[C320-list] Mystery

[Pat Moriarty]

That is what a floating ground is. It is looking for a route to 
complete the connection. Happens in cars all the time, the blinker 
works but the brake light doesn't or they both work because the 
second bulb is suppling the ground for the first. I figure he was 
getting the ground through something that pulled more amps than the 
breaker would handle but that after it started it got it's ground 
back. Electricity can play many funny and frustrating tricks on you 
looking for ground. I hope he gets it fixed.
The floating ground was not a BS or tongue in cheek it was a serious comment.


Pat #130


At 03:59 PM 7/17/2008, you wrote:
>If the ground wire was knocked loose, the pump would not function on either
>power leg...period. I think that 'floating ground' comment (not mine) was
>just tongue in cheek.
>
>The culprit is most likely the wire that runs from the float switch to the
>pump. If that were shorted, it would throw the breaker when the float switch
>is activated, but not affect the breaker when the other leg from the manual
>switch is activated.
>On Thu, Jul 17, 2008 at 3:36 PM, <hcreech at comcast.net> wrote:
>
> > Chris,
> > Are you talking about the ground wire that is hooked to the pump itself?  I
> > guess being under the settee it could have been knocked loose when I was
> > puting stuff in the area.  Going to the Eastern Shore this weekend on a FOP
> > cruise, I'll check it out and let you know what I found.
> > Thanks, for your suggestions.
> >
> > Herb Creech
> >
> >  -------------- Original message ----------------------
> > From: "Chris Burti" <clburti at gmail.com>
> > > You likely have a short circuit.
> > >
> > > There are two somewhat separate circuits that can operate your pump and
> > the
> > > following is how mine is wired, if not literally, at least electrically.
> > >
> > > One ground wire to the pump, common to both, so that is not the likely
> > > culprit.
> > >
> > > One hot wire from the distribution panel bus to the breaker to the switch
> > > and then from the switch's manual pole to the pump creating a switched
> > > circuit for manual operation, again based on your symptoms, not a likely
> > > culprit.
> > >
> > > A second hot wire from the 'Auto' pole (bypassing the switch itself) to
> > the
> > > float switch and then to the pump. This stays hot at all times the
> > breaker
> > > is on powering the pump whenever water rises in the bilge. Since the
> > breaker
> > > in your case throws only when the float switch operated, the short is
> > most
> > > likely in the float switch or in the wire between the switch and the pump
> > > (my bet is on the wire or connections).
> > >
> > > I'd guess the battery change may be more coincidental than causal.
> > >
> > > On Thu, Jul 17, 2008 at 11:40 AM, <hcreech at comcast.net> wrote:
> > >
> > > > OK, I need to solicit the aid of those on the list that send out posts
> > > > regarding electrical problems.  You know who you are, the one's that
> > send
> > > > out posts that I, and I suspect, very few on the list understands.
> > > > Here is my mystery:  coincidental to the replacement of one of my
> > > > batteries, the circuit breaker that controls the bilge pump tripped
> > when
> > > > ever the float switch activated.  I could reset the breaker and turn
> > the
> > > > switch on and the pump would work fine, but again every time the float
> > > > switch activated in the auto position the breaker would trip again.  I
> > > > assumed, wrongly, that the float switch itself was the culprit, and I
> > > > replaced it.  No good, still trips.  Therefore I am at a loss to figure
> > out
> > > > what is the exact cause.
> > > > This is why I need your help, as I said, you know who you are!
> > > >
> > > > Sincerely,
> > > > Herb Creech
> > > > Cloud Chaser #606
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > --
> > > Chris Burti
> > > Farmville, NC
> >
> >
>
>
>--
>Chris Burti
>Farmville, NC

Pat Moriarty
PSI Urethanes Inc
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