 
> Option 1: Investigate running a pipe from the galley sink under the
> floor
> boards to the connection I described above.
> Option 2: Put the grey water tank or blatter in the aft most port
> locker. I
> am not sure how this would work, Would the water drain?
> Option 3: Put a bladder in the area just forward of the bilge
> inspection
> area where the bilge pumps are. On WindWalker II we use that area for
> storing about 12-24 bottles of wine. That might work and would be the
> easiest solution. Take the 4 screws out and use a Flush Ring Catch to
> open
> the space when you want to drain the tank. You can get a catch that
> matches
> the one already on the floor boards. In the West Marine catalogue
> they are
> called Flexible Diesel/Holding Tanks made by Nauta.
> http://www.imtra.com/product/pumps_tanks/nauta_tanks.htm
> 
> 
> 
> Westmarine.com 
> 
> 
> The following is thanks to John Vez. I have edited some of his emails
> and
> reformatted the description. 
> 
> One rather straight forward enhancement is method of flushing (which 
> I wholeheartedly endorse, especially in salt water) is to T the sink
> drain
> To the through hull hose that the head is currently attached to. This
> way
> you leave the seacock closed and simply turn the water on into the
> sink. As
> youflush the water is drawn from the sink. It will also operate as
> designed
> if you open the head thru-hull.
> 
> Materials. 
> 
> 1. 2 T hose fittings, 3/4" item 'L' the barbed)
> 
> 2. 1 3/4" PVC In line Check Valve, Raritan, Model #308585 
> 
> (There is a spring in the valve that pushes the ball into the 'closed
> position'. I believe that the Spring actually was too strong for the
> weak
> water flow into the galley sink, so I snipped a couple of coils out
> of it
> and it has worked great.)
> 
> 3. 16 ss hose clamps ½" to 1 1/8" 
> 
> 4. 2 Feet of Series 162 Polyester Reinforced Clear PVC Tubing ID ¾" 
> 
> 
> Steps in the Job: (For my boat year 2000)
> 
> 
> 1. Remove the door from the cabinet in the head by unscrewing the 4
> screws. 
> 2. Remove the top drawer from the storage cabinet in the master bed
> room. 
> Make sure both thru-hull fittings are closed 
> 3. Remove the existing hose from the sink to the thru-hull fitting 
> Use 2 ss clamps at every step. 
> 4. Make a cut and place a T in the hose that goes from the seacock to
> the
> toilet 
> 5. Cut the hose from the sink drain at about 4" from the cabinet 
> opening and insert the check valve so the arrow is pointed down
> (water can
> only travel from the drain down). Place the inspection port pointing
> toward
> the door in case you want to clean out the check valve with out
> removing the
> entire hose.
> 
> 6.Place a T in below the check valve in the same line. 
> 7. Reinstall the hose 
> 8. Connect the T'd sections. 
> 9. Reinstall the doors. 
> 10. Test both fresh and sea water flushing. 
> 
> That's it!
> 
> To flush, simply fill the head sink and pump the head as you normally
> 
> would.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You should be writing a novelette on you new boat
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Dick and Jauhree Walker
> C-320 (687) WindWalker II
> 740 Olive Ave.
> Coronado, CA 92118-2136
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> John Van Vessem
> Sojourn 645
> Vallejo Yacht Club
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John Van Vessem
Sojourn 645
Vallejo Yacht Club

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