[C320-list] removing steering wheel

Monte B. mjbc60 at sbcglobal.net
Thu Jul 24 16:35:02 PDT 2008


Gang,

 When I set out to do the shaft alignment on my boat I did so with computer
and procedure in hand. With no disrespect toward the author of the website
procedure, I quickly decided that after all the measuring and calculating a
lunar insertion was still not possible. If daunted by the complex on
occasion throw it out. The essence is concentric shaft to shaft centerline
alignment and parallel face to face alignment of the coupler. As these boats
age the natural tendency is for rubber mounts to settle, thus engine shaft
centerline below prop shaft centerline. To kill two birds with one stone,
take a feeler guage set and measure the top, sides, and bottom face
clearances and write them down. Rotate coupler 180" and do it again. If the
difference is substantial, call the mechanic. If the readings are the same
or close (.001" or .002") now you are ready to turn big nuts. Feel the
perimeter of the engine flange and the prop coupler flange. They should
align and with an older boat they probably don't because of mount sag. If
they don't you have to raise everything and align the coupler face at the
same time. All big nuts go up, some more than others. If the gap is bigger
at the top raise the front of the engine more, and vice versa. If there is a
substantial difference left or right the mount bases must be moved and if
you aren't confident in this procedure again call the mechanic. The book
(here's to you O.D.) calls for no more than .003" coupler face misalignment
so none is the goal and .003" is the max. This is not rocket science but you
need the proper tools and a little sober time. As I stated earlier, if this
doesn't do it look at the cutlass bearing as I have yet to figure out how to
bend the shaft without breaking the rudder or stalling it with a wrapped
line. I know this is wordy and I would put it on the website but nobody
seems to read it but the nonpayers and the new guys. No disrespect to the
new guys. (disclaimer delivered)

Monte Laima #620
	

-----Original Message-----
From: c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com
[mailto:c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com] On Behalf Of
bruceheyman at cox.net
Sent: Thursday, July 24, 2008 4:37 PM
To: C320-List at Catalina320.com
Subject: Re: [C320-list] removing steering wheel

One thing I noticed when aligning ours was that the prop shaft was no where
near the center of the log.  We ended up raising the engine quite a bit to
get the shaft closer to the center which should allow the engine to jump
around a bit more before whipping the shaft into the log and making all that
racket.
We replaced our cutlass a couple of years ago and probably should have
aligned the shaft as soon as we got the boat to CA.  My understanding is
that out of alignment and poor balance are what cause a cuttlas bearing to
wear out very quickly.
Bruce
Somerset 671 SoCal
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

-----Original Message-----
From: "Monte B." <mjbc60 at sbcglobal.net>

Date: Thu, 24 Jul 2008 15:25:28 
To: <C320-List at Catalina320.com>
Subject: Re: [C320-list] removing steering wheel


Wayne,

Have a close hull # (620) and also had vibration and noise problems that
seemed to come on slowly. Think bad shock absorbers on an automobile. I did
the engine alignment and the noise remained but the RPM changed. Replaced
the cutlass bearing for the prop shaft and VOILA, no vibration or shaft
noise. My tach reads about 675 hrs., a lot of which is battery charging so
if the alignment doesn't do it pull the boat and check the shaft bearing. A
little play goes a long way. 

Monte
-----Original Message-----
From: c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com
[mailto:c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com] On Behalf Of
Orlando.Duran at AveryDennison.com
Sent: Thursday, July 24, 2008 9:46 AM
To: C320-List at Catalina320.com
Subject: Re: [C320-list] removing steering wheel

Did you and Di toast your excellent work with some Pusser's rum?  :)


                                                                          
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                                      Re: [C320-list] removing steering   
             07/24/2008 07:40         wheel                               
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Wayne,
Or boat seemed to be a bit loud and vibrated a lot at 2800 rpm.  We used the
process prescribed by an article posted on the 320 Association web site to
align the prop shaft and motor.  I'm embarrassed to say the amount of time
it took Di and I to do this job was no where near the half hour for
measurement and half hour for calculations that the article claims but; when
we took the boat out for a sail/motor last Sunday what a treat.
The drive train was significantly quieter and smother, even at 3000 rpm.
Job worth doing if you've never done it or had it done.
Bruce
Somerset 671 SoCal
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

-----Original Message-----
From: Wayne <nadowayne at yahoo.com>

Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2008 22:30:05
To: C320-List at Catalina320.com<C320-List at Catalina320.com>
Cc: <C320-List at Catalina320.com><C320-List at Catalina320.com>
Subject: Re: [C320-list] removing steering wheel


Dick,

Thanks for the idea on wheel storage.  I'll pick it up at West Marine
tomorrow.

I think Summer Place from Coronado Yacht Club, uses the same wheel kit and
usually backs his boat into the slip and enters from the stern.  He has his
wheel off  until he heads for Catalina Island.

I've had my boat for one month and encountered vibraton noise at high RPM.
It was louder than expected at 3,000 RPM.   Has anyone else noticed this
and is it normal?

I have enjoyed reading all the info on Honda 2000 generators, I have a Honda
1,000 that I used on my Cat 30T and it has worked well, except powering the
microwave.

I read your article about never using both batteries.  Why doesn't everyone
consider getting a starting battery and use the other two for house only?  I
think this would be a good upgrade for new 320's.  Seems like a better
option to me.

I enjoy being a new Cat 320 owner &
being part of the Cat 320 association.

Sailed tonight and the Cat 320  sails pretty fast in the beer can races too.
Thank you all for your ideas.

Wayne Strickland
Hull number 594 - 1999 C320
Wayne's World


On Jul 23, 2008, at 5:09 PM, "Richard A. Walker" <dickwalker at att.net>
wrote:

For the past 9 years I have used the EDSON steering wheel kit.  This
contains a large knob that replaced the existing one and a holder for the
wheel to place it on the rail.

This has worked great.  Allows for much more room when on the anchor or at a
buoy.  I do back up the holder with a line so if it were to fail the wheel
would not deep six.

Highly recommended cruising gear.

EDSION Straight Hub Quick Nut Combo 680-1-14   $164.90 at WM  You save
about
$40 with the package.



Cheers,

Dick Walker
C-320 (687) WindWalker II
740 Olive Ave.
Coronado, CA 92118-2136
619.435.8986

-----Original Message-----
From: c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com
[mailto:c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com] On Behalf Of Gates
Sent: Wednesday, July 23, 2008 4:33 PM
To: C320-List at Catalina320.com
Subject: Re: [C320-list] removing steering wheel

Holly,
No problem removing the wheel.  Just unscrew the center bolt and unplug the
wheel pilot motor.  Be careful not to lose the shim and the gasket behind
the bolt.  When you replace the wheel, you will need to spin the wheel pilot

belt housing to line up the horizontal post arm with the hole in the belt
housing.
The wheel brake is the 3" or so black wheel on the starboard side of the
binacle -- many of us lock the wheel amidships when at anchor, dock, or
mooring.  Welcome to the group.  Rollie  #182
----- Original Message -----
From: "HOLLY DAVIS" <hdavis787 at hotmail.com>
To: <c320-list at lists.catalina320.com>
Sent: Wednesday, July 23, 2008 7:03 PM
Subject: [C320-list] removing steering wheel



Hello
Can I remove the wheel with out messing up the Auto pilot?  It's really in

the way getting to that nice walk thru transom and into the ocean!    Also

what is the wheel brake I've been reading about and where is it?  I am the

new owner of a 1995 320.
Holly  hull 261
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