[C320-list] Replacing Boom Lines (Outhaul & 1st Reef) on Charleston Spar Boom.

[Flyingmonkey]

Hello,

I have completed the boom rigging replacement on Blue Moon and wanted to share the lessons learned and my approach to the project with everyone. I uploaded photos with comments to my album on the C-320 Owners web site. 

Tools needed:

-Drill and drill bits
-Small Vice Grips
-9/16" socket wrench and 9/16" box end wrench
-Rubber Hammer
-Flat Head Screw Driver
-Rivet gun
-3/16" rivets/1/4" grip (Aluminum, SS or Monel) Which to use is a debate all on it's own.
-51' of 3/8" line for outhaul
-54' of 5/16' line for forward half of 1st reef line 
-20' of 5/16" line for aft half of 1st reef line  
-Beach Towel
-shop vac or dust pan and broom

Remove the mainsail Tack shackle and slide the sail aft of the boom cap to give yourself room to work without the sail getting in the way (or worse yet damaged). If I had to do it over again I may consider removing the mainsail for the project, but not necessary. Once your work area on the boom cap is clear drill out the five (5) 3/16" rivets attaching the boom cap to the boom (two on each side one on the bottom). Use the shop vac to clean up all the rivet debris before you scratch up your beautiful deck, hatches or they fuse with your running rigging to later bite your hands. 
Because the boom vang and goose neck are still attached don't expect anything to "pop" off once all the rivets are out. Trust me, if your boom has not been disassembled since manufacturing and it's a decade or so old like mine... it's on there. 
Next I removed the boom vang from the boom (9/16" socket and wrench) and laid it on the towel so as not to scratch the deck or hatch. Then I fastened the main halyard to the boom so that when I removed the goose neck the boom would remain supported at an optimal working height. It also helped to tie preventer lines to keep the boom from swinging too much. When removing the goose neck pin place a bucket or your hands directly under the gooseneck, there are two plastic washers inserted between the boom attachment and the gooseneck bracket, they bounce quite well so don't let them fall. Use the small vise grip or needle nose pliers to remove the retaining cotter pin from the top center of the goose neck pin. Then use the rubber hammer and flat head to tap out the pin. Catch those washers. Beware, at this point the boom is only supported by the boom lift (aft) and the main halyard (forward). With some light prying and taping (rubber hammer and flat head) the boom cap came off. 
When pulling your old lines thru be sure to tie the new lines on well or use a messenger line. The line you run thru the blocks will require a messenger line on the tail end since after you rig the blocks the aft end of the line will need to be pulled back thru the boom. Now I discovered a discrepancy between the Catalina owners manual and the Charleston Spar Manual. Catalina has the reef line running thru the block and Charleston Spar uses the block for the outhaul. My boom was set up with the outhaul line running thru the blocks so I kept it that way since the reefing line has air blocks on the sail and the use of the winch at the cockpit. I wanted to keep the purchase provided by the blocks for the outhaul since I can only pull that by hand at the mast. I see this developing into another discussion all it's own, however, the installation of the lines can be completed regardless of which line gets the blocks.
Now is a good time to inspect your sheave's . I wish I had replaced mine while I was in there but they will last a few more seasons. After you run your new lines and tie off the aft ends, rig the lines thru the front sheave's and reassemble the boom cap and attach with the 3/16" rivets. I then reattached the vang and then the goose neck. I needed assistance to adjust downward pressure on the boom vang in order to line up the goose neck, again be careful with those washers. Reattach your mainsail tack shackle and complete the run of your reef and outhaul line to the deck and your are finished. 

Total time to complete the project was roughly 2.5 hours. On a scale of 1 - 10 (1 = something easy like installing new dock lines and 10 = something complicated like and engine overhaul), I would rate this project a difficulty level of 4. For those of you who have never used a rivet gun before it is easier than using a drill and the rivets and gun are inexpensive. It is best to have a second set of hands for this project. if you will undertake this project on the boat, in the water (as I did yesterday) it is best to have calm wind and seas. The wind was blowing at 10+ knots when I started and fortunately it calmed to less than 4 knots by the time I removed the vang and goose neck. Had the wind remained steady at 10+ knots this would have been difficult to dangerous (boom swinging freely and boat rocking). Had I planned this as a mid winter project (rather than the week before a race) I would have removed the sail and boom from the boat and completed the project at home in my garage.  

I'm available for questions, but as this was my first time conducting the project I have no expert advice to offer than what I have submitted above. As for the debate on which line should be run thru the blocks (reef or outhaul) I'll leave that to those with more sailing experience than I have. 


Happy Sailing,

Lou Hodac 
Blue Moon
Hull 702
Elizabeth City, NC