[C320-list] Dry bilge?

[Jeff Hare]

Not that there isn't already enough things going on in this topic... :)   My
first hand experiences are:

       PSS Shaft Seal:
I had the older style non-vented PSS installed for 6 years.  Worked fine,
pretty dry, but burping it did let a few drops dribble in.  This could
result in black water carbon spray line across muffler, floor and the boards
above, so if you have a PSS, always be sure to replace the boards before
revving the prop after burping.  You could (like Al Ahlman discovered) end
up with a nice black line across your aft cabin roof.  The PSS set screws
don't need much bite to hold the SS ring in place, but would bite and hold
better in Bronze than SS if anything.  Best bet is to clamp on a doughnut
zinc to back up the SS PSS Shaft ring.  This is helpful for two reasons.  1)
in case a set screw doesn't grab well, the bellows can't cause the ring to
creep away over time.  2) If you need to add more pressure to the between
the carbon block and the SS ring, this will give you a nice reference point
and something solid to gently pry against when making fine adjustments to
the pressure.  

I also got the new vented PSS upgrade kit shipped to me for free (but never
used it).  Still have it new in the box, along with my original PSS which is
still in fine shape.

    SS Prop Shaft:
Upgrading the prop shaft from Bronze to SS is recommended when you upgrade
your prop to a heavier folding or feathering version.  Other than that, no
real need to replace the bronze with SS (especially just for a PSS).  Newer
boats all have SS from the factory anyway.

The Prop shaft is easily removed without dropping the rudder, but you have
to remove the stuffing box/PSS AND the cutlass bearing first in order to get
enough side to side deflection to clear the rudder.  It scrapes buy barely
but it does with a bit of effort.  I've personally done this twice myself
(two different C320s).  If I can do it, any bozo can.

     Gortex GFO Packing:
I have been using the GFO Packing instead of the PSS for 7 years now.  The
drain hole leading under the engine pan has a small piece of duct tape over
it so nothing drains to the bilge.  The GFO has run quiet, cool and really
100% dripless since then. The only time I need to mop water out of that
section is when I empty the junk from my raw water strainer and forget to
use a Ziploc baggie around it to contain the spills.

All things being equal, I like the stability and simplicity of the
traditional Stuffing box with GFO more than I did the PSS.  It also provides
a third point in between the coupling and the cutlass bearing to help
prevent shaft whip or oscillations. 

With the vented version, be sure that when revving it or moving in reverse
that back pressure doesn't cause the water to squirt out the top of the vent
hose.  I've seen that happen first hand also and was really surprised even
though it was led well above the water line.  I suppose it was because it
was such a small diameter hose it didn't take much pressure to force water
up a couple feet like a little mini fountain.  Not much water, but way more
than just a few drops.

Cheers!
-Jeff Hare #809

-----Original Message-----
From: C320-list [mailto:c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com] On Behalf
Of Allan S Field
Sent: Monday, November 24, 2014 9:21 PM
To: C320-List at Catalina320.com
Subject: Re: [C320-list] Dry bilge?

Martin - I think what was said about the rudder was that it did not need to
be dropped and the shaft didn't have to be removed to install the PYY shaft
seal.  But if changing out the shaft, I would imagine the rudder would need
to be dropped. - Allan

-----Original Message-----
From: C320-list [mailto:c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com] On Behalf
Of Martin Rosenberg
Sent: Monday, November 24, 2014 8:57 PM
To: C320-List at catalina320.com
Subject: Re: [C320-list] Dry bilge?

Sliding the shaft back a ways and removing the Shaft coupling to install the
PSS is a LOT LESS work that removing the shaft (and then probably the
cutless bearing). Someone on the list said that the rudder does not have to
be dropped to remove the shaft although I really don't see how the alignment
will allow it. Then 'they' say that the coupling should be reground and
fitted to the new shaft.
Martin Rosenberg
Avalon  #823

On Mon, Nov 24, 2014 at 7:52 PM, Pat Ireland <cherie320 at gmail.com> wrote:

> Just a thought - there might be valid logic in replacing the bronze 
> with stainless, considering that the process of installing the PSS 
> requires partial removal of the shaft.  So, if you are in for a penny, 
> why not spring for the whole pound.  Same might be said for engine 
> mounts, cutlass bearing, and prop.  But then again, there might not be 
> quite enough ink in the pen to write the check for that bill.  Cheers 
> Pat, 801
>
> On Mon, Nov 24, 2014 at 4:21 PM, Allan S Field 
> <allan.field at verizon.net>
> wrote:
>
> > My Question to PYY:  I have a Catalina 320 sailing vessel. There is 
> > "chatter" on our list-serve that if installing a PSS shaft seal, one
> should
> > change out their bronze shaft for stainless steel.  Just wondering 
> > if
> there
> > is any science behind this recommendation and what PYI recommends.  
> > Thank you!
> >
> > PYY Answer:  Hi Allan,
> >
> > This is false information and there are no issues what-so-ever 
> > installing the PSS Shaft Seal on a Bronze shaft. It's been happening 
> > for nearly 30 years now.
> >
> > Hope this helps and please let me know if there is anything else you
> need.
> >
> > Best regards,
> >
> > Justin S. Romesburg
> > Director of International Sales
> > PYI Inc. / Seaview
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: C320-list [mailto:c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com] On 
> > Behalf Of Doug Treff
> > Sent: Monday, November 24, 2014 7:50 AM
> > To: c320-list at lists.catalina320.com
> > Subject: Re: [C320-list] Dry bilge?
> >
> > CORRECTION - my mechanic recommended that I replace my bronze shaft 
> > with stainless when I get the PSS installed.
> >
> > ---
> > Doug Treff
> > doug at treff.us
> >
> > On 2014-11-22 10:35, pat reynolds wrote:
> > > I agree with Allan on the pss shaft. I replaced my original 
> > > because the company recommended a change every so many years.  The 
> > > original bellows looked fine when I removed it.  As far as the 
> > > mechanics suggestion that a bronze shaft be used, I can only think 
> > > that that was because bronze is softer than stainless and the set 
> > > screws might hold better.  A poor suggestion since I replaced my 
> > > original bronze shaft with stainless after getting a line caught
around it and bending it.
> > >
> >
> >
>