[C320-list] Teak oil and "crib boards"

[Chris Burti]

On Thu, Feb 7, 2013 at 9:29 AM, <wflowe3 at aim.com> wrote:

>
>  Is a "crib" board anything like a hatch board?

many names for the same thing:

hatch boards
hatchboards
drop hatch boards
companionway boards
 companionway hatch boards
companionway drop boards
crib boards (from the coal cribs on old steamships)
wash boards
washboards

Anyone heard of/use other names???



>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bruce Heyman <bruceheyman at cox.net>
> To: C320-List <C320-List at Catalina320.com>
> Sent: Wed, Feb 6, 2013 8:37 am
> Subject: Re: [C320-list] Teak oil and "crib boards"
>
>
> Thanks!
>
> Bruce Heyman
> (949) 289-8400
>
> Chris Burti <clburti at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> >I use oil on ours. With the exception of the tiller on our old Cal T/2
> that
> >simply had to be varnished in my view and one regretable decision on a
> teak
> >binocular/cup rack that I built before installing the cockpit table
> >combination we now have, I abandoned varnish 20 years ago and now strictly
> >use oil on teak.
> >
> >The great thing about oil is:
> >1. You don't have to be skilled with a brush to get the same results as
> >someone who is.
> >2. If you get behind in your maintenance, a good scrub,  a couple of coats
> >of oil and you're looking good again with little effort.
> >3. You can do it while you're sailing.
> >
> >If you get behind with varnish, you have a major project on your hands.
> >
> >If you simply must use varnish on teak there are two things you really
> >should do for the best long term results.
> >
> >1. Because the natural oils in teak prevent good adhesion, anytime that
> you
> >are going to glue or varnish teak, you should wipe it down thoroughly with
> >acetone to dry out the surface pores.
> >
> >2. Your first coat of varnish should be thinned so that it will penetrate
> >the wood and form a better bond. The second coat should be applied after
> >the first coat is tack free, but not fully hardened.
> >Fair winds
> >Chris
> >On Wed, Feb 6, 2013 at 7:25 AM, Bruce Heyman <bruceheyman at cox.net> wrote:
> >
> >> Chris,
> >> Thanks...I know how discussions on varnish, oil, or cetal on teak can
> lead
> >> to religious wars but would you use the same process you described
> below on
> >> a teak cockpit table?
> >> Thanks,
> >> Bruce
> >> Somerset Dana Point (currently Redondo Beach)
> >>
> >> Bruce Heyman
> >> (949) 289-8400
> >>
> >> Kaare Wold <sailor3952 at charter.net> wrote:
> >>
> >> >Very educational and informative.  Thanks for taking the time to
> publish
> >> >this information.
> >> >Kaare Wold   Sheet Music #945
> >> >----- Original Message -----
> >> >From: "Flyingmonkey" <lou at flyingmonkey.im>
> >> >To: <C320-List at Catalina320.com>
> >> >Sent: Tuesday, February 05, 2013 10:03 AM
> >> >Subject: Re: [C320-list] Teak oil and "crib boards"
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >Wow! Thank you Chris for sharing that bit of technical wood care
> >> knowledge.
> >> >I had never given teak oil much thought before. Both interesting and
> >> >valuable.
> >> >
> >> >Thank you,
> >> >Lou
> >> >
> >> >On Feb 5, 2013, at 10:51 AM, Chris Burti <clburti at gmail.com> wrote:
> >> >
> >> >> I'm going to put on my 'wood butcher' hat and share some 'old school'
> >> >> information about oil finishes.
> >> >>
> >> >> A lot of teak oil sold today is of low quality and produces inferior
> >> >> results...this leads to poor performance which, in turn, leads folks
> to
> >> >> purchase other easy to use products which though more durable, are
> >> >> often inferior in appearance.
> >> >>
> >> >> Good teak oil is often expensive when purchased in marine stores, so
> >> most
> >> >> people will opt for the cheap stuff which has a low percentage of
> solids
> >> >> and may not have any UV protection added at all.
> >> >>
> >> >> The way oil finishes work is that they contain resins (solids) and
> >> >> solvents. The solvents allow the resins to be applied easily and to
> >> >> penetrate the wood fibers. When the solvents evaporate, the resins
> >> harden
> >> >> leaving a smooth and relatively durable finish.
> >> >>
> >> >> It initially takes several applications, drying between coats, to
> build
> >> up
> >> >> a good finish. Since cheap finishes contain a higher percentage of
> >> >> solvents
> >> >> to hit a lower price point, it takes many more coats to obtain the
> same
> >> >> quality finish as the better products...oops...that  actually makes
> the
> >> >> cheap stuff more expensive.
> >> >>
> >> >> To make matters more confusing, there are better quality brands that
> are
> >> >> cheaper than some of the more expensive brands (that are actually
> just
> >> >> 'cheap stuff'' priced high). Well labeled products will have the
> >> >> percentage
> >> >> of solids on the label. However, it is pretty easy to compare
> products
> >> >> that
> >> >> are packaged in clear bottles. Shake the products enough to produce
> some
> >> >> bubbles and you can readily see the difference in viscosity. The
> >> products
> >> >> with thicker fluids will have a higher solids content.
> >> >> Clean your teak thoroughly. Skip the expensive teak cleaners and use
> a
> >> >> household cleaner containing Oxalic acid. This is a strong organic
> acid
> >> >> that is a common ingredient in wood bleaches and which does not harm
> the
> >> >> wood fibers, (also a great rust and tarnish remover as well). Zud,
> >> >> Bartenders Friend and Kaboom all work well. Rinse well will fresh
> water
> >> >> and
> >> >> let dry thoroughly. Sand smooth if the grain is severely weathered as
> >> the
> >> >> grooves trap dirt. Do not use anything finer than 120 grit sanpaper
> >> >> as finer grits will close up the wood pores and reduce the
> penetration
> >> of
> >> >> the finish.
> >> >>
> >> >> To maintain the finish, wash frequently with mild soap and water and
> >> >> when the finish starts to fade, apply a fresh coat of oil. This
> usually
> >> >> means recoating at least twice a year and quarterly would be
> best...it
> >> is
> >> >> pretty easy to apply a freshening coat when you maintain it rather
> than
> >> >> let
> >> >> it go. If you have any teak attached to Fiberglas, wax the glass
> before
> >> >> applying your teak oil and any spills will clean right up.
> >> >>
> >> >> Now, if you're really cheap or simply want a better product, make
> your
> >> own
> >> >> teak oil.
> >> >>
> >> >> Recipe = mix equal parts 1.1.1.
> >> >>
> >> >> High solids tung oil
> >> >> Spar varnish (containing UV inhibitors)
> >> >> Boiled Linseed oil
> >> >>
> >> >> You can purchase all of these ingredients inexpensively in the paint
> >> >> department of any big box store.
> >> >>
> >> >> Fair winds,
> >> >> Chris Burti
> >> >> Commitment, #867
> >> >>
> >> >> On Mon, Feb 4, 2013 at 11:25 PM, Nat Antler <nantler at pacbell.net>
> >> wrote:
> >> >>
> >> >>> FYI: I just took my boards home after securing the hatch with an old
> >> >>> piece
> >> >>> of plywood and completely removed the original heavy stain/varnish
> with
> >> >>> remover. Then sanded thoroughly to reveal some nice natural teak. I
> >> >>> considered Cetol, but decided to oil them with West Marine teak oil.
> >> They
> >> >>> look fantastic. I'll have to refresh them occasionally, but since
> they
> >> >>> are
> >> >>> protected somewhat by the dodger I'm hoping it won't be a problem.
> It
> >> >>> will
> >> >>> be easy to keep them oiled up and if I want to Cetol them at some
> point
> >> >>> it
> >> >>> won't require removing an existing finish. Anyone try a similar
> >> approach?
> >> >>>
> >> >>> Nat,
> >> >>> 1995 320 "Natiki"
> >> >>> San Diego
> >> >>
> >> >>
> >> >>
> >> >>
> >> >> --
> >> >> Chris Burti
> >> >> Farmville, NC
> >> >>
> >> >
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >--
> >Chris Burti
> >Farmville, NC
>
>
>
>


-- 
Chris Burti
Farmville, NC