[C320-list] Shaft Log Size

[Myron Welch]

Paul,

I talked to the PSS rep at the Strictly Sail show in Chicago.  Since  
they only sell the water injection model now, they sent me the upgrade  
replacement parts for free.  It's worth a try.  Mine unit is also 11  
years old and I will change out the rubber bellows this spring before  
launch.

Myron Welch
Wind Instrument #238
Iowa City, IA


On Apr 14, 2010, at 10:23 AM, Paul Rickman wrote:

> Thinking of changing out the PSS -- it is 11 years old. Two questions.
> Was told this needed to be new every five.
>
> Anyone know the size of the shaft log?
> I assume that all the newer PSS have the water injection?
>
> I was told the water injection is only needed for boats that motor  
> above 6.5 MPH.
> Can anyone confirm this?
>
> Thanks,
> Paul
> Affinity 657
> Bay Bridge Marina
> Chesapeake Bay
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: Jon Vez <jonvez at comcast.net>
> To: C320-List at Catalina320.com
> Sent: Wed, April 14, 2010 7:25:18 AM
> Subject: [C320-list] Engine Pod Upgrade--approach and Parts used....
>
> Some of you have asked about the Engine Pod upgrade for older models  
> (mine
> is a ’99). The new pod is much better built and the instrument face is
> angled so you can see the gauges easier—here are a couple of  
> excerpts from
> responses I have provided. You can also see photos on the 320 web  
> site. When
> I get around to it, I’ll put this into a MS article if there is  
> interest—
>
>
>
>
>
> I’m more than happy to help. Hopefully my experience will make this  
> project
> a bit easier for you than it was for me. Let me start by providing  
> you with
> the items you need to work around and if you have additional  
> questions from
> there, just let me know.
>
>
>
> The biggest thing to be aware of is that the new pod is a smaller  
> footprint
> from a height perspective, but protrudes a bit more than the old  
> one. So
> this means you need to adjust for the pull stop and the wheel:
>
>
>
> --The pull stop issue was the most challenging to deal with. You  
> will have
> to either readjust the entire cable from the engine or raise the  
> pod. I
> chose the latter as I felt it was the easier approach. If you choose  
> this
> route, you will need to extend the tube that has the wire runs  
> coming out
> from the cockpit sole. The way to do this is to get a short piece of
> stainless tubing—you will need about 3”, and a collar to connect the
> original tube to the extension. I bought these from McMaster-Carr.  
> If you
> take this approach, I can provide the exact part numbers. You will  
> also need
> a brass barrel nut for the top of the pull stop (where it comes out  
> of the
> pod)
>
> --For the wheel, I bought a handful of SS shims from M-C of varying
> thickness and placed these to bring the wheel out enough to clear  
> the new
> pod.
>
>
>
> You will also need to purchase a new toggle switch for the blower.  
> Got this
> at WM. Additionally, you will need to replace the two red warning  
> lights.
> You can manage to get the old ones to fit with silicone and a  
> gasket, but I
> tried this and found it was easier to buy a couple from Seaward and  
> they are
> the proper fit.
>
>
>
> Another thing to be aware of depending on whether you have an  
> Autopilot and
> where the lever is located is that if you may have to move it to the  
> port
> side as it will interfere with the top of the pod.
>
>
>
> Finally, there are a couple of wires inside the pod that will need  
> to be
> lengthened a bit. It is very important that you take some pictures  
> of the
> old wiring and print this out. Label the wires on the printout. I  
> was fairly
> sure I knew where the wiring went and that I could refer back to the  
> digital
> camera, but having the hardcopy next to me saved a bunch of time.
>
>
>
> I know this seems like a lot of items, and it is, but it is much  
> easier when
> you know what to expect. Unfortunately I had to be creative as I  
> went along
> and came across these ‘opportunities’…
>
>
>
> This is what I remember off the top of my head, but as I said if you  
> have
> additional questions or need part numbers etc. don’t hesitate to  
> ask…..Good
> luck!
>
>
>
> And the parts list….
>
>
>
> Here are the parts I ordered from McMaster-Carr:
>
>
>
> --1 Silicon Bronze Hex Nut, 7/16”-20 thread size, 11/16” width, 3/8”  
> height.
> M-C part # 93439A646-This is for the pull start. Your new pod will  
> be lower
> and the threads will bottom out, so you attach this on the outside  
> of the
> pull
>
> --1 316 SS Socket weld tube fitting, coupling for 1” tube OD. M-C  
> Part #
> 51255K206
>
> --316 SS smooth bore seamless tubing, 1” OD, .76 ID, .12” wall, 1’  
> length.
> You should get a thinner wall tubing as this was more a pipe than a  
> tube. It
> will make it easier to get all the wiring through it and this one is
> overkill. M-C part #89785K274
>
> --316 SS shim .030” thick, 1” ID, 1.5” OD. M-C part number97022A505  
> 1 pack
>
> --316 SS shim .125” thick, 1” ID, 1.5” OD 1 pack. On these, you get  
> 5 per
> pack. I just played with the right number of shims to get it right.
>
>
>
>> From Seaward:
>
> 2 14V RED Light ½. Part # L120.2. These are the two warning lights
>
>
>
>> From WM:
>
>
>
> Any standard toggle switch with a protective boot
>
>
>
> I think these are all the parts. If you have more questions shoot  
> them over
> and I’ll be glad to help…

Dr. Myron Welch
Director of Bands Emeritus
Professor of Music
Collegiate Fellow, College of Liberal Arts and Sciences
The University of Iowa