[C320-list] Using bow cleats for mooring

[Jeff Hare]

Rather than remove the Anchor (which is a chore), we just pulled the anchor out it out enough to flip it over and put it back in the bow roller.  Then the flukes are pointed up and don't catch the pennant lines.  That's a lot easier to do than to remove the anchor and pull it on deck.

But normally when on a mooring ball,  we only use the Port side cleat because it is least likely to catch on the anchor during swing unless there is a tide/current/wind combination that makes the boat sit awkwardly.   When using double pennants, we nearly always flip the anchor upside down unless it's very calm.

-Jeff Hare
#809

PS:  Chris, your particular boat has had its anchor roller upgraded to the newer style which is longer than the ones originally installed on your hull # and earlier. So, those with hulls in the 400's or earlier, probably have the OEM short bow roller unless you specifically upgraded it.  Not sure if those are more or less susceptible having the mooring lines from the cleats catch on the anchor.

 
-----Original Message-----
From: C320-list [mailto:c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com] On Behalf Of Chris Nichols
Sent: Monday, December 19, 2016 2:43 AM
To: C320-List at Catalina320.com
Subject: Re: [C320-list] Using bow cleats for mooring

Hi Scott,
A fellow Brit c320 owner here. I have used my bow cleats in exactly the manner you describe for years without negative consequence on a swinging mooring where the boat has been subject to some horrendous conditions.

A couple of thoughts
1. Put leather chafing gear on the junk to protect it from the occasional twang from the tips of the anchor flukes (I have a boom bail on my anchor roller so removal of the anchor is a real chore). This can happen at the end of a swing with the right wave timing. 

2. I have no additional protection for my rail edge and you describe using adhesive SS. I would want to be really sure this did not create an additional chafe point e.g. If the edge of the metal got turned slightly.

All the best
Chris
(AmandaRose #476)

Sent from my iPhone

> On 19 Dec 2016, at 00:35, Scott Thompson <surprise at thompson87.com> wrote:
> 
> I keep my 1999 320 on such a mooring using a single mooring pennant led to the port cleat. I use a 12 foot by 3/4 inch Yale mooring pennant. Mooring on the starboard side causes problems with the anchor. I've had no problems through more than 12 years with this arrangement, including tropical storm force winds. I am in a sheltered creek so no significant wave action, tides or wakes. The bow cleats are less likely to fail than the mooring itself in my view. 
> 
> The only issues that I've had were due to the hull bumping against the buoy, which has scratched the boot stripe. 
> 
> Scott Thompson
> 
>> On Dec 18, 2016, at 7:05 PM, Graeme Clark <cg at skyflyer.co.uk> wrote:
>> 
>> My 1996 320, hull #366, has no bow fairleads, just the usual cleats either side a couple of feet back from the bow.
>> 
>> Here in Britain it is very common  - but I believe less so in USA - to have boats moored on a ‘swinging mooring’ rather than docked or ‘alongside’ in a marina.  This, for those that are unaware is large gauge chain connected to a heavy weight or block on the sea-bed. The chain is held up by a large floating buoy and a mooring strop or mooring chain is then connected to the top of the riser chain. The free end of this has a small “pickup” buoy attached.
>> 
>> Until now I have been using the mooring chain by removing the anchor and leading the chain over the anchor roller to the large central bow cleat. It works well but has two problems. It can be a pain to remove the anchor and stow it (it has to be taken aft as insufficient room in anchor locker), and it is easy to get fingers trapped when threading chain over the bow roller, especially if the sea is a bit choppy . Also the rusty chain leaves stains on the deck.
>> 
>> Instead of mooring chain, I am therefore considering having a double rope strop made up, to lead either side of the bow to the two bow cleats, having a soft spliced eye at the cleat end and a hard eye at the riser chain end. I envisage using some of the self-adhesive thin stainless steel sheet to protect the edge of the deck where the line might chafe.
>> 
>> The real question though is whether these cleats are up to the load - compared to the large central cleat.  i think they must be as they are, after all, what is used to secure the boat alongside in a dock or marina berth. On the other hand the swinging moorings are a little further off shore from the marina and have less shelter so a strong gale and choppy seas might put quite a strain on them.
>> 
>> I’d be interested to hear of other owners who have used or do use similar mooring techniques and any alternative recommendations.
>> 
>> Thanks
>> 
>> Graeme 
>> 
>> ———————————————————
>> I work irregular hours and often write emails late in the evening and at weekends; that doesn’t mean I expect you to do the same; reply when convenient!
>> 
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