[C320-list] Teak Steps

[bev.wright]

Ron, only Epifanes for steps. From a wood finishing expert i met in West Marine, Cetol is not good for walking surfaces, too soft, great for hand surfaces like the hatch boards. Epifanes for steps. 

Bev

Sent from my iPhone. Please excuse touchscreen errors. 

> On Apr 20, 2015, at 6:54 PM, Ron Groves <rbluegroves at yahoo.com> wrote:
> 
> Bev it looks like there are two ways to go with the steps; either using Cetol Teak finish or Epifanes High Gloss Finish......am I correct?
> 
> Ron
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> 
>> On Apr 20, 2015, at 3:02 PM, "Beverly" <bev.wright at verizon.net> wrote:
>> 
>> Our 1993 C320 companionway steps and teak hatch boards had multiple layers
>> of high gloss varnish and needed refinishing. The steps and hatch board
>> varnish had started to peel in some areas and the steps had embedded
>> non-slip grit on the nose ends.  My father refinished the steps and they
>> look terrific.  
>> 
>> He tried using heavy duty Klean Strip paint stripper on the hatch boards
>> with almost no effect and ended up stripping them using 80 grit sandpaper
>> discs on a random rotary dust-less sander. This took some effort but worked
>> well to remove the old varnish. After that, it was a simple matter to fine
>> sand them with 150 grit and apply three coats of Cetol Teak finish to attain
>> a semi-gloss exterior finish that weathers well.
>> He removed the stair treads from the companionway stair frame and took them
>> home to strip them with the 80 grit sanding discs and random rotary sander.
>> This worked well to remove the old varnish and embedded non-skid grit from
>> the stair treads. He then finish-sanded the treads with 150 grit sanding
>> discs and wiped them down with a rag dipped in Epifanes brush thinner. He
>> then applied multiple coats of Epifanes High Gloss Finish, diluting the
>> initial coats with 50% of the Epifanes brush thinner. Subsequent coats were
>> applied full strength at 24 hour intervals and sanding between coats was
>> then not required. Six coats produced a suitable gloss finish.
>> 
>> Bev Wright
>> s/v Whoosh #15
>> 
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: C320-list [mailto:c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com] On Behalf
>> Of Pat Ireland
>> Sent: Monday, April 20, 2015 2:56 PM
>> To: C320-List at catalina320.com
>> Subject: Re: [C320-list] Teak Steps
>> 
>> If you plan to refresh the companionway steps, check all the welds on the
>> brackets that mount the treads.  There may be a issue with the way the
>> brackets were tack welded.  The tacks need to be beefed up to prevent
>> cracking.  A good welder can quickly resolve the problem if it's there and
>> has not been addressed prior.  Pat, 801
>> 
>>> On Mon, Apr 20, 2015 at 5:00 AM, Jeff Hare <Catalina at thehares.com> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Ron,
>>> 
>>> I'm planning to redo mine sometime this season. What you'll have to do 
>>> with yours really depends on their condition.  If the finish is 
>>> original they're coated with a Target polymer which is very hard and 
>>> won't strip off easily except for possibly using heat which has its 
>>> own obvious risks.  Because the teak veneer is not too thick on the 
>>> top, you'll have to sand carefully.
>>> 
>>> I'm still thinking about using the Target coatings product the factory 
>>> used, which I find is super easy to work with and cleans up with 
>>> water.  I believe that there is a chemical Cross-Linker sold by Target 
>>> that can be added to this to make the surface extra tough and maybe 
>>> better suited to steps.
>>> I've
>>> always been a tad concerned about the treads being slippery but don't 
>>> like the idea of adding non-skid to it because they're tough on bare 
>>> feet and break of eventually, tracking around the rest of the floor.
>>> 
>>> Generally speaking, bare teak is quite non-skid, gloss finish is more 
>>> non-skid than satin but gloss seems wrong on a boat full of satin 
>>> finished wood.  Others have put adhesive sandpaper like strips on the 
>>> steps.  So, once I get them sanded down, I'll decide what to use when I
>> see how they
>>> came out.  Options include:  Danish oil or Target coatings.    I've also
>>> considered taking a page from Island Packet, by routing the 'V' 
>>> grooves into a square channel and inlaying a piece of Ipe (Ironwood), 
>>> Holly, Maple or some other very hard contrasting wood that sits just 
>>> proud of the surface so that there's something to make steps less 
>>> slippery steps.  If I go this direction, I'll make a router jig so 
>>> that this process is a snap and donate it to the association toolbox.
>>> 
>>> -Jeff Hare
>>> #809
>>> 
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: C320-list [mailto:c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com] On 
>>> Behalf Of Ron Groves
>>> Sent: Sunday, April 19, 2015 6:15 PM
>>> To: C320-list at catalina320.com
>>> Subject: [C320-list] Teak Steps
>>> 
>>> Has anyone resurfaced steps leading down into cabin?  Not sure what to 
>>> use to strip wood with  (or is it best to sand), or best product to 
>>> use to re-seal.  Haven't worked with teak before so any help would be
>> appreciated.
>>> 
>>> Ron Groves
>>> #516
>>