[C320-list] Insurance Survey Results

[Dave Anderer]

I read that in Calder a few years ago and did it.  Just used something
around #10 IIRC.

On Thu, Nov 19, 2009 at 10:03 AM, Paul Rickman <ilove2sail at verizon.net>wrote:

> Jon,
>
> In my last servey, a recommendation was made to run a ground wire between
> the DC and the
> AC systems. Supposed to be the new standard. Do you or anyone else know
> anything
> about this? What size wire should be used -- #10?
>
> Paul
> Affinity 657
> Bay Bridge Marina
>
>
>
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: Jon Vez <jonvez at comcast.net>
> To: C320-List at Catalina320.com
> Sent: Thu, November 19, 2009 9:32:19 AM
> Subject: [C320-list] Insurance Survey Results
>
> Hi All,
>
>
>
> I apologize in advance for the length of this post--
>
>
>
> I just had an insurance survey done last week for my '99, which I bought
> new
> and has just finished its 11th season. I thought I'd share some of the
> feedback I received as it touches on some of the topics that have been
> posted recently (strut, bottom painting/blistering, poor dewaxing
> techniques
> by the dealer, Mr. Hare's comments on charging) and has reinforced that my
> maintenance approach is on the mark (for me anyway).
>
>
>
> First, the surveyor's background: This is a coincidence, as I simply
> googled
> local surveyors and looked into reviews etc. He has over 30 years of
> experience and has been a full time surveyor since '87. He has surveyed
> over
> 200 Catalinas and owned 2 (a 30 and a 34). I could tell as he knew the boat
> (and Frank/Gerry) well. He is a big fan of Catalina and the 320 in
> particular. He said it angers him when people lump the Catalina in with the
> two other major production models because in his opinion there is no
> comparison in terms of value. But we already knew that J
>
>
>
> Bottom/hull & Deck---The hull was sounded and moisture tested. No sign of
> blistering or delamination. He noted that the reason my paint isn't
> adhering
> in spots is because the dealer did a lousy job of dewaxing the hull-I knew
> this. (Allan, I thought it was only the dealer here in NE area who had this
> problem, but based on your recent post, I guess it's more prevalent). We
> discussed my options and he agreed that the 'fix' might be worse than my
> current approach, which is to dewax using an Interlux 303 solvent wherever
> bare hull shows until the bottom is eventually capable of holding paint.
> Over the years, I have fewer and fewer of these bare spots and the paint
> stays on while in the water, it's only during pressure washing that it
> comes
> off. I looked into *Soda Blasting* a couple of years ago, but passed
> because, even with soda you run the risk of pocking the bottom-it really
> depends on the skill level of the blaster. I had a guy do a spot test on a
> corner of my keel, and wasn't comfortable with the results. Surveyor agreed
> with this.
>
>
>
> Strut-While evaluating the condition of my strut, he suggested the solution
> many of you have recently posted. Mine is in good shape and isn't loose in
> any way. He volunteered that I may want to grind notch around the strut and
> *Marine Tex* it as more of a preventative measure. When he inspected the
> bolts holding the strut later in the survey, he confirmed that the more
> radical fix of removing/rebedding was not necessary in my case. He said the
> way you can tell is if you see any signs of weeping around these bolts-I
> have a model with the bolts exposed and have kept an eye on them over time.
> He was aware of Catalina's recommendation for the more thorough fix and
> agreed it was the way to go if there are any signs of weeping or a strut
> that is not bar tight.
>
>
>
> Standing Rigging-Not only is my standing rigging and all stainless in good
> shape, he said it showed as new. No rusting, weeping, swage cracks etc. I
> was encouraged in that he spent a lot of time on the rigging. I was curious
> about this part of the survey for not only the obvious reasons (stick
> staying upright), but also because of some of the recent posts on fresh vs
> salt. Obviously salt water is a harsher environment than fresh, but my SS
> showed no worse for the wear. It should be noted that I keep my boat in the
> water for two seasons and haul every third on average.
>
>
>
> Gelcoat and hull-all I can say about this is *Collinite Paste wax* .excerpt
> from the written survey, *..this vessel has had beyond belief care and
> shows
> as a new boat throughout* He couldn't believe that I waxed with no abrasive
> once a season to get the results I have.
>
>
>
> Batteries-2003 AGM's and starting battery, installed in 2003. Although I
> leave my charger on all the time, the surveyor *concurred with Jeff Hare's
> recent Post about this being a bad idea*. Nevertheless, he was amazed at
> the
> health of the batteries and felt AGM's were a great choice.
>
>
>
> Obviously I'm thrilled with the survey and hope some of this may be helpful
> to others. Below are some of the specifics for my approach:
>
> ----------------------------------
>
> Ablative Bottom Paint-Micron Extra. One gallon and one quart every other
> season. I scuff the bottom with scotchbrite pads and use a tack cloth
>
> Rigging-I use WD40 around all swages and turning blocks in the fall and
> McLube in the Spring. Most importantly, I religiously wash the boat down
> with fresh water after every sail and every other week if I haven't been
> out
> during the season.
>
> In the spring I clean the hull with boat soap (concentrated) and remove any
> black stains with Black streak remover. I also use *Collinite's Fiberglass
> Cleaner* for the waterline
>
> Cockpit sole-he thought I had just refinished them-I told him they were
> original, but on my list to do. He said they looked brand new-using
> carpeting and cleaning with damp cloth (hot water with a very little
> vinegar) has done a great job for me.
>
>
>
> The engine, electrical and plumbing all came back with similar findings,
> but
> I'll stop here.
>
>
>
> Regards,
>
>
>
> Jon Vez
>
> Solstice #582
>