[C320-list] Lewmar side port Seal install

Joe Abbagnaro jabbagna at gmail.com
Fri Apr 18 09:32:10 PDT 2008


No I have no Rebed the hatch.
That sounds like it might be easier than the seals.
Do u remove the entire hatch to rebed or just reseal around the top ?
Joe
#574


On Fri, Apr 18, 2008 at 9:34 AM, Pat Moriarty <patm at psiurethanes.com> wrote:
> Have you rebed the hatch yet?
>
>
>
>  At 08:11 AM 4/18/2008, you wrote:
>
> > I already tried the easy fix by replacing the  O rings so now I will
> > try the hatch seals
> > with some of the tips here. Did the new seals appear to be much
> > larger, making it harder
> > to close the hatch ?
> >
> > Joe
> > #574
> >
> > On Thu, Apr 17, 2008 at 6:45 PM, Chris J.Manges <cjmanges at earthlink.net>
> wrote:
> > > I just replaced all four. The first trick is to be sure all of the old
> sealant is removed. To do that, I used a very small flat screw driver to
> scrape the track (lightly). If you don't remove ALL of the old sealant, the
> new seal will not seat. The second trick to dry fit the new seal is to use a
> small plastic scraper with the sharp edge sanded off, or a fairly thick
> feeler guage to persuade the dovetail portion into the track. Start with one
> of the flat surfaces and work your way around the entire portlight. Once you
> have a good dry fit, remove the gasket and put a SMALL bead of silicone into
> the track. Once the silicone is in place, repeat the installation process.
> (The dovetail will go in somewhat easier since the silicone sealant acts as
> a lube before it sets. However, I would not skip the dry fit process, as it
> is a real mess to go back if you don't get a good fit.) Once installed,
> close the hatch, dog down the latches, and leave them closed for a week
> until the silicone firms up. It will take a longer than the normal time to
> set up since the silicone is not exposed to air. As a reference, it took me
> almost 7 hours to complete all four forward portlights.
> > >
> > >  One other suggestion-some of my leaks were actually around the latches,
> not between the acrylic and the port seal. If you have the old style
> latches, (dog ear, turns to latch), there is an "O" ring that dries out and
> allows water to enter past the shaft of the latch. These are metric "O"
> rings, and I believe they are 2mm thickness by 12mm diameter. You will need
> to pry out the cover (small, thin knife blade) and unscrew the phillips head
> screw to remove the old "O" ring. (Be sure the portlight is open to keep the
> outer part from falling onto the deck.) Replace, and lube the new "O" ring,
> and reassemble. You might try this first, as it is much simpler than
> replacing the portlight seal in the frame.
> > >
> > >  Good luck,
> > >
> > >  Chris Manges, S/V Obsession #587
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >  -----Original Message-----
> > >  >From: Joe Abbagnaro <jabbagna at gmail.com>
> > >  >Sent: Apr 17, 2008 1:01 PM
> > >  >To: C320-List at catalina320.com
> > >  >Subject: [C320-list] Lewmar side port Seal install
> > >  >
> > >  >Any tricks for installing the new Side port lewmar seals.
> > >  >The seals appear to be much thicker than the old seals ?
> > >  >I am having trouble getting them to snap into the slot.
> > >  >
> > >  >Appreciate all help……
> > >  >
> > >  >Thank You
> > >  >Joe
> > >
> > >
> >
>
>
>  Pat Moriarty
>  PSI Urethanes Inc
>  PH: 800-888-5156  Fax: 512-837-8733
>  Please visit our web site at
>  www.psiurethanes.com
>
>
>



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