[C320-list] Backing into slip

[Allan Field]

Randy - Following is something I wrote several years ago for single handed
docking.  Hope it helps.

Allan S. Field
Sea Shadow - #808
Columbia, MD

SINGLE-HANDED DOCKING

Probably the biggest challenge of single-handed sailing is getting the boat
back into the slip, regardless of the wind and weather conditions, which may
not be the same as when one left the dock.  The techniques I use for leaving
and returning to the dock have been developed over many years and while they
may not be what some would consider the best way, they work for me.  Note
that I neither leave nor enter the slip under power.  All movements are very
slow and gentle with due consideration for wind velocity and direction.
Current in my marina is not an issue.

LEAVING THE DOCK

The first day that Sea Shadow arrived in her new slip was spent setting the
4 dock lines and 2 spring lines for single-handed departure and arrival.
Several hours were spent alone in getting the 4 dock lines where I wanted
them.  I insist on being able to merely slip the loop end of the line over
the cleat, so the adjustments must account for virtually all tide situations
- normal, low, high, and astronomical highs and lows.  The lines must be
slack enough to account for all tide situations but not so slack that the
boat will sail into its neighbor during a strong cross breeze.  They also
cannot be so tight that the boat hangs from the cleats in a significant low
tide or pulls the cleats out of the deck when the tide is too high.  The
time spent figuring out this configuration will greatly enhance one's
ability to return regardless of the conditions.

I have been on the boat when I almost needed a ladder to get aboard.  Other
times, I have had to jump down onto the deck.  Regardless of tide levels, I
have never seen Sea Shadow (or her predecessor) either hanging from her
lines or having the lines stretched to the maximum.  And the lines are set
so as the boat does not ever hit a piling or a neighbor, again regardless of
tide or wind.  Once during this past winter while working on the boat, the
wind was so strong that the boat was actually sailing in the slip.  The wind
was on the port quarter, pushing the boat out to the ends of the lines at
which point the boat would snap back on its lines, only to sail away again.
This was a day I had to cut my work down below short due to mild seasickness
however at no time was the boat in danger of hitting anything around it!

Note that Sea Shadow - and its predecessor - never slipped a dock line in
over 17 years of slipping the loop or noose end of the line over the cleat.

As I come in stern first, the most important line is the spring line, run
from the forward piling to a cleat on the rail just forward of the jib
fairlead.  Obviously, the intent of this line is to prevent the boat from
crashing into the dock stern first.  When I return, this is the first line
that is secured.  Once this line is attached, I know that I am "attached" to
the slip and, if necessary, can wrestle the boat in hand over hand or with
engine assist.  Since the prevailing winds are on my starboard beam, this
line is starboard and also is used to get the boat started when I pull her
out of the slip.

I also use a spring line from an aft piling to a cleat on the opposite rail.
This prevents the boat from extending into the fairway but is not really
part of my single-handed docking routine.

The first 2 lines to be cast off are the crossed stern lines, well protected
with fire hose chafe guard.  I throw them onto the dock and use a boat hook
to retrieve when returning.  If the wind pushes me to port, since the boat
is still attached forward, I am pushed against the finger pier where no
damage is done due to deployment of large fenders.  

Next I take the forward spring line off the amidships cleat and, keeping
tension on the line at all times, slowly walk the line forward while gently
pulling the boat towards the forward piling.  Once the forward dock lines
are stretched almost to the maximum, I coil the spring line and place it on
a hook on top of the piling.  I then take the 2 forward lines off the
cleats, hang the leeward line on its piling, and walk the windward line aft
of the pilings and continue to gently pull the boat out of the slip.  Once
the dodger is to the piling, I place the windward forward line on the hook
on its pilings.  At this point, I am pushing against the piling to keep the
boat moving out of the slip and may need to move side to side, piling to
piling, to keep the boat centered and moving forward.  Once the stern clears
the pilings, I move to the wheel, engage forward gear, and continue on my
way. 

I have found that trying to motor out of the slip in any kind of crosswind
invariably leads to damaged gear, such as bimini rails, when the boat rubs
too hard against a piling.  By pulling the boat out, the movement is too
gentle to damage anything should the boat graze a piling.  And if I move
slow enough and keep in control, I can usually get out without hitting the
piling, even in a crosswind.

For example, if the wind is on the starboard beam, it is the starboard
forward line that I use to pull the boat out with.  If the wind is behind
me, I let the wind do the work.  If the wind is on my nose, I just pull
harder and only occasionally, require an engine assist.

Prior to leaving the dock, I take 2 10-foot pieces of line and, using a
bowline, affix them to each loop of the dock lines over the forward cleats.
These I use for "control lines" when returning.  More on these lines later.

RETURNING TO THE DOCK

Once the main is down, I start preparing the boat for docking and do not
enter the Marina until all preparation is complete.  I tie 2 very large
fenders on the port side, rear quarter, where the boat can potentially hit
the finger pier upon returning (or leaving).  I lay these fenders on the
deck, versus pushing them over the side, and they remain there until they
clear the forward piling.  At that point, a kick sends them over the side
before the boat gets back to the finger pier.

Small fenders also are placed amidships, one each side, again laying on the
deck, ready to be kicked over as they clear the forward pilings.  These are
to protect against accidentally hitting my neighbors.

One thing I have not figured out how to prevent is the fenders catching on
the forward pilings as I pull the boat out.  If I pull them up on the deck
before they get to the pilings and accidentally bump my neighbor, this would
not be a good thing.  So I leave them down and live with the drag against
the piling as I pull out.

Next I get the boat hook out and have it fully extended with the butt end
down in the main cabin and the hook end just sticking out the main hatch,
ready to grab when required for retrieval of the stern lines lying on the
dock.

My slip is to port about midway down the fairway.  Approaching the slip, I
have just enough forward speed to maintain control over the rudder.  I
alternate between neutral and forward, trying to take virtually all forward
motion off before turning out to starboard.

If the wind is going to hit me on the starboard beam as I turn out (and this
usually is the prevailing wind direction), I start my turn as the bow
crosses the stern-in boat next to mine.  As I turn, I put the gear in
reverse.  When the boat is perpendicular to the dock, I gently start
increasing the RPM's until forward motion is completely stopped and the boat
starts to move in reverse, almost directly in the direction of my neighbor's
stern.  As the prop throws the boat to port, along with that starboard beam
wind assist, what looks like a ploy to ram my neighbor stern to stern
actually becomes a gentle and controlled backing into the slip.  Every time
I nail the pilings perfectly, I want to award myself 3 points for a "Field
Goal"! (groan!)

For any other wind conditions (port, nose, stern) I start the turn when the
bow reaches the first piling of my slip.  If the wind is coming from the
port side, which is very rare, I back up a little (which throws the boat to
port, the direction I don't want to go), pull forward (which throws the
stern back to starboard which is what I want), then back up again to get the
proper alignment for entry into the slip.

As soon as the stern clears the forward pilings, I stop the boat with
forward thrust and grab the spring line and affix it to the cleat.  I am now
attached to the slip.  I then grab the forward dock lines and this is the
point at which the "control lines" come in use.  Once the mast clears the
forward pilings, and the fenders have been kicked over the side, I stand
amidships at the bow and, using the control lines and shifting my weight
side-to-side, am able to control the direction of the stern.  Pull on the
starboard control/dock line and the stern moves to port; pull on the port
control/dock line and the stern moves to starboard.  Again, the movements
are gentle, slow, and subtle.  Guiding the boat with the control lines and
weight-shifting while also using the lines to pull the boat into the slip
makes for an orderly and trauma-free docking. and no yelling!

Once the boat is centered in the slip and the forward lines are over their
respective cleats, I move aft and, using the pre-deployed boat hook retrieve
and set the stern dock lines.

Probably the biggest mistake I could make is to not attach the control lines
prior to departure.  On Sea Shadow, the lines are red and hang on the
forward pulpit directly over the forward cleats when not in use.  It would
take a great deal of effort even for me to miss them!

DOCKING AT A NEW DOCK

Occasionally, we spend the night at a distant Marina.  Again, we tend to
come stern in as we feel that getting on and off the boat is safer from the
stern, plus we like to be part of the passing crowds on the dock!

The process is basically the same as above except that there are no lines
already on the pilings.  The technique here is to stop the boat once it
clears the forward pilings and get forward lines and a spring line attached.
Stern lines are already affixed to the cleat so that once the boat is pulled
back to the end of the spring line, I can jump to the dock or finger pier
with the stern lines and tie them off.  Again, the fenders are out on the
finger pier side of the slip.  I have done this many times by myself and
once in a 45-knot crosswind during a storm.  It wasn't pretty but I did get
in.

I would like to think that my success at single-handed docking is a result
of thinking ahead each step of the way and having a plan for all conditions.
Alas, I know this not to be so.  Rather, my docking wisdom is like all my
wisdom and life experiences - that which is left over after all the mistakes
have been made!  Even with crew aboard, I expect and receive no help.  While
my docking skills increase with each successful docking, the downside is
that no one else, including the Best Mate, has any experience in getting the
boat into the slip.  I can only pray that this does not come back to haunt
me someday.

-----Original Message-----
From: c320-list-bounces at catalina320.com
[mailto:c320-list-bounces at catalina320.com] On Behalf Of Randy Averill
Sent: Monday, October 29, 2007 10:42 PM
To: 'C320-List'
Subject: [C320-list] Backing into slip

Another new owner question.

I've had my 320 for less than a month and my biggest problem right now is
parking.  My previous boat was much smaller and lighter, and I learned to
maneuver it into the slip rather easily with its outboard motor and tiller.
Now I would greatly appreciate the voice of experience helping me out.

I approached my first couple times into the new slip with the 320 with great
caution.  This boat can coast a long way and I can't afford to overshoot my
slip (I'm at the end of the runway) so I slowed to a crawl.  I used a "Y"
approach in that I came forward down the runway to my slip, turned hard to
port (away from the slip), and then backed in after completing a 90 degree
turn to port.  I actually parked fairly well, but it took forever because I
was going so slowly.

Last time out was my first problem because there was some wind blowing me
into the dock.  I think if I came in faster the wind would have less effect
(i.e., it would have less time to blow me around), but I don't know how fast
is too fast.  Does anybody have a rule of thumb you could offer?  If you're
coming in a idle, how early do you put your transmission in neutral?  How
much time to stop the boat with reverse?  Any good way to get a better feel
for this on open water?  I'm not sure I trust my ability to transfer the
open water experience to the marina because it's so tight.  Any good stories
to make me laugh and relax?


Randy Averill
Tesoro (#29)