[C320-list] Water heater continued...

[Richard Grunt]

When our installer put the ac compressor in the stern lazarette, he ran a
small tube from underneath the unit and T'eed it into the larger tube
serving as the outflow from the compressor, using a Venturi valve. The
larger fast flowing stream of water creates enough suction to draw up the
condensation from underneath. Seems to work pretty well. 

Richard Grunt

-----Original Message-----
From: C320-List-bounces at catalina320.com
[mailto:C320-List-bounces at catalina320.com] On Behalf Of Pat Moriarty
Sent: Thursday, December 29, 2005 1:02 PM
To: Allan.Field at comcast.net; C320-List
Subject: RE: [C320-list] Water heater continued...

Where is your AC located? Mine is in the starboard locker and high so it 
drains to a fitting in the transom by the steps.
Pat
hull #130 11:39 AM 12/29/2005, you wrote:
>Chris - I can address both of your issues from my perspective.
>
>1.  When any water is blowing off through the temperature-pressure (TP)
>valve, it means the valve is faulty.  They do fail fairly routinely.
>Seaward will send a replacement valve for about $25 including shipping.  I
>removed the entire tank to change the valve.  Tank removal is NOT a fun
job.
>In retrospect, I may have been able to change the TP valve by only removing
>the drawers and cabinet insert.  When replacing the TP valve, be sure to
use
>plenty of pipe dope.  I use Real-Tuff Teflon Paste Thread Sealant from Home
>Depot as it is non-toxic, contains no lead, and works in temps from -200F
to
>+550F and pressure to 10,000 PSI!  A final note: I am reluctantly glad that
>I did remove the tank as I was able to dump out that last gallon or 2 of
>water from the bottom of the tank that collects over the years and never
>purges.  This water was nasty smelling, nasty looking, and full of silt.
>
>2.  The inspection ports on the top of the water tanks leak regardless of
>just about anything I tried.  I even used up to 12 wraps of Teflon pipe
tape
>to no avail.  I finally started used the Real-Tuff stuff (see above) and no
>more leaks, not even a drop!  Any overflow goes where it should go, over
the
>side through the overflow.  For the first time since I have owned the boat,
>I have a completely dry bilge (except when the A/C is running; I haven't
yet
>figured out how to get the condensate line to dump overboard versus into
the
>bilge).
>
>Hope this helps!
>
>Allan S. Field
>Sea Shadow - #808
>Herrington Harbour South
>Rosehaven, MD
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: C320-List-bounces at catalina320.com
>[mailto:C320-List-bounces at catalina320.com] On Behalf Of Chris Block ..._/)
>....._/)
>Sent: Wednesday, December 28, 2005 8:53 PM
>To: C320-List at catalina320.com
>Subject: [C320-list] Water heater continued...
>
>Can someone confirm and/or explain the below post:
>
>b.    For reasons too long to go into here, but as explained to me by
>the representative of Seaward who manufactured the water heater, the
>pressure relief valve on the water heater should be connected to a fitting
>that is connected to a hose that goes into a collection bottle.  I use a 2
>liter former Coke bottle and it fills to the brim nearly every couple of
>weeks.  Imagine 2 liters of water going into your bilge every two weeks!
Of
>course, you have to remember to empty it out.  While you are at it,  Check
>the inspection port on your water tanks.  Mine were so sloppy that when the
>takes were even half fill, water was leaking out when the boat heeled.
>
>
>Does this affect all years and hulls?  Is there a better work-around?  Is
>this why some owners put an expansion tank in?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Chris
>Amore #139
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