[C320-list] AFI cockpit table

[Chris Burti]

You are correct.

I'll probably end up trying Jeff's suggestion and get
rid of the leg. He has a great schematic on the
website, I expect that the guard legs are close enough
to build it to the nominal 9.5 inches. If I have
enough scrap, I'll make you one too.

--- Scott Thompson <sthompson at toad.net> wrote:

> My last reply didn't really answer your question. 
> First, the leg on my 
> boat has not been at all wobbly despite the hinge
> and latch used to lock 
> it straight.  If it becomes wobbly I'm confident
> that a thin strip of 
> rubber put between the two halves would tighten
> things up enough to keep 
> wobble under control.  The hardware itself is plenty
> strong enough.  But 
> it doesn't look very good (even using brass) and
> it's still a leg.
> 
> Regarding the offset on AFI's solution, I think you
> need about an inch. 
>   Basically you need enough for the thickness of the
> leg near the 
> bottom, less a little bit.  You are trying to push
> the table out far 
> enough so that the leg can fit between the table and
> the fat part of the 
> pedestal when the table is folded.  And it's still a
> leg.
> 
> Chris Burti wrote:
> > I can do the work and have the tools. As a
> > hobby/avocation I make fine colonial reproduction
> > furniture. I suspect that I still have enough teak
> on
> > hand to do the job, but was looking to minimize
> the
> > additional wood on board in the cockpit.
> > 
> > I contemplated the hinged leg solution as well,
> but
> > suspect that would become wobbly over time. After
> you
> > have made a few chairs you learn to admire the
> > engineering iherent in these wooden wonders. You
> also
> > learn to see the need for strength in the
> supporting
> > members of everything you design yourself.
> > 
> > Any idea of the offset required For AFI's
> solution?
> > I'm pretty sure I could accomplish that without
> using
> > longer bolts.
> > 
> > --- Scott Thompson <sthompson at toad.net> wrote:
> > 
> >> Jeff's solution is the best but you need to be a
> >> better woodworker than 
> >> I to implement it.  I sawed the leg of my table
> in
> >> half and installed a 
> >> hinge, plus a latch to hold it straight.  It
> folds
> >> in half out of the 
> >> way.  It's still a pain having it under foot.  If
> >> you contact the 
> >> manufacturer they will offer to sell you an even
> >> worse solution, namely 
> >> a pair of teak blocks and longer mounting bolts
> that
> >> set the table 
> >> further away from the pedestal so that there is
> >> enough clearance for the 
> >> leg to fold without modification.  But then
> someone
> >> leaning on the edge 
> >> of the folded table is likely to bend one of
> those
> >> long bolts, or tear 
> >> it out from the wood, or something else
> expensive.
> >>
> >> Scott Thompson
> >>
> >>
> >> Chris Burti wrote:
> >>> I just purchased the AFI cockpit table.
> >>>
> >>> Of course, I have run into the same problem with
> >> the
> >>> leg previously discussed on the list. I have two
> >>> questions.
> >>>
> >>> I've looked at Jeff's excellent and elegant
> >> solution
> >>> on the website, but am left wondering if anyone
> >> else
> >>> has come up with an even simpler solution.
> >>>
> >>> Does anyone else think that it is incredibly
> >> stupid to
> >>> design a table that will not work on the most
> >> popular
> >>> pedestal and guard on the market. (My son, a
> >> diehard
> >>> Tarheel, suggested that it might be the work
> >> product
> >>> of an NCSU Engineering alumnus.)
> >>>
> >>> Chris Burti
> >>> "Commitment"
> >>> Catalina 320, #867, 
> >>> Farmville, NC
> >>>
> >>>
> __________________________________________________
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> >>
> >>
> > 
> > 
> > Chris Burti
> > "Commitment"
> > Catalina 320, #867, 
> > Farmville, NC
> > 
> > __________________________________________________
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> 
> 
> 


Chris Burti
"Commitment"
Catalina 320, #867, 
Farmville, NC

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