[C320-list] Jib Sheets Jamming - only a symptom

Mon May 22 05:54:26 PDT 2006

Dan,

  Flushing with fresh water is very important.  I just replaced my bottom bearing assembly.  Which is a tricky job because you have to remove the head stay.  My bottom bearing was so corroded that I could hardly turn the drum any more.  The upper bearing assembly was fine because it does not see the salt water like the bottom one does.  When I had Schaffer FedEx  the bottom bearing the first thing I notices was two rinse holes in the top of the housing.  My old housing did not have those holes and consequently could not be rinsed.  When I discussed this with Schaffer they said that I should have rinsed the housing from underneath the drum after each sail.  When I asked why that was not mentioned in the manual all they said was "I know".

  Anyway these bearings do not require any lubrication they are designed to run dry and will give many years of service as long as you rinse the salt out.

  John (Sojourn 645)

"Bochniak, Dan J." <DJBochni at SCJ.COM> wrote:
  Is there any maintenance such as oiling/greasing etc that has to be done
to a Schaffer roller furler? The manual I have does not mention anything
other than flushing with fresh water.

-----Original Message-----
From: C320-List-bounces at catalina320.com
[mailto:C320-List-bounces at catalina320.com] On Behalf Of
Orlando.Duran at AveryDennison.com
Sent: Saturday, May 20, 2006 2:15 PM
To: Catalina 320 List
Subject: Re: [C320-list] Jib Sheets Jamming - only a symptom

I just heard a great talk by economist Steven Levitt at a conference I
attended last week, he wrote "Freakanomcs", makes mainstream economists
seem pedestrian y comparison... :)

cuba libre 2
--------------------------
Regards,
OD

Sent from my BlackBerry Wireless Handheld

----- Original Message -----
From: C320-List-bounces
Sent: 05/20/2006 11:03 AM
To: C320-List 
Subject: Re: [C320-list] Jib Sheets Jamming - only a symptom

Actually I'm an economist, but since all economists are former or 
wannabe physicists these days, I've read a lot about rigging design and 
maintenance.

Scott

John Van Vessem wrote:
> Scott,
> 
> You're a true engineer, and I agree with every one of your points.
> John (Sojourn 645)
>
> Scott Thompson wrote:
> Only the first solution listed below -- narrowing the span of the
toggle 
> and using a shorter clevis pin -- actually solves the underlying 
> structural engineering problem. Don't forget that the reason the jib 
> sheets jam is because the toggle is not properly sized for the chain 
> plates in the first place and so the jib sheets get caught under the 
> excess span of the clevis pin. This structural problem could have more

> serious consequences for the rig, because it leads to either uneven 
> loading on the two sides of the toggle or an unsupported bending load
on 
> the clevis pin, or both. I don't know if this is actually a problem, 
> since the toggle and clevis pin might very well be overbuilt for the 
> application. But I'd keep an eye out for signs of bending, distortion,

> or stress cracks on both the toggle and the clevis pin.
>
> Covering these parts with tape or plastic or leather isn't very good
for 
> them either, because these can retain moisture, and stainless tends to

> corrode faster when exposed to stagnant, poorly oxygenated water. If 
> you cover them up, be sure to regularly remove the covering to inspect

> for corrosion.
>
> To the person who asked what a toggle is, it's the inverted U-shaped 
> piece of metal that attaches the bottom of the turnbuckles to the 
> chainplates. The design allows for flexibility in the connection by 
> letting the turnbuckles pivot fore-aft on the clevis pin and laterally

> on the toggle. This lets the shrouds, turnbuckles and swages line up 
> with their primary loads and not be subjected to bending loads, which 
> would otherwise lead to premature failure.
>
> Scott Thompson
> Surprise, 653
>
> Stanley Rogacevicz wrote:
> 
>> A third is to insert a small block of wood between the clevis and
>> chainplate on the inboard side to keep the clevis inboard and also
place
>> a small block between the clevis and the deck to make an absolutely
hump
>> free transition from deck to clevis on the outboard side then wrap
the
>> whole thing with tape. The very smooth transition from deck to clevis
on
>> the outboard side is shown in the picture on the c320 site I
mentioned
>> the other day but the block to keep the clevis in place inboard is
not
>> visible.
>> Stan
>> (formerly) Christy Leigh
>> c320 #656
>> Wickford/Narragansett Bay RI 
>>
>> 
>>>>> jvanvessem at sbcglobal.net 5/12/2006 10:38 AM >>>
>>>>> 
>> Richard,
>>
>> I have seen two solutions to this problem. One is to squeeze the
>> clevis togeather with a channel lock and insert a shorter pin. The
>> other is to insert washers to fill up the space between theclevis.
>>
>> John (Sojourn 645)
>>
>> "Richard A. Walker" wrote:
>> I have from time to time a problem with my jib sheets jamming under
>> the
>> shroud turn buckles on the deck. What seems to be the obvious
solution
>> is
>> to put 1" vice the 2" clevis pins. 
>>
>> Has anyone made this change?
>>
>> Cheers,
>>
>> Dick Walker
>> C-320 (687) WindWalker II
>> 740 Olive Ave.
>> Coronado, CA 92118-2136
>> 619.435.8986
>>
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>>
>>
>> John Van Vessem
>> Sojourn 645
>> Vallejo Yacht Club
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>
>
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> John Van Vessem
> Sojourn 645
> Vallejo Yacht Club
> 

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Sojourn 645
Vallejo Yacht Club