[C320-list] raw water intake modification

[Jeff Hare]

You could also just open the thru hull after you're all done and then
unscrew and drain the strainer.  The antifreeze does freeze in really cold
weather but gets slushy first, so has less tendency to break things.  I
still try to empty the strainer and muffler for the winter.  

Also, make sure ALL your thru-hulls are open.  You don't want
water/condensation/whatever to settle in the valve area and freeze.  Could
easily get cracks or damage seals.  Don't forget the holding tank thru-hull
either...  I did one year and that didn't work out so well.

-Jeff

-----Original Message-----
From: c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com
[mailto:c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com] On Behalf Of Jason
Alexander
Sent: Friday, January 13, 2012 10:51 AM
To: C320-List at catalina320.com
Subject: Re: [C320-list] raw water intake modification

Do you have issues with antifreeze not being in the strainer.   Or do
you just open and drain the strainer after you winterize the engine.

Jason

On Fri, Jan 13, 2012 at 9:31 AM,  <wflowe3 at aim.com> wrote:
>
>  Thanks for the advice and photo. I installed the fittings a few days ago.
The package came with 3 different sized fittings (3/4" 5/8" and smaller
one). I used the 3/4" fitting in my reverse cycle air conditioning intake
line and the 5/8" in the raw water intake line. The entire package of
fittings was less than $4 at the auto parts store.
>
> Bill
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jeff Hare <catalina at thehares.com>
> To: C320-List <C320-List at Catalina320.com>
> Sent: Thu, Nov 24, 2011 11:54 am
> Subject: Re: [C320-list] raw water intake modification
>
>
> Here's the link to the picture on the c320 website of our winterizing 
> engine flush port.
>
> It's after the filter.  To winterized or just run the engine for a while:
> * close the thru hull,
> * i use a 5 gal bucket with a garden hose fitting coming out the side 
> near the bottom.  With the bucket in the cockpit and a short section 
> of clear hose with garden hose fittings on each end, it connects the
bucket to the flush port.
> Clear hose is good because you can see water or antifreeze going through.
>
> I run a water hose in to fill the bucket and adjust the flow  so it 
> matches what the engine sucks out or adjust the engine rpm to fine 
> tune. It's easy to run the engine for 15 or 20 min this way.
>
> * then to winterized, shut off the water supply to the bucket, let the 
> engine drain the bucket, then pour in a couple gallons of rv 
> antifreeze.  Let the engine run 15 or 20 seconds after no more water 
> comes out the exhaust to drain the muffler and you're done.
>
> http://tinyurl.com/FlushPort
>
> Cheers!
> Jeff
>
> On Nov 24, 2011, at 9:20 AM, Jeff Hare <catalina at thehares.com> wrote:
>
>> Yes, I modified ours 10 years ago.  You should use either bronze or
plastic.
> Brass will dissolve very quickly in marine environment.  Unless it 
> says bronze and sold for marine use, it is most likely cast brass. In 
> brackish water, a brass connector on the raw water intake side on a 
> 320 near us developed pinholes in only 4 months.
>>
>> We have pics on the website showing our install that's convenient for
> winterizing and spring commissioning.  In my opinion, there's no need 
> for any valve here.
>>
>> -Jeff
>> #809
>>
>> On Nov 23, 2011, at 7:41 AM, wflowe3 at aim.com wrote:
>>
>>> I bought a 3 way valve to splice into my raw water intake hose to 
>>> ease the
> winterization process.  The thru-hull is so close to the prop shaft 
> that there is not enough room for the 3/4" brass valve and associated 
> hose barbs. Has anyone modified their intake hose/connections for this
process?
>>>
>>> Bill
>>> #1146
>>>
>>
>
>