[C320-list] Winterizing in northeast

[Tony Murphy]

I¹m no mechanic, but I would think the reason to change the oil before
storing for winter would be to clear out the contaminants that have built up
over the summer in the oil.  This includes trace amounts of dirt/sludge and
a larger amount (not sure how much) of acidic components resulting from the
combustion process.

I would rather have clean oil sitting next to my cylinder heads for 6-7
months or more rather than all that other unknown stuff which react
detrimentally with the inside of my engine.  In fact, I will probably change
my oil a few days before haulout when I can run the engine up to temp
(easier to remove hot oil) and then run the clean oil for a short period at
least throughout the engine. This way, everything is as clean as possible
inside (sorta).

A question for those experienced though... Do you really change out your
engine antifreeze/coolant on an annual basis?  I saw another poster elude to
this and didn¹t think it was necessary.

Ditto for tranny fluid??

Tony
Bella Sol #886


On 9/14/12 11:33 AM, "Gene Helfman" <genehelfman at gmail.com> wrote:

> Although we don't face the kind of winter here in the Pacific Northwest
> that you frozen easterners/mid-westerners do, we still tend to lay up for
> the winter because of relative cold and very windy winters.  Opinion
> amongst my fellow sailors is to put off oil and tranny fluid change until
> the spring, during recommissioning (why put in good oil if the engine isn't
> going to be run).  Also, where do folks stand on the full (and preserved)
> fuel tanks vs. empty.  Most folks here like to have the tank fuller to
> prevent condensation, but with a preservative/algicide added.
> 
> gene
> Satori, #398
> 
> On Fri, Sep 14, 2012 at 7:13 AM, <wflowe3 at aim.com> wrote:
> 
>> >
>> >  I find it preferable to drain the water tanks, by-pass water heater and
>> > blow/suck the waterlines dry with small shop vac rather than using any pink
>> > stuff in the system.
>> >
>> > Top off water levels in batteries.
>> >
>> > Since the boat will be on the hard, leave all through hulls open to
>> > gravity drain- make sure that stand/trailer pads don't obstruct a through
>> > hull after the boat is pulled
>> >
>> > you need to run the engine with the raw water intake hose sucking from a
>> > jug of antifreeze and the through hull closed. Depending on your plumbing,
>> > you may have to remove the intake hose from the through hull fitting to
>> > accomplish this
>> >
>> > Don't forget to pump pink stuff through the head.
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > -----Original Message-----
>> > From: dprudden <dprudden at comcast.net>
>> > To: C320-List <C320-List at Catalina320.com>
>> > Sent: Fri, Sep 14, 2012 5:31 am
>> > Subject: [C320-list] Winterizing in northeast
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > So, I got to sail the new (to me) boat for a month, but it's time to think
>> > about
>> > winter. She is scheduled to be hauled in 3 weeks and I don't want to screw
>> > up
>> > winterizing. Frtom searching the list, here's what I have found for the
>> > general
>> > idea of what I need to do. PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE tell me what I'm missing
>> > and/or
>> > pass on your winterizing lists (I couldn't find an actual list that exists
>> > anymore on the list).
>> >
>> > Engine-change oil (pump out thru dipstick), change coolant, tranny fluid.
>> > Pump
>> > "pink stuff" through raw water/muffler. I've done outboards many times, but
>> > never an inboard/diesel.
>> >
>> > Drain water tanks. Pour pink stuff down all drains, including head shower.
>> > Either bypass waterheater to save on pink stuff or plan on using 6+
>> > gallons (can
>> > be reused/recycled in spring). Never done this before.
>> >
>> > Make sure batteries are charged.
>> >
>> > Cover baby and put to bed for winter.
>> >
>> > What am I missing?
>> >
>> > The wife wants me to pay someone this year to make sure its done right,
>> > but I
>> > doubt I'd find someone. Anyone in Mass/RI want to make a few hundred bucks?
>> >
>> > Thanks for the help.
>> >
>> > David Prudden
>> > Teachers Pet II (#787)
>> >
>> >
>> >
>