[C320-list] re gluing white flat plastic strip?

[Karl Mielenhausen]

Woodworking stores carry glide tape also. Might be a closer option.

Karl

On Wed, Jun 8, 2016 at 6:47 PM, Allan S Field <allan.field at verizon.net>
wrote:

> Diane - I bought a roll of Japanese Glide Tape in 2009 from Annapolis
> Performance Sailing.  It comes in a 3/4-inch by 26-foot roll, more than you
> and everyone you know will ever need!  Total cost with shipping at that
> time was less than $30.00.  I peeled the old stuff off, cleaned the
> underneath thoroughly, applied this stuff and it has worked
> absolutely-perfect in 7 years with no peeling.  Hope this helps!
>
> Allan S. Field
> Sea Shadow - #808
> Columbia, MD
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: C320-list [mailto:c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com] On
> Behalf Of DianeFlr at aol.com
> Sent: Wednesday, June 8, 2016 6:51 AM
> To: C320-List at Catalina320.com
> Subject: [C320-list] re gluing white flat plastic strip?
>
> Hey, guys,
>
> I love the excellent advise you all have for me!
>
> Now, the strips where the hatch SLIDES has come up again.  Previously,  I
> glued down with contact cement; but that seems to have dried up.
>
> any suggestions?
>
> thanks again, as usual,
>
> S/V  Windy City,  hull #948
>
> Captain Diane Fowler,
> CRS, GRI, e-PRO
> Gulf Coast  Realty Network
>
> Cell: 239-850-4935
>
> www.CapeCoralhomes.com
>
>
> In a message dated 6/7/2016 5:44:53 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
> jbrown5093 at yahoo.com writes:
>
> Thanks  very much Graeme.  Wondered why I couldn't find aft screws.
> Thought it  might be tacked down there with a little epoxy.
>
> Jim Brrown
>
> Sent  from my iPhone
>
> > On Jun 7, 2016, at 4:31 PM, Graeme Clark  <cg at skyflyer.co.uk> wrote:
> >
> > I mentioned in relation to  another post that I had managed to do this
> and was asked to detail how to do  it -  useful if you need to easily
> access the fuel tank and also - as I  found - it makes replacing the hoses
> or filler points for water and fuel (or  bilge pump hoses) a whole lot
> easier if the shelf is removed!
> >
> >  There’s no big secret - it is just a bit fiddly!  The shelf lies on
> forward and aft battens that lie athwart-ships. As you look down the
> screws that are holding the shelf to the forward batten are obvious but the
> rear of the shelf is hidden by the return on the transom that forms the
> sugar scoop,  making it seemingly impossible to get to those screws.
> >
> > In  fact the screws that hold the shelf to the rear batten are
> > inserted
> from  below. This requires some dexterity and contortion but it is
> possible for even  a sizeable chap such  as me (6ft 4 and 210 pounds) to
> crawl through the  hatch from the aft cabin and wiggle around the rudder
> post to reach the  screws.
> >
> > Having undone them you can then remove the two  halves of the shelf  -
> the outboard one is easiest to remove first  -  by a combination of
> lifting, twisting and turning. Its a bit fiddly  but it IS do-able.
> >
> > By the way I found that I had to remove  the retro-fitted rudder
> reference unit that was not part of the original kit  on the boat, which
> obstructed the inner forward corner of the shelf. It was  easily refitted
> afterwards.
> >
> > Once the shelf is out it is so  much easier to work in the rear
> lazarette/locker as you can literally sit on  the bottom of the hull
> (either on port-side or on starboard side, outside the  fuel tank)  with
> your legs horizontal behind the rudder post and you then  have good access
> to all the kit and fittings.
> >
> > Hope this is of  some use
> >
> > Graeme
> > #366 Jaskar, 1996
> >  ———————————————————
> > I work irregular hours and often write emails late  in the evening and
> > at
> weekends; that doesn’t mean I expect you to do the same;  reply when
> convenient!
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>