[C320-list] Bilge pump replacement (Utility Email)

Graeme Clark cg at skyflyer.co.uk
Fri Jun 13 03:45:19 PDT 2014


Ours is an older model (1996) so was fitted with a float switch in one part of the bilge (middle compartment) and the pump (noisy old fashioned diaphragm type) was in the port settee locker with the suction pipe running into the forward part of the bilge

This  meant that the only ‘backwash’ was the short section of pipe from pump to bilge.

Anyway it broke so I replaced it with a Rule 800 gph  (the original was 280gph) but one WITHOUT the inbuilt level sensor as I already had a working float switch. This was sited in the forward bilge area and i used a hoes connector to join what had been the inlet and outlet pipes under the port settee, now that there was no longer a pump sited there!

Because the float switch is “upstream” of the pump, although the forward bilge compartment empties in seconds, the pump continues to run for quite a bit longer as it takes time for the water to drain through the very small connecting holes between the bilge compartments, and thus for the level to reduce enough to deactivate the float switch. Thus when the pump stops (and it is rated to run dry, by the way) the backwash is not sufficient to trigger the float switch again - hence no rapid cycling.

So my suggestions  is one or more of the following
a) fit a separate float switch located  in an “upstream” compartment from where the pump itself is sited
b) make sure the holes through the ribs between bilge compartments are clear - ‘rod’ them with something like a pipe cleaner
c) dont fit too powerful a pump 

Hope this helps

Graeme
#303, UK (but currently in Baltimore MD!)



Message: 3
Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2014 19:17:10 -0700
From: Utility Email <kswanson123 at comcast.net>
To: "C320-List at Catalina320.com" <C320-List at Catalina320.com>
Subject: Re: [C320-list] Bilge pump replacement
Message-ID: <2AAC1C2E-E147-4E5D-9936-A1BFD11D5252 at comcast.net>
Content-Type: text/plain;	charset=utf-8

I replaced my original Rule bilge pump a couple of years ago on our 2007 C320 MK II.  I replaced it with a new Rule 1100 as others have done. 

I did remove the factory installed check valve because I don't like the idea of bilge water remaining in the line after the pump operates. In addition, the exit drain hose for the bilge pump is not impeded by the check valve and the head of the water in the line.  I think this is a more efficient and reliable way to connect the pump. Not as dry as a system with a check valve, but more efficient and reliable. 

Sure, the back flush of bilge water from the water in the line is a bit of a pain as it drains back into the bilge after the pump stops, but I generally sponge out the bilge to keep it dry anyway after it has had water in it.  

Anyway, this is my experience. 

Dave

Dave Swanson
S/V Emily Ann
2007 C320 MK II, No. 1107
Mukilteo, Washington

David B. Swanson, P.E., S.E.
Principal, LEED AP
Director, Structural Group

Reid Middleton, Inc.
(425) 741-3800 office
(425) 741-5011 direct
(425) 508-7971 mobile

www.reidmiddleton.com


> On Jun 11, 2014, at 10:56 AM, Martin Rosenberg <martinlrosenberg at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> I used a Whale inline check valve with my Rule 800 pump and Johnson Float
> valve and it has worked flawlessly so far (1 season).
> Martin Rosenberg
> Avalon  #823
> 
> 
>> On Wed, Jun 11, 2014 at 12:17 PM, Jeffrey Brown <oceanblues at mac.com> wrote:
>> 
>> Jerry
>> You raised a good question I?ve been meaning to ask.  I had a check valve
>> on my bilge when I bought the boat but when I replaced the pump with a Rule
>> 1100GPH, the force of the back pressure on the behind the check valve, the
>> pump would not work, so I had to remove it.  Has anyone has any luck with a
>> check valve and pump, if so, what pump brand works?  I hate that gallon or
>> more of backwash that comes in after the pump stops.
>> 
>> Jeff Brown
>> "Out of the blue" Dana Point, CA
>> Hull 78
>> (949) 350-5123
>> oceanblues at mac.com
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> On Jun 11, 2014, at 7:11 AM, Jerry Taylor <jerry at jerrytaylorhomes.com>
>> wrote:
>> 
>>> Hi Andy,
>>> 
>>> I recently had the same problem on my 2008, Mark II, #1128.  The
>> replacement would not fit, so I went to a Rule 1100 gph, model 492025.  It
>> cycles on every 2.5 minutes which is annoying, especially for light
>> sleepers.  I got an Attwood Sahara 1100 gph, model 3305364 from West Marine
>> which barely fits between the keel bolts.  I kept the Rule as a back up.  I
>> recently got into a cycling problem and just ordered a check valve from WM.
>> I know, they are a no-no, but I will take my chances.  Another option on
>> your replacement may be to add a piece of 1/2" Starboard material to shim
>> or raise the pump up. The bolts are not always square and there might be
>> just enough room!  It might work, but I did not want another half inch of
>> water in the bilge.
>>> 
>>> Jerry
>>> 
>>> -----Original Message----- From: writeandy
>>> Sent: Tuesday, June 10, 2014 5:14 PM
>>> To: c320-list at lists.catalina320.com
>>> Subject: [C320-list] Bilge pump replacement
>>> 
>>> Hello everyone
>>> 
>>> I am replacing a rule 1100 gph in my 2006 320.  However, the new rule
>> pump is just a little larger and the plumbing does not fit between the keel
>> bolts in the deep bilge.
>>> 
>>> I am wondering what pump will fit before I buy a 2nd replacement.
>>> 
>>> Thank you in advance for any suggestions.
>>> 
>>> Andy
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> -----
>>> No virus found in this message.
>>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>>> Version: 2014.0.4592 / Virus Database: 3955/7656 - Release Date: 06/10/14
>> 
>> 


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