[C320-list] Teak oil and "crib boards"

[JJ Morrison]

WE can add splash boards and up here in the North we call them "snow boards". Major snow storm going on here today by the by.CheersJohnM1999#574

> From: twosailors at bigpond.com
> To: C320-List at Catalina320.com
> Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2013 07:07:59 +1100
> Subject: Re: [C320-list] Teak oil and "crib boards"
> 
> I think you have it covered apart from 
> 
> Storm Boards 
> 
> *************************
> Regards
> Colin Evans
> Watermark 
> 2000 C320 # 774 
> Lake Macquarie, Australia
>  
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com
> [mailto:c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com] On Behalf Of Chris Burti
> Sent: Friday, 8 February 2013 4:51 AM
> To: C320-List at catalina320.com
> Subject: Re: [C320-list] Teak oil and "crib boards"
> 
> On Thu, Feb 7, 2013 at 9:29 AM, <wflowe3 at aim.com> wrote:
> 
> >
> >  Is a "crib" board anything like a hatch board?
> 
> many names for the same thing:
> 
> hatch boards
> hatchboards
> drop hatch boards
> companionway boards
>  companionway hatch boards
> companionway drop boards
> crib boards (from the coal cribs on old steamships)
> wash boards
> washboards
> 
> Anyone heard of/use other names???
> 
> 
> 
> >
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Bruce Heyman <bruceheyman at cox.net>
> > To: C320-List <C320-List at Catalina320.com>
> > Sent: Wed, Feb 6, 2013 8:37 am
> > Subject: Re: [C320-list] Teak oil and "crib boards"
> >
> >
> > Thanks!
> >
> > Bruce Heyman
> > (949) 289-8400
> >
> > Chris Burti <clburti at gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > >I use oil on ours. With the exception of the tiller on our old Cal T/2
> > that
> > >simply had to be varnished in my view and one regretable decision on a
> > teak
> > >binocular/cup rack that I built before installing the cockpit table
> > >combination we now have, I abandoned varnish 20 years ago and now
> strictly
> > >use oil on teak.
> > >
> > >The great thing about oil is:
> > >1. You don't have to be skilled with a brush to get the same results as
> > >someone who is.
> > >2. If you get behind in your maintenance, a good scrub,  a couple of
> coats
> > >of oil and you're looking good again with little effort.
> > >3. You can do it while you're sailing.
> > >
> > >If you get behind with varnish, you have a major project on your hands.
> > >
> > >If you simply must use varnish on teak there are two things you really
> > >should do for the best long term results.
> > >
> > >1. Because the natural oils in teak prevent good adhesion, anytime that
> > you
> > >are going to glue or varnish teak, you should wipe it down thoroughly
> with
> > >acetone to dry out the surface pores.
> > >
> > >2. Your first coat of varnish should be thinned so that it will penetrate
> > >the wood and form a better bond. The second coat should be applied after
> > >the first coat is tack free, but not fully hardened.
> > >Fair winds
> > >Chris
> > >On Wed, Feb 6, 2013 at 7:25 AM, Bruce Heyman <bruceheyman at cox.net> wrote:
> > >
> > >> Chris,
> > >> Thanks...I know how discussions on varnish, oil, or cetal on teak can
> > lead
> > >> to religious wars but would you use the same process you described
> > below on
> > >> a teak cockpit table?
> > >> Thanks,
> > >> Bruce
> > >> Somerset Dana Point (currently Redondo Beach)
> > >>
> > >> Bruce Heyman
> > >> (949) 289-8400
> > >>
> > >> Kaare Wold <sailor3952 at charter.net> wrote:
> > >>
> > >> >Very educational and informative.  Thanks for taking the time to
> > publish
> > >> >this information.
> > >> >Kaare Wold   Sheet Music #945
> > >> >----- Original Message -----
> > >> >From: "Flyingmonkey" <lou at flyingmonkey.im>
> > >> >To: <C320-List at Catalina320.com>
> > >> >Sent: Tuesday, February 05, 2013 10:03 AM
> > >> >Subject: Re: [C320-list] Teak oil and "crib boards"
> > >> >
> > >> >
> > >> >Wow! Thank you Chris for sharing that bit of technical wood care
> > >> knowledge.
> > >> >I had never given teak oil much thought before. Both interesting and
> > >> >valuable.
> > >> >
> > >> >Thank you,
> > >> >Lou
> > >> >
> > >> >On Feb 5, 2013, at 10:51 AM, Chris Burti <clburti at gmail.com> wrote:
> > >> >
> > >> >> I'm going to put on my 'wood butcher' hat and share some 'old
> school'
> > >> >> information about oil finishes.
> > >> >>
> > >> >> A lot of teak oil sold today is of low quality and produces inferior
> > >> >> results...this leads to poor performance which, in turn, leads folks
> > to
> > >> >> purchase other easy to use products which though more durable, are
> > >> >> often inferior in appearance.
> > >> >>
> > >> >> Good teak oil is often expensive when purchased in marine stores, so
> > >> most
> > >> >> people will opt for the cheap stuff which has a low percentage of
> > solids
> > >> >> and may not have any UV protection added at all.
> > >> >>
> > >> >> The way oil finishes work is that they contain resins (solids) and
> > >> >> solvents. The solvents allow the resins to be applied easily and to
> > >> >> penetrate the wood fibers. When the solvents evaporate, the resins
> > >> harden
> > >> >> leaving a smooth and relatively durable finish.
> > >> >>
> > >> >> It initially takes several applications, drying between coats, to
> > build
> > >> up
> > >> >> a good finish. Since cheap finishes contain a higher percentage of
> > >> >> solvents
> > >> >> to hit a lower price point, it takes many more coats to obtain the
> > same
> > >> >> quality finish as the better products...oops...that  actually makes
> > the
> > >> >> cheap stuff more expensive.
> > >> >>
> > >> >> To make matters more confusing, there are better quality brands that
> > are
> > >> >> cheaper than some of the more expensive brands (that are actually
> > just
> > >> >> 'cheap stuff'' priced high). Well labeled products will have the
> > >> >> percentage
> > >> >> of solids on the label. However, it is pretty easy to compare
> > products
> > >> >> that
> > >> >> are packaged in clear bottles. Shake the products enough to produce
> > some
> > >> >> bubbles and you can readily see the difference in viscosity. The
> > >> products
> > >> >> with thicker fluids will have a higher solids content.
> > >> >> Clean your teak thoroughly. Skip the expensive teak cleaners and use
> > a
> > >> >> household cleaner containing Oxalic acid. This is a strong organic
> > acid
> > >> >> that is a common ingredient in wood bleaches and which does not harm
> > the
> > >> >> wood fibers, (also a great rust and tarnish remover as well). Zud,
> > >> >> Bartenders Friend and Kaboom all work well. Rinse well will fresh
> > water
> > >> >> and
> > >> >> let dry thoroughly. Sand smooth if the grain is severely weathered
> as
> > >> the
> > >> >> grooves trap dirt. Do not use anything finer than 120 grit sanpaper
> > >> >> as finer grits will close up the wood pores and reduce the
> > penetration
> > >> of
> > >> >> the finish.
> > >> >>
> > >> >> To maintain the finish, wash frequently with mild soap and water and
> > >> >> when the finish starts to fade, apply a fresh coat of oil. This
> > usually
> > >> >> means recoating at least twice a year and quarterly would be
> > best...it
> > >> is
> > >> >> pretty easy to apply a freshening coat when you maintain it rather
> > than
> > >> >> let
> > >> >> it go. If you have any teak attached to Fiberglas, wax the glass
> > before
> > >> >> applying your teak oil and any spills will clean right up.
> > >> >>
> > >> >> Now, if you're really cheap or simply want a better product, make
> > your
> > >> own
> > >> >> teak oil.
> > >> >>
> > >> >> Recipe = mix equal parts 1.1.1.
> > >> >>
> > >> >> High solids tung oil
> > >> >> Spar varnish (containing UV inhibitors)
> > >> >> Boiled Linseed oil
> > >> >>
> > >> >> You can purchase all of these ingredients inexpensively in the paint
> > >> >> department of any big box store.
> > >> >>
> > >> >> Fair winds,
> > >> >> Chris Burti
> > >> >> Commitment, #867
> > >> >>
> > >> >> On Mon, Feb 4, 2013 at 11:25 PM, Nat Antler <nantler at pacbell.net>
> > >> wrote:
> > >> >>
> > >> >>> FYI: I just took my boards home after securing the hatch with an
> old
> > >> >>> piece
> > >> >>> of plywood and completely removed the original heavy stain/varnish
> > with
> > >> >>> remover. Then sanded thoroughly to reveal some nice natural teak. I
> > >> >>> considered Cetol, but decided to oil them with West Marine teak
> oil.
> > >> They
> > >> >>> look fantastic. I'll have to refresh them occasionally, but since
> > they
> > >> >>> are
> > >> >>> protected somewhat by the dodger I'm hoping it won't be a problem.
> > It
> > >> >>> will
> > >> >>> be easy to keep them oiled up and if I want to Cetol them at some
> > point
> > >> >>> it
> > >> >>> won't require removing an existing finish. Anyone try a similar
> > >> approach?
> > >> >>>
> > >> >>> Nat,
> > >> >>> 1995 320 "Natiki"
> > >> >>> San Diego
> > >> >>
> > >> >>
> > >> >>
> > >> >>
> > >> >> --
> > >> >> Chris Burti
> > >> >> Farmville, NC
> > >> >>
> > >> >
> > >>
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >--
> > >Chris Burti
> > >Farmville, NC
> >
> >
> >
> >
> 
> 
> -- 
> Chris Burti
> Farmville, NC
>