[C320-list] Starting Battery Installation

[Scott Thompson]

Russell:  Have you actually started the engine using your jumper/starter 
when the house bank is run down enough to make this necessary?  If so, 
how does this work?  Do you jump to the house bank or directly to the 
engine?  If you jump to the house bank, doesn't this absorb most of the 
power in your jumper unit?  I've had very bad luck starting cars with 
these units in cold weather when connecting to a thoroughly dead 
battery, but maybe the ones I've tried weren't really good units.

Also, how heavy and bulky is the jumper?  Where do you store it on 
board, and would it be practical for me to take it home and back in the 
dinghy?  My boat lives on a mooring so I do not have ready access to 
110v on board.

Scott Thompson
Surprise, 653

Russell Monaco wrote:
> I'm certain this is a good appraoch to the problem, but I will tell you what i did, i think it cost less, and gets the same job done:
> 1-replaced both house batteries with 4D AGM's cost about $650 including shipping.
> 2-Bought a real good emergency jumper/starter from Walmart it is an AGM battery in a box with handle and 110 charger built-in, about $50
> 3-The jumper has a meter on it that tells you its level of charge, when it goes down i will plug it into my 110 outlet on the boat/with its built-in charger/wire.
> 4-I will keep using my 2 new house batteries for all functions, in the event they can't turn over the Yanmar, I will simply whip out the jumper which has plenty of juice to crank the Yanmar.
> TOTAL cost $700, but I got 2 brand new House 4D AGMS, and an AGM jumper and I didn't have to wire anything, or change any parts or anything to the boat.
> russ monaco
> Escape #621
> Stamford, CT
> Quentin Murphy <qmurphy at sympatico.ca> wrote: I'm going to heed the advice of many on this group and install a Starting
> Battery, as my original 4Ds are showing their age.  I will then replace the
> 4Ds with Deep Cycle type.  I'm staying with flooded batteries
> throughout...cost.  But I have a few questions.
> 
> Will a Group 27 battery fit forward of the two 4Ds or should I go with a
> Group 24 (automotive size)?  I understand a Group 24 is plenty to start my
> Yanmar engine.  How have others supported this extra battery?  Have they
> used plywood alone or plywood covered with fibreglass?
> 
> I going to use a separate Perko ON/OFF switch for the starting bank and
> leave the original OFF/ONE/TWO/BOTH battery switch for the House Bank.  In
> addition I was going to install a key-switch to use as an emergency combiner
> in case the starting battery will not start the engine.  My original battery
> switch and two battery circuit breakers are mounted on the starboard side
> teak panel with an engraved plastic laminate dress-panel.  It looks like
> this dress-panel is screwed into the Perko switch with four screws.  Where
> have others located the additional two switches?  I was thinking of having a
> new larger laminate dress-panel made with new lettering to house all these
> switches.   There's plenty of room on the teak panel to go higher.
> 
> Then there are the chargers.  I have a Charles 20-Amp which can handle a
> third bank, so I suppose I just run one #10 red wire with an in-line fuse
> for that.  Does anyone know the length required as it seems to take an
> interesting route?  For the Alternator, I was going to use an Echo Charger
> which I understand will allow me to tie into the alternator, but keep the
> banks separate and not overcharge either bank.  Where does the existing wire
> come from the alternator to the battery bank, so I can determine where to
> locate this Echo Charger?
> 
> Any suggestions from those who have gone through this would be greatly
> appreciated.
> 
> Quentin Murphy
> Celtic Knot #667
> 
> 
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