[C320-list] re gluing white flat plastic strip?

[Chris Burti]

The replacement material I purchased from Woodworkers Supply (.com) for
table saws is self adhering.
CB aboard Commitment,#867

Chris Burti
Farmville, NC


On Wed, Jun 8, 2016 at 6:50 AM, <DianeFlr at aol.com> wrote:

> Hey, guys,
>
> I love the excellent advise you all have for me!
>
> Now, the strips where the hatch SLIDES has come up again.  Previously,  I
> glued down with contact cement; but that seems to have dried up.
>
> any suggestions?
>
> thanks again, as usual,
>
> S/V  Windy City,  hull #948
>
> Captain Diane Fowler,
> CRS, GRI, e-PRO
> Gulf Coast  Realty Network
>
> Cell: 239-850-4935
>
> www.CapeCoralhomes.com
>
>
> In a message dated 6/7/2016 5:44:53 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
> jbrown5093 at yahoo.com writes:
>
> Thanks  very much Graeme.  Wondered why I couldn't find aft screws. Thought
> it  might be tacked down there with a little epoxy.
>
> Jim Brrown
>
> Sent  from my iPhone
>
> > On Jun 7, 2016, at 4:31 PM, Graeme Clark  <cg at skyflyer.co.uk> wrote:
> >
> > I mentioned in relation to  another post that I had managed to do this
> and was asked to detail how to do  it -  useful if you need to easily
> access
> the fuel tank and also - as I  found - it makes replacing the hoses or
> filler
> points for water and fuel (or  bilge pump hoses) a whole lot easier if the
> shelf is removed!
> >
> >  There’s no big secret - it is just a bit fiddly!  The shelf lies on
> forward and aft battens that lie athwart-ships. As you look down the screws
> that are holding the shelf to the forward batten are obvious but the rear
> of
> the shelf is hidden by the return on the transom that forms the sugar
> scoop,
>  making it seemingly impossible to get to those screws.
> >
> > In  fact the screws that hold the shelf to the rear batten are inserted
> from  below. This requires some dexterity and contortion but it is possible
> for even  a sizeable chap such  as me (6ft 4 and 210 pounds) to crawl
> through
> the  hatch from the aft cabin and wiggle around the rudder post to reach
> the  screws.
> >
> > Having undone them you can then remove the two  halves of the shelf  -
> the outboard one is easiest to remove first  -  by a combination of
> lifting,
> twisting and turning. Its a bit fiddly  but it IS do-able.
> >
> > By the way I found that I had to remove  the retro-fitted rudder
> reference unit that was not part of the original kit  on the boat, which
> obstructed
> the inner forward corner of the shelf. It was  easily refitted afterwards.
> >
> > Once the shelf is out it is so  much easier to work in the rear
> lazarette/locker as you can literally sit on  the bottom of the hull
> (either on
> port-side or on starboard side, outside the  fuel tank)  with your legs
> horizontal behind the rudder post and you then  have good access to all
> the kit and
> fittings.
> >
> > Hope this is of  some use
> >
> > Graeme
> > #366 Jaskar, 1996
> >  ———————————————————
> > I work irregular hours and often write emails late  in the evening and at
> weekends; that doesn’t mean I expect you to do the same;  reply when
> convenient!
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>