[C320-list] Castle prop nut loose.

[tharrison at innovations-plus.com]

Sorry to jump in on this topic. Do you use a bass key on a bass shaft and prop or is a steel key ok to use? 

If you use a steel key does it cause galvanic scaling and almost weld itself in place?

Thanks

Ted Harrison
Magic Moment (1997)
Whitby Ontario

-----Original Message-----
From: C320-list [mailto:c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com] On Behalf Of Marek Fluder
Sent: Saturday, February 20, 2016 7:48 AM
To: C320-List at Catalina320.com
Subject: Re: [C320-list] Castle prop nut loose.

Thank you Graeme and Joe for your input.
As I have mentioned, because of previous discussions on similar topic where air guns, PB Blaster and breaker bars were mentioned to loosen the nut, I felt a little silly when touched mine and it was free...
Joe - my conclusion from those discussions was that some of our boats have
1 and some 2 prop nuts.
Graeme - I have the same thoughts about forces exerted on the prop, but I think vibrations might eventually loosen it up.
I will attempt to tighten it up if positioning of the cotter pin opening aligns with desired tightness.
Thanks again.

Marek
#1028, Lake Ontario



On Wed, Feb 17, 2016 at 3:03 PM, Graeme Clark <cg at skyflyer.co.uk> wrote:

> There is only one nut on mine!
>
> I think you are worrying un-necessarily. When in forward gear the 
> effect of the prop is that it pushes itself onto the shaft (it’s 
> pushing the entire boat forwards too!). I think the shaft is tapered 
> as is the inside of the prop so the effect is to ‘jam’ the two together.
>
> There is a limit to how far you can turn a castellated nut and still 
> get the holes in the shaft to align with a slot in the castellations 
> so it may not always be possible to get the nut really tight.
>
> Only in reverse gear is there a risk of the prop sliding back. However 
> there is a key in the shaft and prop hub so even if it does slide back 
> it will not rotate. There is no circumstance where the split pin 
> through the nut is transmitting the torque and might shear -  that just wont happen!
> The pin is just to stop the nit rotating loose!
>
> All in my humble opinion of course!!
>
> Graeme
> #366 Jaskar, Falmouth, UK
>
> On 17 Feb 2016, at 19:46, Joe Abbagnaro <jabbagna at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > Hi Marek
> > In the photo you can see on the shaft a place for a second pin to go
> through indicating a second nut it has been a while since I have owned 
> the
> 320 but I am pretty sure you should have 2 nuts. Let's see what others 
> have to say
> > Joe
> >
> > Sent From Mobile Device
> >
> >> On Feb 17, 2016, at 2:11 PM, Marek Fluder <marekf at gmail.com> wrote:
> >>
> >> Joe,
> >> I have only one castle nut.
> >> Here is the photo:
> >> https://goo.gl/photos/ayW5YSYhw17DUzUJ6
> >>
> >> Marek
> >> #1028, Lake Ontario
> >>
> >>> On Wed, Feb 17, 2016 at 1:54 PM, Joe Abbagnaro 
> >>> <jabbagna at gmail.com>
> wrote:
> >>>
> >>> Yes you need to tighten that nut should not have any slack not 
> >>> 100%
> Sure
> >>> but thought it was a double nut on the prop Joe
> >>>
> >>> Sent From Mobile Device
> >>>
> >>>> On Feb 17, 2016, at 10:48 AM, Marek Fluder <marekf at gmail.com> wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>> After reading previous discussions about cutlass bearing 
> >>>> replacement I
> >>> was
> >>>> looking at my prop and shaft yesterday.
> >>>> Shaft play at cutlass bearing is about 0.4mm (1/64") so I do not
> think it
> >>>> needs replacement at this time.
> >>>> I have found though that the castle nut is free (not tight 
> >>>> against the
> >>>> prop) being held by the cotter pin. Fixed 3 bladed prop seems to 
> >>>> be
> >>> solidly
> >>>> jammed on the shaft.
> >>>> Do I need to tighten the nut?
> >>>>
> >>>> Marek
> >>>> #1028, Lake Ontario
> >>>
>
> ———————————————————
> I work irregular hours and often write emails late in the evening and 
> at weekends; that doesn’t mean I expect you to do the same; reply when 
> convenient!
>
>
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>
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