[C320-list] lewmar portlights
JeffWillis111 at aol.com
JeffWillis111 at aol.com
Tue Apr 1 21:04:31 PDT 2014
Hey Chris,
I just did all ( 7 total) of mine myself and I know I had to spend less
than $100 in parts - and I went way overboard I think.
In my humble opinion, i would not dream of replacing these ports unless
yours are truly damaged - shattered lens, bent frame, etc.
I purchased new gaskets for lens, o-rings for dog ear latches, and 2 tubes
of life caulk - and only used 1 tube and even replaced the main saloon
hatch too.
I went overboard in the way I did the job. I spent close to 1.5 - 2 hours
per port. I removed port, scraped old bedding compound off fiberglass and
then wiped down with acetone. then the fun began. I used a set of dental
picks as suggested from the 320 website and began removing old caulk from
gasket channel of port light frame and from the horizontal split in frame -
very time consuming.....then dry fit new lens gaskets, I never siliconed
them in place as suggested.. Fitting new gaskets in radius of corners was
very difficult for me. I experimented with different methods of stretching
the gasket to fit in groove then pushing back in opposite direction once
gasket was in groove. it took a couple of different attempts to get
correct. The new gasket comes with the ends glued together but I ended up
breaking the glue when installing. Also begin inserting gasket into groove under
one of the hinges and work around port slowly. Removing dog ears and
replacing o-rings was very simple and straight forward.
Test fit the cleaned up port back in the opening a couple of times before
caulking to insure best position. Some of the cutouts in fiberglass were
pretty rough and left little room for error in repositioning port. I held
the port in place with tape until I could get below and reattach interior
frame. When attaching frame, I did not tighten the screws down very hard at
all, just enough to hold port in place until caulk sealed. Once it cured
overnight , I went back and tightened them a little more.
Things to look out for:
Removing screws for the first time -my boat is a 1995 model. I dont think
these ports had ever been taken apart before. Some of the screws needed
soaking (PB Blaster) and still needed an impact driver. I think I still
stripped off 3 screw heads. Try to avoid this......
Also about screws - some were longer than others- note which screw came
from what position and put back in same place when reinstalling.
Caulking - tape off the exterior around port to prevent extra work later.
I am still trying to clean up my mess around the edges of ports. i used
the same caulk to fill the horizontal split in frame as I did to rebed port.
Again tape will save you some work.
Interior plastic frames - mine are yellowed and brittle. I cleaned up the
interior frames very well and and smoothed the caulk on the interior side
and did not reinstall plastic frames. I like the look of the exposed
aluminum frames better than the plastic trim frames. I would be willing to give
these away to some one if they were interested.
Good luck,
Jeff Willis
Esprit, #174
In a message dated 4/1/2014 8:13:19 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
brucestanley36 at gmail.com writes:
Test
On Feb 20, 2014 11:40 AM, "Christopher Nichols" <cinichols at btinternet.com>
wrote:
> Time has come on Amanda Rose (476) to rebed or replace the cabin trunk
> portights ajacent to the shrouds. At present we have the original ones
with
> the horizontal split in the metal surround which i gather from posts a
> while ago are often problematic.
> I'd really appreciate advice on if it is advisable to replace the ports
> rather than simply rebed them in order to avoid problems in future. Also
if
> replacement is advisable then is there a particular model that you would
> recommend?
>
> My yard are quoting just about $1000 for rebedding the existing 4 so it
is
> looking pretty costly anyhow.
>
> Many thanks in advance for your thoughts.
>
>
> Chris Nichols
> Personal account
>
>
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