[C320-list] raw water...still!

[Chris Burti]

The scoring is your problem, doesn't take much...experience talking here. If
you have a flat cover plate, you can use a flat block of wood and
wet/dry sand  or emory paper to surface the cover plate. Start off with 120
grit to sand out the grooves, then drop to 320 to sand out the sanding
markes and finish with 600 to polish.




On Mon, Jan 18, 2010 at 9:33 AM, james_delong <james_delong at bellsouth.net>wrote:

> Y'all,
>
> My raw water saga continues...and I'm exacerbated enough to replace the
> pump as a final step!
>
> For those who still have interest, this is what I've done.
>
> Sea cock open and clear - strainer clean -  all hoses open.  Disconnected
> the intake hose to the pump and opened the sea cock - good flow to the pump.
>
> Opened and cleaned the heat exchanger. All looks good - hoses clear.
>
> Removed and cleaned the mixing elbow - all clean.
>
> Attached a clear by-pass hose from the heat exchanger output to the mixing
> elbow bypassing the water heater (I think).  Started the engine.  The clear
> hose exiting the heat exchanger had VERY little flow.  Stopped the engine
> and disconnected the heat exchanger input.  Very little water came out.
>
> Conclusion:  good input into the pump - very little out.....must be the
> pump even though I fine no evidence it is bad.  No leaks, rotation seems
> strong.
>
> Focusing on the pump:  impeller and gasket were changed.  The endcap has a
> lot of rotational scoring on the inside.
>
> Questions:  Would this scoring create enough cavitation to restrict the
> flow?  If so should I replace the endcap (even if one can) or the entire
> pump?  What else in the pump could cause limited water flow?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Jim  #453
>



-- 
Chris Burti Farmville, NC