[C320-list] re gluing white flat plastic strip?

[Jeff Hare]

I second that.

Also, instead of applying it to the rails, you can use a little wider piece and attach it to the underside of the hatch.  Then it will always be pressing against the rail and also not exposed to UV or weather and will last even longer.

-Jeff Hare
#809

-----Original Message-----
From: C320-list [mailto:c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com] On Behalf Of Allan S Field
Sent: Wednesday, June 8, 2016 6:47 PM
To: C320-List at Catalina320.com
Subject: Re: [C320-list] re gluing white flat plastic strip?

Diane - I bought a roll of Japanese Glide Tape in 2009 from Annapolis Performance Sailing.  It comes in a 3/4-inch by 26-foot roll, more than you and everyone you know will ever need!  Total cost with shipping at that time was less than $30.00.  I peeled the old stuff off, cleaned the underneath thoroughly, applied this stuff and it has worked absolutely-perfect in 7 years with no peeling.  Hope this helps! 

Allan S. Field
Sea Shadow - #808
Columbia, MD

-----Original Message-----
From: C320-list [mailto:c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com] On Behalf Of DianeFlr at aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, June 8, 2016 6:51 AM
To: C320-List at Catalina320.com
Subject: [C320-list] re gluing white flat plastic strip?

Hey, guys,
 
I love the excellent advise you all have for me!
 
Now, the strips where the hatch SLIDES has come up again.  Previously,  I glued down with contact cement; but that seems to have dried up.  
 
any suggestions?
 
thanks again, as usual,
 
S/V  Windy City,  hull #948
 
Captain Diane Fowler,
CRS, GRI, e-PRO
Gulf Coast  Realty Network

Cell: 239-850-4935

www.CapeCoralhomes.com  

 
In a message dated 6/7/2016 5:44:53 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, jbrown5093 at yahoo.com writes:

Thanks  very much Graeme.  Wondered why I couldn't find aft screws. Thought it  might be tacked down there with a little epoxy.

Jim Brrown

Sent  from my iPhone

> On Jun 7, 2016, at 4:31 PM, Graeme Clark  <cg at skyflyer.co.uk> wrote:
> 
> I mentioned in relation to  another post that I had managed to do this
and was asked to detail how to do  it -  useful if you need to easily access the fuel tank and also - as I  found - it makes replacing the hoses or filler points for water and fuel (or  bilge pump hoses) a whole lot easier if the shelf is removed!
> 
>  There’s no big secret - it is just a bit fiddly!  The shelf lies on
forward and aft battens that lie athwart-ships. As you look down the screws that are holding the shelf to the forward batten are obvious but the rear of the shelf is hidden by the return on the transom that forms the sugar scoop,  making it seemingly impossible to get to those screws.
> 
> In  fact the screws that hold the shelf to the rear batten are 
> inserted
from  below. This requires some dexterity and contortion but it is possible for even  a sizeable chap such  as me (6ft 4 and 210 pounds) to crawl through the  hatch from the aft cabin and wiggle around the rudder post to reach the  screws.  
> 
> Having undone them you can then remove the two  halves of the shelf  -
the outboard one is easiest to remove first  -  by a combination of lifting, twisting and turning. Its a bit fiddly  but it IS do-able.
> 
> By the way I found that I had to remove  the retro-fitted rudder
reference unit that was not part of the original kit  on the boat, which obstructed the inner forward corner of the shelf. It was  easily refitted afterwards.
> 
> Once the shelf is out it is so  much easier to work in the rear
lazarette/locker as you can literally sit on  the bottom of the hull (either on port-side or on starboard side, outside the  fuel tank)  with your legs horizontal behind the rudder post and you then  have good access to all the kit and fittings.
> 
> Hope this is of  some use
> 
> Graeme
> #366 Jaskar, 1996
>  ———————————————————
> I work irregular hours and often write emails late  in the evening and 
> at
weekends; that doesn’t mean I expect you to do the same;  reply when convenient!
> 
> 
> 
> 
>