[C320-list] DOWN: Windlass, ST 60s, ST4000+...UP:~12 V in rail...

[Scott Thompson]

I just looked carefully at the wiring diagram for my somewhat older 
boat.  I'll bet the wire in question is either the wire from battery 1 
to the bilge pump breaker on the electrical panel, or one of the wires 
from batteries to electrical panel volt meter.  All of these must be 
routed from the back of the battery selector switch to the electrical 
panel, and would be live even with the selector switch on NONE.

Scott Thompson
Surprise, 653


Chris Burti wrote:
> A few more thoughts:
> Cut a 4" square out of a milk bottle and slip it over the wire bundle to see
> if it gets your stray voltage to zero.
> 
> The bare wire that caused your short is still bare. If you don't repair it,
> corrosion will make the wire fail sooner or later. Figure out how to label,
> disconnect and pull the wire bundle far enough to get access for a proper
> repair.
> 
> On my speed instrument, I have to struggle to get the impeller seated
> tightly enough to get a good reading. It seems as if there is about a 1mm
> critical difference on mine. it can be seated tight and no leakage and no
> reading. I pull it to make sure the impeller is not fouled(and pointing int
> the correct direction) replace and still no go. then push hard on the
> insert, tighten the ring...no go..repeat and it will finally read. The most
> annoying thing about this process is that I have to do it every time we
> return to the boat as the impeller will foul in a week in the summer here if
> I don't pull it. The second most annoying thing is this is the only source
> of water in my otherwise dry bilge.
> 
> Speed and wind instruments are interdependent. If your speed impeller is not
> reading correctly, your wind can't calculate actual from apparent. If the
> impeller is not working and the SeaTalk cable between the two is not
> properly connected,neither will appear to work.
> 
> Don't forget to check the grub screw at the top of the mast on the wind
> sending unit.
> 
> On Fri, Jul 11, 2008 at 8:17 PM, Chris Willems <inquire at snet.net> wrote:
> 
>> So you're not going to believe this...
>>
>> I disconnected the stern pulpit from the safety lines
>> today.  No current in stern pulpit.  Moved forward,
>> still in starboard lines and bow pulpit.  Disconnected
>> bow pulpit on starboard side, still charged...
>>
>> Disconnected port side safety lines - NO POWER IN
>> PULPIT!!! hmmm... moved astern and found the port side
>> stanchion, the one just forward of the cockpit (with
>> the brace, welded so it looks like an "h") was live.
>>
>> First attempt was to see how I could get at it.  Went
>> through cockpit locker - on go.  Went through aft
>> galley cabinet and was able to feel up to wires.
>> Tried to unscrew stanchion screws - this was a
>> mistake.  The after one will not tighten back down,
>> and I can't find/feel a nut below.  Perhaps this was
>> the live one, and it corroded the baseplate?  What are
>> the baseplates made of?
>>
>> So I gently moved wires from near the base of the
>> stanchion, clipped one zip tie to loosen the mass a
>> bit... and the readings dropped from near 12V to
>> 0.19V... what do you think about this?
>>
>> Now here's the bad news... Lisa and I are going to be
>> away for the boat for the next week...  There will be
>> a pause in my DIY boat improvement drama (a collective
>> phew was heard!).  I will check email and take dutiful
>> notes as to what my next steps will be.  I feel we're
>> getting close to solving these electrical problems:
>>
>> Windlass - CHECK
>> Autohelm - @ Raytheon, being "reprogrammed" with new
>> software.
>>
>> To Do:
>> ST60 speed & ST60 wind - TBD
>> Get last of electricity (0.19V) out of rails.
>>
>> Thanks so much for your help!
>>
>> Chris Willems, "Chrysalis" #828
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> more thoughts:
>>
>> On my boat the only circuit active when the battery
>> switch is on NONE
>> is the automatic bilge pump, which is wired to bypass
>> the battery
>> selector.  It does go through a breaker on the panel,
>> however.  You
>> might shut off the breaker to see if it makes a
>> difference.  The bilge
>> pump float switch, being located in the bilge, has all
>> kinds of
>> potential for causing stray current leaks, especially
>> if the bilge is damp.
>>
>> Think about disconnecting each battery at the battery
>> terminals as the
>> ultimate way to isolate sources.
>>
>> The pulpits may be bonded to ground somehow.  If both
>> pulpits are
>> energized even when the lifelines are disconnected
>> then the problem is
>> likely related to a common ground for the pulpits that
>> is not
>> sufficiently well bonded to battery ground and is
>> somehow getting a
>> stray current.
>>
>> Scott
>>
> 
> 
>