[C320-list] engine start up after winter layup

Robert Seastream robert.seastream at comcast.net
Sun Mar 7 18:29:49 PST 2010


Most (probably not all) impeller replacement kits come with the  
impeller, gasket, and a glycerine lubricant.  The glycerine is  
supplied because it won't react adversely with the rubber impeller, as  
other lubricants (WD40, etc) might, although I guess dish soap might  
be safe.

Regarding fresh water systems, I highly recommend draining the tanks,  
then blowing the lines (and HWH tank) dry with compressed air.   
Disconnect the water pump and run it enough to suck some AF into it.   
Purge the pump with FW in the spring.  All far better than saturating  
the tanks and lines with antifreeze, the taste of which usually won't  
fully depart at end of season.  Not my idea, but it works.  Credit to  
Jeff Hare, resident guru.

Bob Seastream
Intuition # 906


On Mar 7, 2010, at 8:39 PM, Brad Kuether wrote:

> Alan,
>
> OK so lets assume the raw water system is completely dry.  The worse  
> case scenario is that the fins dried and are sticking to the water  
> pump. When you start the engine you may shear off a fin or two and  
> and they take a trip through the heat exchanger.  That is bad.
>
> So to be 100% sure that doesn't happen, I would change the impeller,  
> first, wiping a little bit of dish soap on both sides of the water  
> pump before putting the new impeller in. Close up the water pump  
> (need a new gasket!!!), then just start the engine with the thru  
> hull open  and it should have enough suction to pull in the water.
>
> Now if you determine that there is still anti freeze in the raw  
> water hose, I would just start the engine when you are ready, and  
> change the impeller as one of the last steps.  If it is sitting in  
> anti freeze it probably won't be sticking to the sides.
>
> Be aware that whenever you open up the water pump you need to change  
> the gasket.  So you might as well change the impeller while you are  
> in there.
>
> I used to change  them every year, then starting skipping to every  
> two.  I kept the "yearlings" as spares.
>
> I am facing my first 320 spring commissioning this year as well, but  
> I had a diesel for 15 years and am not too hung up on the engine  
> part.  More worried about how to get all the pink AF out of the  
> fresh water system!  Especially the hot water tank!
>
> Hope that helps,
>
> -Brad, Mary, Monica, and Jarod
> "Independence"
> 2004 Catalina 320 Hull 1006
> Middle River, MD
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Alan Goodman" <goodmanalanlee at hotmail.com 
> >
> To: <c320-list at lists.catalina320.com>
> Sent: Sunday, March 07, 2010 7:16 PM
> Subject: [C320-list] engine start up after winter layup
>
>
>
>
> More silly questions from a newbie.  The boat was purchased already  
> winterized, so the raw water system is dry.  After all I have been  
> reading on this forum, I am aware of the damage that can be done to  
> a dry raw water impeller.  Once I launch the boat, I assume I open  
> the raw water sea cock, maybe open the raw water strainer to bleed  
> out some air ... but how do I get water to the impeller before  
> starting  ... or do I have to remove the water pump cover and squirt  
> is some dish soap before starting?  Also, will the pump self prime,  
> or do I have to fill the hose up with water, by for instance,  
> pulling the hose of the pump inlet and pouring water into the hose  
> back towards the raw water filter?  Alan, Hull 67, Holland MI -  
> eagerly awaiting my first C320 season!!
>
> _________________________________________________________________
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