[C320-list] (no subject)

[Scott Thompson]

Herb:  Are you saying that the line piled up at the top even when you 
were leading it in from below a line perpendicular to the center of the 
drum?  I don't see how that could happen unless the line is badly 
twisted somehow.  If it's piling up only at the top then you almost 
certainly still have a lead angle problem, and I encourage you to check 
the lead angle directly.  Some boats have the last lead mounted on the 
forward upright on the pulpit while others have the last lead on the aft 
most upright of the pulpit.  Have you tried switching to the forward 
upright?

I can't speak for whether 20 feet is the right amount to strip or not, 
but to strip core from the last twenty feet of a polyester double braid 
such as Staset, do the following easy steps:

1)  Remove the line from the furler and tie a knot about 22 feet from 
the end in order to temporaily lock the core and cover together at this 
point.

2)  Cut off a very small piece of the bitter end, if necessary, to 
unbind the core from the cover at that end.

3)  About two feet from your stopper knot (20 feet from the bitter end) 
make a sharp bend in the line and then use a sharp object to carefully 
work apart the strands of the cover, exposing the core.  Carefully 
extract a loop of the core through this hole, then carefully pull out 
the entire twenty feet of core from the end.  Be careful not to damage 
the cover when you do this.  You want to leave the cover as undisturbed 
as possible.  Take it slow.

4)  Now would be a good time to reburn or whip the end of the cover to 
prevent it from unravelling.

5.  Smooth out the cover over the core, starting from the knot and 
working towards the bitter end.  Mark the core where it emerges from the 
cover.

6.  Bunch the cover back toward the knot so that your mark on the core 
emerges almost two feet out of the cover.  From the mark, measure back 
another two inches on the core towards the knot and make a second mark. 
  This is where you should cut the core.  Go ahead and cut it.

7.  You now have a short tail of core emerging from the bunched up 
cover.  When you  eventually smooth the cover away from the knot again 
this tail will disappear inside the cover.  Before you do that, taper 
the last six inches of the core while you still can.  There are 
different ways to do this, but one that is fairly easy and good enough 
for this application is to simply unravel the last 4-6 inches and then 
prune away at an angle so that some strands are still at the original 
length and others are shorter.  Your goal here is to avoid sudden 
changes in the bulkiness of the core in the transition zone.

8.  Once you've made your taper, smooth the bunched up cover away from 
the knot until the tapered end of the core disappears entirely into the 
hole you made in step 3.  Smooth out the entire line away from the knot.

9.  You should now have at least 1 foot of line still fully intact near 
the knot, then a tapered part of the core hidden inside the cover, then 
the empty part of the cover.  Stitch back and forth a few times through 
cover and core near your knot to lock them together.  Use some good 
waxed polyester thread or whipping twine for this.  (Obviously you want 
to miss the tapered part of the core when you do this.)  A stitched 
through whipping will also do the trick.

10.  Untie the knot, reattach the end of the stripped cover to the 
furler and go sailing.

Warning:  If you strip 20 feet of core you will end up with considerably 
more than 20 feet of "empty" cover because the cover will stretch out 
once it loses the internal bulk provided by the core.  Because of this, 
you may have to shorten the empty cover somewhat in order to make sure 
that the part of the line that loads up has sufficient core for the 
needed strength.  Trial and error is called for here.  Also, some high 
tech lines have all the strength in the core and almost none in the 
cover.  Be cautious about stripping core from such a line.  You can 
strip the cover intead, but that's a more difficult job.

hcreech at comcast.net wrote:
> 
> 
> 
>  -------------- Original message ----------------------
> From: Scott Thompson <sthompson at toad.net>
>> You need to carefully check the lead angle.  The lead should be 
>> perpendicular to the drum and straight into the middle while you are 
>> unfurling the sail.  You need to check it in actual use, not just 
>> sitting at the dock.  Most likely you need to move the last block lower 
>> still, or further forward, or both.  Where is yours attached?  In 
>> looking at various pictures on the web site, it appears that there is 
>> not necessarily any uniformity in how dealers or owners have set up the 
>> furler turning blocks.
>>
>> One general trick for "piling up" that I haven't tried, but that has 
>> been suggested to me, is to remove the core from the first part of the 
>> furling line that sits on the drum.  This part of the line shouldn't 
>> come into play except when the sail is completely furled so that you are 
>> only winding the jib sheet around the furled sail, so it doesn't have to 
>> be as strong.  When the sail is deployed it is covered by many turns of 
>> line that take most of the load.  By removing the core you can get those 
>> first turns on the drum to lie flatter, leaving more room for the rest 
>> of the line.  Of course this will not solve your problem if the issue is 
>> piling at the top of the drum rather than piling up more generally.
>>
>> If I were to try this trick, I would taper the core so that I didn't end 
>> up with a hard spot in the line at the transition, and I would stitch 
>> through the transitional area to keep the end of the core in place 
>> inside the cover.)
>>
>> Scott Thompson
>>
>> hcreech at comcast.net wrote:
>>> I'm getting Cloud Chaser ready for her 8th season, hard to believe.  it's also 
>> amazing how good she looks for that period of time.
>>> Last season I fougt with the roller furling line piling at the top of the 
>> drum.  I tried everything, called Sheaffer for suggestions. I lowered the block 
>> all the way to the deck, adjusted headstay and backstay tension. Although it did 
>> not eliminated the problem it did get better, it piles up at the very end if I'm 
>> careful to keep tension on the line.  With no tension it piles up immediately.
>>> My question is, what's the answer?  I think it is headstay tension but I don't 
>> have a clue as to how to judge the proper tension.  If anyone knows the answer 
>> please share it with me, I don't want to go through another year of 
>> experimentation.
>>> Thanks,
>>> Herb Creech
>>> Cloud Chaser #606
>>>
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> 
> I tried the block at every conceivable angle.  How do you strip the core from the first 20'?
> 
> Thanks,
> Herb Creech
> Cloud Chaser #606
> 
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