[C320-list] Teak oil and "crib boards"

[Chris Burti]

I'm going to put on my 'wood butcher' hat and share some 'old school'
information about oil finishes.

A lot of teak oil sold today is of low quality and produces inferior
results...this leads to poor performance which, in turn, leads folks to
purchase other easy to use products which though more durable, are
often inferior in appearance.

Good teak oil is often expensive when purchased in marine stores, so most
people will opt for the cheap stuff which has a low percentage of solids
and may not have any UV protection added at all.

The way oil finishes work is that they contain resins (solids) and
solvents. The solvents allow the resins to be applied easily and to
penetrate the wood fibers. When the solvents evaporate, the resins harden
leaving a smooth and relatively durable finish.

It initially takes several applications, drying between coats, to build up
a good finish. Since cheap finishes contain a higher percentage of solvents
to hit a lower price point, it takes many more coats to obtain the same
quality finish as the better products...oops...that  actually makes the
cheap stuff more expensive.

To make matters more confusing, there are better quality brands that are
cheaper than some of the more expensive brands (that are actually just
'cheap stuff'' priced high). Well labeled products will have the percentage
of solids on the label. However, it is pretty easy to compare products that
are packaged in clear bottles. Shake the products enough to produce some
bubbles and you can readily see the difference in viscosity. The products
with thicker fluids will have a higher solids content.
Clean your teak thoroughly. Skip the expensive teak cleaners and use a
household cleaner containing Oxalic acid. This is a strong organic acid
that is a common ingredient in wood bleaches and which does not harm the
wood fibers, (also a great rust and tarnish remover as well). Zud,
Bartenders Friend and Kaboom all work well. Rinse well will fresh water and
let dry thoroughly. Sand smooth if the grain is severely weathered as the
grooves trap dirt. Do not use anything finer than 120 grit sanpaper
as finer grits will close up the wood pores and reduce the penetration of
the finish.

 To maintain the finish, wash frequently with mild soap and water and
when the finish starts to fade, apply a fresh coat of oil. This usually
means recoating at least twice a year and quarterly would be best...it is
pretty easy to apply a freshening coat when you maintain it rather than let
it go. If you have any teak attached to Fiberglas, wax the glass before
applying your teak oil and any spills will clean right up.

Now, if you're really cheap or simply want a better product, make your own
teak oil.

Recipe = mix equal parts 1.1.1.

High solids tung oil
Spar varnish (containing UV inhibitors)
Boiled Linseed oil

You can purchase all of these ingredients inexpensively in the paint
department of any big box store.

Fair winds,
Chris Burti
Commitment, #867

On Mon, Feb 4, 2013 at 11:25 PM, Nat Antler <nantler at pacbell.net> wrote:

> FYI: I just took my boards home after securing the hatch with an old piece
> of plywood and completely removed the original heavy stain/varnish with
> remover. Then sanded thoroughly to reveal some nice natural teak. I
> considered Cetol, but decided to oil them with West Marine teak oil. They
> look fantastic. I'll have to refresh them occasionally, but since they are
> protected somewhat by the dodger I'm hoping it won't be a problem. It will
> be easy to keep them oiled up and if I want to Cetol them at some point it
> won't require removing an existing finish. Anyone try a similar approach?
>
> Nat,
> 1995 320 "Natiki"
> San Diego




-- 
Chris Burti
Farmville, NC