[C320-list] Leak on New 320 Mk11.

[P & B Sheerin]

Stephen, Your leak could also be from the base of the exhaust muffler. It 
appears some of these were faulty. Check around base for any evidence of 
water. Peter Sheerin Jarman # 1096
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Stephen Cox" <scox at timmin.com>
To: <C320-List at Catalina320.com>
Sent: Sunday, April 11, 2010 6:57 PM
Subject: Re: [C320-list] Leak on New 320 Mk11.


>> Hi all,
>> I have had a water leak appearing in the bilge since new on
>> hull no.1162.
>> It appears to be salt water and appears even when the boat
>> has been tied up at the marina for a few days with no rain.
>> (definitely not rain water) Have put food dye in both water
>> tanks , and water in the bilge is clear so have eliminated
>> fresh water.
>> The water is first spotted under  the aft. floor  section
>> where the water tank valves are located .It then appears to
>> make its way to the 2 forward sections of the bilge.
>> Initially after 3-5 days it used to only cover the keel bolts
>> but recently has got worse ,now covers 90% of bilge height
>> after 1 week.
>> Have had to turn on auto bilge pump.
>> Water also comes in with sea cocks off. (except engine) Cant
>> see a water path from engine bay or stern land to that
>> section where the water appears.
>> The Catalina Agent has had a couple of shipwrights have a
>> look ,and they fixed other leaks which were there( rainwater
>> related),but this main leak is still there.
>> It has been 12 months now and am seriously considering asking
>> Catalina to take the boat back if they cannot find/fix the leak.
>>
>> Anyone got any ideas?
>>
>
> David,
>
> Water from the stern gland area will flow down past the freshwater valves 
> to
> the bilge, even if you can't quite see how.
>
> My Mk II has always had water issues from the stern gland.  I had it
> adjusted a couple of times after purchase by the dealer but it still
> proceeded to let in water for a few days after running the motor.  I have
> tweaked it myself on several occasions and this summer on haulout I tried
> replacing the packing and doubling it up, but the extra ring was too much
> and I couldn't get the gland screwed back on with enough thread engagement
> without all but locking up the shaft.  IMHO one turn of packing is not
> enough.  So for now I put up with it dripping for some time after running
> the engine.  Next haul out I hope to put a dripless seal in to get around
> this and finally, hopefully, have a dry bilge.
>
> I have a BEP Power Monitor which will monitor current usage on one battery
> and voltage on up to three.  Alternately, the third battery voltage can be
> flipped to keep track of the bilge pump usage.  This reports the number of
> times the bilge pump has run and the total run time since the count was 
> last
> reset - very reassuring when you think you have leakage issues.
>
> BTW, I think you are very brave to not have your automatic bilge pump
> switched on at all times.  I live two hours away from my boat and wouldn't
> like to drive that far after a call from the marina without knowing
> something was trying to keep the boat afloat.  By the way, the obvious 
> fuse
> on the control panel for the bilge pump doesn't do anything, at least on 
> my
> boat, as that fuse is switched by the 1-2-both switch.  As it came, there 
> is
> a line fuse behind the electrical panel and the bilge pump is wired
> effectively direct to battery one, independent of the 1-2-both switch. 
> It's
> a glass fuse not a two pronged spade type - you might want to get some
> spares. I swapped mine out for the common fuse type on the boat so I had
> plenty of others to use if needs be.
>
> Stephen Cox
> Canberra AUSTRALIA
> Tegwen #1141
>
>