[C320-list] Fuel filter bleeding

[Crosby Roper]

Just wanted to thank everyone for input on fule filter change. Did it this w/e and went off flawlessly with minimal ( but not no) mess. Once bled, the engine started on the second attemp and ran great. Thaks for all the helpfu advice,
 
Crosby Roper VMD
Tethys # 1054



> From: WindSwept at stx.rr.com> To: c320-list at catalina320.com> Date: Sun, 2 Sep 2007 08:13:01 -0500> Subject: Re: [C320-list] Fuel filter bleeding> > One other suggestion. Sometimes the clear plastic bowl can be difficult to> remove from the filter. I keep a second spare clear plastic bowl assembled> to a filter so if I need to change a filter in a hurry I can do it faster.> > Larry> > > -----Original Message-----> From: c320-list-bounces at catalina320.org> [mailto:c320-list-bounces at catalina320.com] On Behalf Of Scott Thompson> Sent: Friday, August 31, 2007 8:49 AM> To: C320-List> Subject: Re: [C320-list] Fuel filter bleeding> > All excellent advice. In steps 2 and 3 I find it very handy to use an > oil filter wrench of some sort on the Racor cartridge.> > The Racor filter element should come with a new gasket. I forget if it > also includes a new O-ring for the bowl. When you are removing the > filter element from the Racor in step 2, pay careful attention to the > orientation of the gasket on top. It has a top and a bottom and is not > symmetrical. If you reinstall the new one upside down then it will > leak. By looking at the old one when you remove it you can learn which > is the top. I need to write this down in my service notes, but somehow > never have.> > At the beginning of step 9, do not start the engine while the bleed > screws are still open. They need to be closed first.> > I usually replace the Yanmar secondary filter on the engine at the same > time as the Racor. It's cheap and I'm bleeding the system anyway, so > why not. You have to pump more fuel during the bleeding process this > way, but with the little pump on the Racor that's easy. Plus the > lifting and tapping in step 6 seems to be unnecessary when you do both > at once.> > > Jeffrey Hare wrote:> > Hi Crosby,> > > > If the clear bowl does not have any water or sediment, then there's simply> > no reason to bleed it from the bottom of the filter. That's just how you> > drain excess water from the separator should it collect any. And if you> are> > just draining the water/sediment from the bowl, you want to leave the fuel> > tank stopcock open. Then there will be no need to bleed anything after> > doing this, as you've not introduced any air into the system.> > > > When changing the Racor filter, that's a different story. You should do> > this with a full fuel tank so that you have an easier time with the> bleeding> > process.> > > > 1) In this case, you would shut off the fuel tank stopcock.> > > > 2) Unscrew the Racor filter (leaving the plastic bowl in place at this> > point). Many people use large ziplock bags slipped up around the filter> to> > keep any diesel from spilling into the bilge.> > > > 3) Unscrew the bowl from the bottom of the Racor, clean it and put it back> > on the new filter, reinstall the new one not too tight.> > > > 4) Reopen the fuel stopcock.> > > > 5) Loosen the flat white plastic cap flush on the top of the filter and> this> > should allow fuel to free-flow and fill the filter and bowl. When you get> > clean fuel with no bubbles out of the top of the filter vent, tighten the> > cap up and move on to the next step. (replacing the engine mounted> filter,> > or just bleeding the line)> > > > 6) On the top of the engine-mounted fuel filter, there should be a bleed> > screw. If done properly, this should be the only other place you need to> > bleed air from. I suggest following the fuel hose from the Racor and> > lifting it and tapping on it to move any bubbles that may be in the line> to> > work their way up to the secondary filter on the engine. > > > > 7) Once you're pretty sure any major bubbles have moved along, loosen the> > bleed screw on the top of the engine mounted filter, and slip a ziplock> bag> > around it.> > > > 8) There is a white plastic knob on the top of the Racor. It is a manual> > fuel pump and works much better than the fuel lifter lever on the engine.> > Unscrew this and gently/slowly pump this until you get no bubbles out of> the> > engine filter's bleed screw.> > > > 9) Run the engine for at least 15 minutes and if possible put it in gear> > after the engine is warm. If it stalls, then you didn't get all the air> out> > and you'll likely need to bleed one more place (but not at the injectors).> > Find the high pressure fuel pump where the thin metal fuel tubes exit to> > feed the injectors. This unit has a bleed screw and just loosening this> > screw should vent the remaining air. You could try pumping the racor pump> > again to be sure you get just fuel, no bubbles or foam.> > > > There are more clearly written procedures for this elsewhere, but I didn't> > have them on hand.> > > > By the way, You should be using an R15S filter 2 micron (not an R15P) for> > both the Racor and the engine mounted filter. That's what the Yanmar> Techs> > and our local Yanmar Dealer/installer recommend. It's just silly to use a> > fine engine mounted filter preceeded by a 10, 15 or 20 micron filter on> the> > Racor, because now you're practically guaranteed to need to change both> > filters every time you change a clogged or dirty Racor.> > > > The engine mounted filter is really just a trap for anything that gets by> > the racor during filter changes.> > > > -Jeff H.> > > > -----Original Message-----> > From: c320-list-bounces at catalina320.org> > [mailto:c320-list-bounces at catalina320.com] On Behalf Of Crosby Roper> > Sent: Thursday, August 30, 2007 12:56 PM> > To: c320-list at catalina320.org> > Subject: [C320-list] Fuel filter bleeding> > > > Hi all,> > > > I need some advice on bleeding the primary fule filter (Racor RP15) on my> > yanmar Y3M30. The clear jar at the bottom does not reveal any water or> > sediment, but I have not done it before and it's well overdue. Two basic> > questions> > > > 1) Do I leave the stopcock from the fuel tank open or closed when bleeding> > from the bottom of the filter?> > > > 2) Will I need to bleed air from the system after I do this, and if so can> I> > stop bleeding at the secondary filter or do I need to bleed all the way to> > the injectors.> > > > Any advice is appreciated (unless its bad....)> > > > > > Crosby Roper> > Tehtys Hull # 1504> > _________________________________________________________________> > Explore the seven wonders of the world> > http://search.msn.com/results.aspx?q=7+wonders+world&mkt=en-US&form=QBRE> > > > > > > 
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