[C320-list] Third H20 tank frame

[Jeff Hare]

Ah.. ok, so perhaps it is a type of gelcoat after all.  There might have
been a discussion a while back about this with some response from Gerry that
I didn't pay a lot of attention to.

I had asked Frank about the problem of the insides of some lockers being
tacky in places when we first got the boat and he said something about some
batches of the bilge paint not curing fully and had some solution that I
don't recall anymore.  

In any event, it does come off in chunks and isn't a structural bond, so I
guess that's what the real issue was about anyway.

-Jeff




-----Original Message-----
From: c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com
[mailto:c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com] On Behalf Of Hansen, Brian
Sent: Thursday, April 03, 2008 5:22 PM
To: C320-List at Catalina320.com
Subject: Re: [C320-list] Third H20 tank frame


In Australia that surface material is named Flowcoat and it's essentially
gelcoat with wax and styrene added. When the Flowcoat cures the wax &
styrene should come to the surface to give a dry hard surface.

Because the wax & styrene comes to the surface it makes it very important to
sand or grind the surface well if you want to adhere something to it.

Brian
 

-----Original Message-----
From: c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com
[mailto:c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com] On Behalf Of Jeff Hare
Sent: Friday, 4 April 2008 3:46 AM
To: C320-List at Catalina320.com
Subject: Re: [C320-list] Third H20 tank frame

They don't gelcoat the inside of the hull. 

It's bilge paint which goes on really thick to smooth off and protect the
fiberglass inside the hull.  And you're right, it frequently doesn't cure
all that well because it has a tendency to stick to anything in contact with
it for long.  There was another thread on that sometime back.  But in my
case, the area was well cured but still isn't a structural sound bond.  It's
cosmetic/protective.

-Jeff

-----Original Message-----
From: c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com
[mailto:c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com] On Behalf Of Chris Burti
Sent: Thursday, April 03, 2008 12:31 PM
To: C320-List at catalina320.com
Subject: Re: [C320-list] Third H20 tank frame

ummmm that ain't paint...it is actually some sort of gelcoat
formulation...if it is cured it won't come off. That said...sanding is
always a good idea.

On Thu, Apr 3, 2008 at 10:26 AM, Jeff Hare <catalina at thehares.com> wrote:

> Bob,
>
> The reason you need to remove the paint is because the paint doesn't have
> a
> good bond with the fiberglass underneath.
>
> In one instance, I epoxy'd a board to the hull.  That board broke free
> after
> a while.  The separation happened between the paint and the fiberglass,
> not
> between the epoxy and the paint.
>
> Given the weight of the water tank with sloshing water, I'd want to grind
> off the paint first.
>
> If I were doing that, I'd use a good hardwood that won't rot like IPE and
> will hold fasteners for life without having to be glassed in.
>
> -Jeff
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com
> [mailto:c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com] On Behalf Of Robert
> Seastream
> Sent: Thursday, April 03, 2008 7:55 AM
> To: C320-List at Catalina320.com
> Subject: [C320-list] Third H20 tank frame
>
> Bruce Stanley fiberglassed in his tank frame (the 2X2 lumber strips),
> as 3M 5200 was unavailable to him.  He sanded the paint off the hull
> interior to ensure a good 'glass set.
> I'm using 5200.  Need I sand the paint off as he did, or just clean
> and lightly sand the painted surface?  Also, may 2X4 strips be used
> instead?
>
> Bob Seastream
> Intuition # 906
>
>


-- 
Chris Burti
Farmville, NC

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