[C320-list] Insurance Survey Results

[bruceheyman at cox.net]

I thought the AC and DC systems are supposed to share a single common ground point, typically at the motor on most vessels.
Bruce
Somerset 671 SoCal
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

-----Original Message-----
From: Paul Rickman <ilove2sail at verizon.net>
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 2009 07:03:15 
To: <C320-List at Catalina320.com>
Subject: Re: [C320-list] Insurance Survey Results

Jon,

In my last servey, a recommendation was made to run a ground wire between the DC and the
AC systems. Supposed to be the new standard. Do you or anyone else know anything 
about this? What size wire should be used -- #10?

Paul
Affinity 657
Bay Bridge Marina

 



________________________________
From: Jon Vez <jonvez at comcast.net>
To: C320-List at Catalina320.com
Sent: Thu, November 19, 2009 9:32:19 AM
Subject: [C320-list] Insurance Survey Results

Hi All,



I apologize in advance for the length of this post--



I just had an insurance survey done last week for my '99, which I bought new
and has just finished its 11th season. I thought I'd share some of the
feedback I received as it touches on some of the topics that have been
posted recently (strut, bottom painting/blistering, poor dewaxing techniques
by the dealer, Mr. Hare's comments on charging) and has reinforced that my
maintenance approach is on the mark (for me anyway).



First, the surveyor's background: This is a coincidence, as I simply googled
local surveyors and looked into reviews etc. He has over 30 years of
experience and has been a full time surveyor since '87. He has surveyed over
200 Catalinas and owned 2 (a 30 and a 34). I could tell as he knew the boat
(and Frank/Gerry) well. He is a big fan of Catalina and the 320 in
particular. He said it angers him when people lump the Catalina in with the
two other major production models because in his opinion there is no
comparison in terms of value. But we already knew that J



Bottom/hull & Deck---The hull was sounded and moisture tested. No sign of
blistering or delamination. He noted that the reason my paint isn't adhering
in spots is because the dealer did a lousy job of dewaxing the hull-I knew
this. (Allan, I thought it was only the dealer here in NE area who had this
problem, but based on your recent post, I guess it's more prevalent). We
discussed my options and he agreed that the 'fix' might be worse than my
current approach, which is to dewax using an Interlux 303 solvent wherever
bare hull shows until the bottom is eventually capable of holding paint.
Over the years, I have fewer and fewer of these bare spots and the paint
stays on while in the water, it's only during pressure washing that it comes
off. I looked into *Soda Blasting* a couple of years ago, but passed
because, even with soda you run the risk of pocking the bottom-it really
depends on the skill level of the blaster. I had a guy do a spot test on a
corner of my keel, and wasn't comfortable with the results. Surveyor agreed
with this.



Strut-While evaluating the condition of my strut, he suggested the solution
many of you have recently posted. Mine is in good shape and isn't loose in
any way. He volunteered that I may want to grind notch around the strut and
*Marine Tex* it as more of a preventative measure. When he inspected the
bolts holding the strut later in the survey, he confirmed that the more
radical fix of removing/rebedding was not necessary in my case. He said the
way you can tell is if you see any signs of weeping around these bolts-I
have a model with the bolts exposed and have kept an eye on them over time.
He was aware of Catalina's recommendation for the more thorough fix and
agreed it was the way to go if there are any signs of weeping or a strut
that is not bar tight.



Standing Rigging-Not only is my standing rigging and all stainless in good
shape, he said it showed as new. No rusting, weeping, swage cracks etc. I
was encouraged in that he spent a lot of time on the rigging. I was curious
about this part of the survey for not only the obvious reasons (stick
staying upright), but also because of some of the recent posts on fresh vs
salt. Obviously salt water is a harsher environment than fresh, but my SS
showed no worse for the wear. It should be noted that I keep my boat in the
water for two seasons and haul every third on average.



Gelcoat and hull-all I can say about this is *Collinite Paste wax* .excerpt
from the written survey, *..this vessel has had beyond belief care and shows
as a new boat throughout* He couldn't believe that I waxed with no abrasive
once a season to get the results I have.



Batteries-2003 AGM's and starting battery, installed in 2003. Although I
leave my charger on all the time, the surveyor *concurred with Jeff Hare's
recent Post about this being a bad idea*. Nevertheless, he was amazed at the
health of the batteries and felt AGM's were a great choice.



Obviously I'm thrilled with the survey and hope some of this may be helpful
to others. Below are some of the specifics for my approach:

----------------------------------

Ablative Bottom Paint-Micron Extra. One gallon and one quart every other
season. I scuff the bottom with scotchbrite pads and use a tack cloth

Rigging-I use WD40 around all swages and turning blocks in the fall and
McLube in the Spring. Most importantly, I religiously wash the boat down
with fresh water after every sail and every other week if I haven't been out
during the season.

In the spring I clean the hull with boat soap (concentrated) and remove any
black stains with Black streak remover. I also use *Collinite's Fiberglass
Cleaner* for the waterline

Cockpit sole-he thought I had just refinished them-I told him they were
original, but on my list to do. He said they looked brand new-using
carpeting and cleaning with damp cloth (hot water with a very little
vinegar) has done a great job for me.



The engine, electrical and plumbing all came back with similar findings, but
I'll stop here.



Regards,



Jon Vez

Solstice #582