[C320-list] C320-list Digest, Vol 2622, Issue 1
Chris Burti
clburti at gmail.com
Wed May 25 10:31:22 PDT 2016
A failing breaker will trip under normal loads. However, before you go
there, a good breaker senses high amp loads on its circuit and trips at its
trigger amperage (e.g.50 AMPS). If there is a poor connection on either the
hot side feed of the starter or the ground side caused by corrosion or a
loose fitting, the resistance causes the starter to pull a higher load. In
the case of a really poor connection, the breaker would exhibit your
described symptoms.
Check your connections and particularly the condition of the cable lugs on
the cable itself, there may corrosion inside the crimp.
Fair winds,
Chris Burti
Commitment, #867
Chris Burti
Farmville, NC
On Tue, May 24, 2016 at 6:02 PM, Tom Talling <ttalling at gmail.com> wrote:
> Has anybody had the problem with the main breaker triggering when trying
> to start their Yanmar? It is intermittent but getting much worse. I keep
> flipping it and it eventually starts.
>
> Regards,
>
> Tom Talling 978.
> 215-262-1427
> Ttalling at comcast.net
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> > On May 24, 2016, at 11:32 AM, c320-list-request at lists.catalina320.com
> wrote:
> >
> > Send C320-list mailing list submissions to
> > c320-list at lists.catalina320.com
> >
> > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
> > http://lists.catalina320.com/listinfo.cgi/c320-list-catalina320.com
> > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
> > c320-list-request at lists.catalina320.com
> >
> > You can reach the person managing the list at
> > c320-list-owner at lists.catalina320.com
> >
> > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> > than "Re: Contents of C320-list digest..."
> >
> >
> > Today's Topics:
> >
> > 1. Yanmar starting problem (Robert Dean)
> > 2. Re: Yanmar starting problem (Chris Burti)
> > 3. Re: Yanmar starting problem (Brian Borchers)
> > 4. Re: Hull #514 (Troy Dunn)
> > 5. Re: Hull #514 (Graeme Clark)
> > 6. Re: Yanmar starting problem (Robert Dean)
> > 7. Re: Not-Holding-Tank Leak (Warren Updike)
> > 8. Re: Yanmar starting problem (Larry Frank)
> > 9. Re: Yanmar starting problem (Bruce Hunter)
> > 10. Re: Yanmar starting problem (Bruce Hunter)
> > 11. Re: Not-Holding-Tank Leak (Amiraults Family)
> > 12. Re: Yanmar starting problem (Jeff Hare)
> > 13. Re: Yanmar starting problem (millers1 at aol.com)
> >
> >
> > ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> >
> > Message: 1
> > Date: Mon, 23 May 2016 19:07:04 +0000 (UTC)
> > From: Robert Dean <robrtdean at yahoo.com>
> > To: "c320-list at lists.catalina320.com"
> > <c320-list at lists.catalina320.com>
> > Subject: [C320-list] Yanmar starting problem
> > Message-ID:
> > <905153313.1291714.1464030424159.JavaMail.yahoo at mail.yahoo.com>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8
> >
> > I have hull 550, it's a 1998 with a Yanmar 3GM30. Last fall it became
> hard to start after it sat for a few days. Once it started it ran a little
> rough for a minute or two than ran fine. After it ran it would start with
> just the touch of the starter button.If it sat for a few hours it would
> still start right up. It is getting air in the fuel lines some how.Over the
> winter I did away with the check valve on the fuel line at the injector
> pump per Yanmar service advisory 11-1-2000. ?I replaced the Racor filter
> element and gaskets and the Yanmar filter element and o-ring. I replaced
> the fuel hose from the tank to the Racor ?and from Racor to the lift pump,I
> also replaced the line that goes around the dipstick. I replace all the
> copper seals.Everything is new from the fuel tank to injector pump,but I
> still have the same problem. I had a mechanic look at it,he couldn't find
> any leaks. The mechanic did say it might be an injector leaking. Before I
> go to the expense of replacing injec
> > tors, I thought ?I would ask if anyone else had this problem.
> > Bob DeanJust Chillin 550Worton Creek?
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Message: 2
> > Date: Mon, 23 May 2016 15:30:01 -0400
> > From: Chris Burti <clburti at gmail.com>
> > To: 320 <C320-List at catalina320.com>
> > Subject: Re: [C320-list] Yanmar starting problem
> > Message-ID:
> > <CAAAgXkwsmvaKRT9_C78t5A3hkJ_AE686sOQeNj0-stdxyi_03A at mail.gmail.com>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8
> >
> > Bob,
> > The "crush" washer in the upper bleed screw port, just before the
> injectors
> > is made using a nickle alloy that is intended to be soft enough to form a
> > seal when tightened. If it is over-tightened or if it has been replaced
> > with a stainless steel washer, it can cause the symptoms that you
> describe.
> > It is cheap enough to try replacing it before pulling the injectors.
> >
> > Fair winds,
> > Chris Burti,
> > Commitment, #867
> > Washington, NC
> >
> > Chris Burti
> > Farmville, NC
> >
> >
> >> On Mon, May 23, 2016 at 3:07 PM, Robert Dean <robrtdean at yahoo.com>
> wrote:
> >>
> >> I have hull 550, it's a 1998 with a Yanmar 3GM30. Last fall it became
> hard
> >> to start after it sat for a few days. Once it started it ran a little
> rough
> >> for a minute or two than ran fine. After it ran it would start with just
> >> the touch of the starter button.If it sat for a few hours it would still
> >> start right up. It is getting air in the fuel lines some how.Over the
> >> winter I did away with the check valve on the fuel line at the injector
> >> pump per Yanmar service advisory 11-1-2000. I replaced the Racor filter
> >> element and gaskets and the Yanmar filter element and o-ring. I replaced
> >> the fuel hose from the tank to the Racor and from Racor to the lift
> pump,I
> >> also replaced the line that goes around the dipstick. I replace all the
> >> copper seals.Everything is new from the fuel tank to injector pump,but I
> >> still have the same problem. I had a mechanic look at it,he couldn't
> find
> >> any leaks. The mechanic did say it might be an injector leaking. Before
> I
> >> go to the expense of replacing injectors, I thought I would ask if
> anyone
> >> else had this problem.
> >> Bob DeanJust Chillin 550Worton Creek
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Message: 3
> > Date: Mon, 23 May 2016 17:09:31 -0400
> > From: Brian Borchers <slaintec320 at gmail.com>
> > To: C320-List at Catalina320.com
> > Subject: Re: [C320-list] Yanmar starting problem
> > Message-ID: <B49DE8ED-5886-4AA6-A6F2-FC19DCE77EA9 at gmail.com>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
> >
> > Bob,
> >
> > This was a very common problem with Yanmars produced in late 90?s, I do
> not recall the exact time line. However, there is a Service Bulletin
> posted not the Catalina 320 Association web page about the issue. I had a
> similar problem and it was an easy fix once identified. Hope this helps:
> >
> >
> > 2. Yanmar Service Bulletin - Hard Starting <
> http://www.catalina320.com/filemgmt/index.php?id=75>
> > After sitting for a week or so my engine would crank for a long time
> before starting. The problem was getting a little worse each year. Mack
> Boring suggested that I make this modification to the fuel lines. Now the
> engine starts almost immediately. (Jeff Church)
> > by Karl Mielenhausen <
> http://www.catalina320.com/users.php?mode=profile&uid=709> on 10/14
> 01:16PM - FileMgmt <
> http://www.catalina320.com/search.php?query=yanmar+starting+&keyType=all&type=filemgmt&mode=search>
> - 332 Hits
> >
> > You will have to go to the web site and open the above link and download
> the PDF file from Mack Boring.
> >
> > Brian Borchers
> > Slainte #609
> >
> >> On May 23, 2016, at 3:30 PM, Chris Burti <clburti at gmail.com> wrote:
> >>
> >> Bob,
> >> The "crush" washer in the upper bleed screw port, just before the
> injectors
> >> is made using a nickle alloy that is intended to be soft enough to form
> a
> >> seal when tightened. If it is over-tightened or if it has been replaced
> >> with a stainless steel washer, it can cause the symptoms that you
> describe.
> >> It is cheap enough to try replacing it before pulling the injectors.
> >>
> >> Fair winds,
> >> Chris Burti,
> >> Commitment, #867
> >> Washington, NC
> >>
> >> Chris Burti
> >> Farmville, NC
> >>
> >>
> >>> On Mon, May 23, 2016 at 3:07 PM, Robert Dean <robrtdean at yahoo.com>
> wrote:
> >>>
> >>> I have hull 550, it's a 1998 with a Yanmar 3GM30. Last fall it became
> hard
> >>> to start after it sat for a few days. Once it started it ran a little
> rough
> >>> for a minute or two than ran fine. After it ran it would start with
> just
> >>> the touch of the starter button.If it sat for a few hours it would
> still
> >>> start right up. It is getting air in the fuel lines some how.Over the
> >>> winter I did away with the check valve on the fuel line at the injector
> >>> pump per Yanmar service advisory 11-1-2000. I replaced the Racor
> filter
> >>> element and gaskets and the Yanmar filter element and o-ring. I
> replaced
> >>> the fuel hose from the tank to the Racor and from Racor to the lift
> pump,I
> >>> also replaced the line that goes around the dipstick. I replace all the
> >>> copper seals.Everything is new from the fuel tank to injector pump,but
> I
> >>> still have the same problem. I had a mechanic look at it,he couldn't
> find
> >>> any leaks. The mechanic did say it might be an injector leaking.
> Before I
> >>> go to the expense of replacing injectors, I thought I would ask if
> anyone
> >>> else had this problem.
> >>> Bob DeanJust Chillin 550Worton Creek
> >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Message: 4
> > Date: Mon, 23 May 2016 19:20:44 -0400
> > From: Troy Dunn <troutwarrior at gmail.com>
> > To: "C320-List at catalina320.com" <C320-List at catalina320.com>
> > Subject: Re: [C320-list] Hull #514
> > Message-ID:
> > <CA+rGV8YzVw40PMrefxm=Q_5Red78K8oMA_QK7YydC7Xr_JZ=yg at mail.gmail.com>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8
> >
> > The moisture is below the forward port light, forward of the forward most
> > shroud and aft of the forward water tank fill port. Based on the survey
> we
> > are fairly certain it is coming from the portlight. Our surveyor was
> quite
> > thorough and ruled out the chainplates and the forward water fill port.
> > Doesn't mean he was right.
> >
> > I'm pretty sure I read somewhere that Catalina switched the chainplates
> > over to a full FRP surround prior to Hull 514 (which was manufactured in
> > December 1997.) Maybe someone who has performed maintenance on their
> > standing rigging with a hull number closer to mine can chime in... I
> guess
> > I could pull the forward most chainplate just as a sanity check before
> > pulling the port light. I was hoping not to pull it unnecessarily and
> > create more projects...
> >
> >
> >
> >> On Monday, May 23, 2016, Warren Updike <wupdike at hotmail.com> wrote:
> >>
> >> So, where exactly is the moisture in the deck? I understand it is below
> >> the port; but, which port? And, where in relation to any of the
> shrouds? Is
> >> it possible that a failed chain plate bedding is causing the moisture in
> >> the deck?
> >> On early 320s, the chain plate openings through the deck left exposed
> the
> >> balsa core to any moisture seeping in. Somewhere in the provenance of
> the
> >> 320, this was changed so that the cuts in the deck went thought solid
> >> fiberglass. We don't seem to know when this change took place. Perhaps,
> >> another member can report on their hull number and this change.
> >> On our #62, we found that the leaking chain plates caused the core to be
> >> wetted. We had to remove the wet core, dry out the deck and fill the
> void
> >> with filled epoxy to prevent this happening again. Problem solved.
> >> You should know the situation with your boat. The fact that you may not
> be
> >> seeing moisture in the cabin around the chain plate passage doesn't mean
> >> that you are in the clear.
> >>
> >> Warren and Pattie Updike
> >> 1994 C320 "Warr de Mar" #62
> >> Middle River, Chesapeake Bay
> >>
> >> -----Original Message-----
> >> From: Troy Dunn [mailto:troutwarrior at gmail.com <javascript:;>]
> >> Sent: Saturday, May 21, 2016 5:14 PM
> >> To: C320-List at catalina320.com <javascript:;>
> >> Subject: Re: [C320-list] Hull #514
> >>
> >> Warren and Pattie
> >>
> >> Not sure of anything. Our surveyor noted some raised moisture level in
> >> the decking below the port light and reccomended rebedding as our number
> >> one priority before moving on to more cosmetic items. We did all the
> >> reccomended items with all the opening ports, thorough cleaning, armour
> all
> >> on the seals, took apart the dogs, tried rejuvenating the orings, etc.
> I
> >> think given the moisture situation, we have little choice but to pull
> the
> >> port. Given the age of the ports if I have to pull it...it gets
> replaced.
> >> I'd be surprised if a leaking o-ring on the dogs would steer moisture
> >> into the decking...seems like that would just end up running down the
> >> woodwork, or onto the setee in the cabin?
> >>
> >> Troy and Kim Dunn
> >> Hull #514, (still working on the name)
> >> Tidewater Marina, Havre De Grace, MD
> >>
> >> On Saturday, May 21, 2016, Warren Updike <wupdike at hotmail.com
> >> <javascript:;>> wrote:
> >>
> >>> Troy and Kim, welcome to the C320 club. FYI, all the messages on this
> >> list
> >>> are archived on a Google group, here:
> >>> http://groups.google.com/group/c320-list Be sure to search here for
> >>> information of your interest.
> >>> Are you sure your leak is from the gasket/frame? Common port leaks are
> >>> also from the lock handles. There are "O" rings in the handles that can
> >> be
> >>> replaced. Also, the screw can adjust the tension on the closure.
> >>> Many of us with the split-ring frame have found that where the gasket
> is
> >>> visible in the split from the outside can be a source of leak. It may
> not
> >>> be necessary to pull the port and replace the whole gasket, a job
> which I
> >>> hear is a real bear. I've pulled out the parts of the gasket in the
> ring
> >>> split, taped, and filled with black LifeCalk. The repair is
> water-tight,
> >>> looks good, and has held for more than 5 years.
> >>>
> >>> Warren and Pattie Updike
> >>> 1994 C320 "Warr de Mar" #62
> >>> Middle River, Chesapeake Bay
> >>>
> >>> -----Original Message-----
> >>> From: Troy Dunn [mailto:troutwarrior at gmail.com <javascript:;>
> >> <javascript:;>]
> >>> Sent: Wednesday, May 18, 2016 8:41 PM
> >>> To: C320-List at catalina320.com <javascript:;> <javascript:;>
> >>> Subject: [C320-list] Hull #514
> >>>
> >>> Hello all-
> >>>
> >>> Thank you for all the great information and posts from fellow 320
> owners.
> >>> My wife and I recently purchased Hull #514, and this 'forum' has been
> >> very
> >>> helpful throughout the purchase process and in answering some very
> basic
> >>> questions that might have elicited a chuckle or two from the crowd.
> >>>
> >>> The previous owner of our boat treated her well, and we have relatively
> >> few
> >>> 'projects' to attend to while we learn her quirks. So far we've only
> >> been
> >>> able to get her out a couple of times since closing. We nosed her out
> >> for
> >>> a couple of hours mid morning this Sunday but anyone who sails on the
> >> upper
> >>> Chesapeake can tell you it wasn't a good day to be out in an unfamiliar
> >>> vessel.
> >>>
> >>> The only real project we must attend to relatively quickly is a
> starboard
> >>> opening port light that has just a tad of moisture in the surrounding
> >>> deck. I think this probably means that our hull does not have a solid
> >>> fiberglass cut out for this port. Before I pull the port and replace
> >> and
> >>> rebed a new port light I was wondering if anyone with a close hull
> number
> >>> can tell me if they have exposed core where these ports are? Or do
> they
> >>> all have exposed core? I'm currently planning to remediate the core and
> >> use
> >>> epoxy to seal out moisture in the future. I've been delaying this
> >> project
> >>> in anticipation of a prolonged project if I need to attend to any core
> >>> issues, but I need to get going soon.
> >>>
> >>> Thanks in advance for any help!
> >>>
> >>> Troy and Kim Dunn
> >>> Hull #514, (still working on the name)
> >>> Tidewater Marina, Havre De Grace, MD
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Message: 5
> > Date: Tue, 24 May 2016 11:04:26 +0100
> > From: Graeme Clark <cg at skyflyer.co.uk>
> > To: C320-List at Catalina320.com
> > Subject: Re: [C320-list] Hull #514
> > Message-ID: <A3220B14-4798-4CA0-B40C-B7EF711C099D at skyflyer.co.uk>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252
> >
> > If you DO decide to remove the port-light frames in entirety, a couple
> of points worth noting: not all the screws are the same length, so note
> which goes where. Its not that bad a job, you just need to go carefully and
> take your time. I was able to extract the ports without damage by using a
> putty knife to slowly work around the gap between frame and hull to free
> off the grip of the sealant. Over enthusiastic effort there, especially
> using a lever, will bend the frame. The source of many of my leaks has
> been traced to tiny amounts of dirt on the perspex or the rubber seals.
> Finally I gave up buying new Lewmar port-light seals which are expensive
> (over here, anyway) and hard to fit, and instead use 8mm neoprene cord that
> is caulked into the corner of the frame. About $1 a time and replaced in
> ten minutes every couple of years.
> >
> > Graeme
> > 366, Jaskar
> >> On 21 May 2016, at 22:13, Troy Dunn <troutwarrior at gmail.com> wrote:
> >>
> >> Warren and Pattie
> >>
> >> Not sure of anything. Our surveyor noted some raised moisture level in
> >> the decking below the port light and reccomended rebedding as our number
> >> one priority before moving on to more cosmetic items. We did all the
> >> reccomended items with all the opening ports, thorough cleaning, armour
> all
> >> on the seals, took apart the dogs, tried rejuvenating the orings, etc.
> I
> >> think given the moisture situation, we have little choice but to pull
> the
> >> port. Given the age of the ports if I have to pull it...it gets
> replaced.
> >> I'd be surprised if a leaking o-ring on the dogs would steer moisture
> >> into the decking...seems like that would just end up running down the
> >> woodwork, or onto the setee in the cabin?
> >>
> >> Troy and Kim Dunn
> >> Hull #514, (still working on the name)
> >> Tidewater Marina, Havre De Grace, MD
> >>
> >>> On Saturday, May 21, 2016, Warren Updike <wupdike at hotmail.com> wrote:
> >>>
> >>> Troy and Kim, welcome to the C320 club. FYI, all the messages on this
> list
> >>> are archived on a Google group, here:
> >>> http://groups.google.com/group/c320-list Be sure to search here for
> >>> information of your interest.
> >>> Are you sure your leak is from the gasket/frame? Common port leaks are
> >>> also from the lock handles. There are "O" rings in the handles that
> can be
> >>> replaced. Also, the screw can adjust the tension on the closure.
> >>> Many of us with the split-ring frame have found that where the gasket
> is
> >>> visible in the split from the outside can be a source of leak. It may
> not
> >>> be necessary to pull the port and replace the whole gasket, a job
> which I
> >>> hear is a real bear. I've pulled out the parts of the gasket in the
> ring
> >>> split, taped, and filled with black LifeCalk. The repair is
> water-tight,
> >>> looks good, and has held for more than 5 years.
> >>>
> >>> Warren and Pattie Updike
> >>> 1994 C320 "Warr de Mar" #62
> >>> Middle River, Chesapeake Bay
> >>>
> >>> -----Original Message-----
> >>> From: Troy Dunn [mailto:troutwarrior at gmail.com <javascript:;>]
> >>> Sent: Wednesday, May 18, 2016 8:41 PM
> >>> To: C320-List at catalina320.com <javascript:;>
> >>> Subject: [C320-list] Hull #514
> >>>
> >>> Hello all-
> >>>
> >>> Thank you for all the great information and posts from fellow 320
> owners.
> >>> My wife and I recently purchased Hull #514, and this 'forum' has been
> very
> >>> helpful throughout the purchase process and in answering some very
> basic
> >>> questions that might have elicited a chuckle or two from the crowd.
> >>>
> >>> The previous owner of our boat treated her well, and we have
> relatively few
> >>> 'projects' to attend to while we learn her quirks. So far we've only
> been
> >>> able to get her out a couple of times since closing. We nosed her
> out for
> >>> a couple of hours mid morning this Sunday but anyone who sails on the
> upper
> >>> Chesapeake can tell you it wasn't a good day to be out in an unfamiliar
> >>> vessel.
> >>>
> >>> The only real project we must attend to relatively quickly is a
> starboard
> >>> opening port light that has just a tad of moisture in the surrounding
> >>> deck. I think this probably means that our hull does not have a solid
> >>> fiberglass cut out for this port. Before I pull the port and replace
> and
> >>> rebed a new port light I was wondering if anyone with a close hull
> number
> >>> can tell me if they have exposed core where these ports are? Or do
> they
> >>> all have exposed core? I'm currently planning to remediate the core
> and use
> >>> epoxy to seal out moisture in the future. I've been delaying this
> project
> >>> in anticipation of a prolonged project if I need to attend to any core
> >>> issues, but I need to get going soon.
> >>>
> >>> Thanks in advance for any help!
> >>>
> >>> Troy and Kim Dunn
> >>> Hull #514, (still working on the name)
> >>> Tidewater Marina, Havre De Grace, MD
> >
> > ???????????????????
> > I work irregular hours and often write emails late in the evening and at
> weekends; that doesn?t mean I expect you to do the same; reply when
> convenient!
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Message: 6
> > Date: Tue, 24 May 2016 10:48:45 +0000 (UTC)
> > From: Robert Dean <robrtdean at yahoo.com>
> > To: "C320-List at Catalina320.com" <C320-List at Catalina320.com>
> > Subject: Re: [C320-list] Yanmar starting problem
> > Message-ID:
> > <190062106.1690593.1464086925495.JavaMail.yahoo at mail.yahoo.com>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8
> >
> > Brian
> > ?Thanks for the reply.That is one of the things I did over the winter. I
> found the service advisory of Nov 2000 and I call Yanmar and talked to them
> about it. Yanmar was very good,they gave me a list of parts needed to
> eliminate the check valve from the system.
> > Bob
> >
> > From: Brian Borchers <slaintec320 at gmail.com>
> > To: C320-List at Catalina320.com
> > Sent: Monday, May 23, 2016 5:09 PM
> > Subject: Re: [C320-list] Yanmar starting problem
> >
> > Bob,
> >
> > This was a very common problem with Yanmars produced in late 90?s, I do
> not recall the exact time line.? However, there is a Service Bulletin
> posted not the Catalina 320 Association web page about the issue.? I had a
> similar problem and it was an easy fix once identified.? Hope this helps:
> >
> >
> > 2.? Yanmar Service Bulletin - Hard Starting <
> http://www.catalina320.com/filemgmt/index.php?id=75>
> > After sitting for a week or so my engine would crank for a long time
> before starting. The problem was getting a little worse each year. Mack
> Boring suggested that I make this modification to the fuel lines. Now the
> engine starts almost immediately. (Jeff Church)
> > by Karl Mielenhausen <
> http://www.catalina320.com/users.php?mode=profile&uid=709> on 10/14
> 01:16PM - FileMgmt <
> http://www.catalina320.com/search.php?query=yanmar+starting+&keyType=all&type=filemgmt&mode=search>
> - 332 Hits
> >
> > You will have to go to the web site and open the above link and download
> the PDF file from Mack Boring.?
> >
> > Brian Borchers
> > Slainte #609
> >
> >> On May 23, 2016, at 3:30 PM, Chris Burti <clburti at gmail.com> wrote:
> >>
> >> Bob,
> >> The "crush" washer in the upper bleed screw port, just before the
> injectors
> >> is made using a nickle alloy that is intended to be soft enough to form
> a
> >> seal when tightened. If it is over-tightened or if it has been replaced
> >> with a stainless steel washer, it can cause the symptoms that you
> describe.
> >> It is cheap enough to try replacing it before pulling the injectors.
> >>
> >> Fair winds,
> >> Chris Burti,
> >> Commitment, #867
> >> Washington, NC
> >>
> >> Chris Burti
> >> Farmville, NC
> >>
> >>
> >>> On Mon, May 23, 2016 at 3:07 PM, Robert Dean <robrtdean at yahoo.com>
> wrote:
> >>>
> >>> I have hull 550, it's a 1998 with a Yanmar 3GM30. Last fall it became
> hard
> >>> to start after it sat for a few days. Once it started it ran a little
> rough
> >>> for a minute or two than ran fine. After it ran it would start with
> just
> >>> the touch of the starter button.If it sat for a few hours it would
> still
> >>> start right up. It is getting air in the fuel lines some how.Over the
> >>> winter I did away with the check valve on the fuel line at the injector
> >>> pump per Yanmar service advisory 11-1-2000.? I replaced the Racor
> filter
> >>> element and gaskets and the Yanmar filter element and o-ring. I
> replaced
> >>> the fuel hose from the tank to the Racor? and from Racor to the lift
> pump,I
> >>> also replaced the line that goes around the dipstick. I replace all the
> >>> copper seals.Everything is new from the fuel tank to injector pump,but
> I
> >>> still have the same problem. I had a mechanic look at it,he couldn't
> find
> >>> any leaks. The mechanic did say it might be an injector leaking.
> Before I
> >>> go to the expense of replacing injectors, I thought? I would ask if
> anyone
> >>> else had this problem.
> >>> Bob DeanJust Chillin 550Worton Creek
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Message: 7
> > Date: Tue, 24 May 2016 07:02:28 -0400
> > From: Warren Updike <wupdike at hotmail.com>
> > To: <C320-List at Catalina320.com>
> > Subject: Re: [C320-list] Not-Holding-Tank Leak
> > Message-ID: <COL129-DS1373D517D8A7D929560224BE4F0 at phx.gbl>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> >
> > We had a troublesome leak that was coming from the flex-hose in the head
> > sink, the one that feeds the faucet/shower head. It was hard to find as
> it
> > only leaked at the connection behind the sink when the water was running.
> > The fittings are British standards and it took me a while to find a
> > replacement online. About a week later, I was in our marina store and
> there
> > on the wall were three new flex-hoses. Go figure.
> > On #62, any water under the head deck runs into the bilge in the lower
> left
> > corner as you are looking at the thru-hulls. It wasn't until I stuffed
> this
> > small space with a rag that I saw the water show.
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Michael Rauh [mailto:raceannouncer at verizon.net]
> > Sent: Sunday, May 22, 2016 4:22 PM
> > To: C320-List at Catalina320.com
> > Subject: Re: [C320-list] Not-Holding-Tank Leak
> >
> > Using colored water is an interesting approach. You might try checking
> the
> > shower sump, sink drain, and the water inlet to the toilet as potential
> > weeping points.
> >
> > Mike
> > On Your Mark
> > #408 1997
> > City Island, NY
> >
> > Sent from my iPhone
> >
> >> On May 22, 2016, at 15:42, Arthur Miller <millers1 at aol.com> wrote:
> >>
> >> I would suggest using some red food coloring in the holding tank.
> >> Also was your aft water tank totally empty....otherwise also add a
> couple
> > of gallons with
> >> A different food coloring.
> >> Not sure if all boats are plumbed the same. My shore water supply
> > connection at the boat stern joins the boat water system almost under the
> > entrance to the head.
> >> I had a small weep there that made it look like the holding tank was
> > weeping.
> >> Art. #680
> >>
> >> Sent from my iPad
> >>
> >>> On May 22, 2016, at 2:33 PM, Irving Grunes <igrunes at gmail.com> wrote:
> >>>
> >>> go sailing and see if something happens :o)
> >>>
> >>> Irv
> >>> Formerly 815
> >>>
> >>> On Sun, May 22, 2016 at 2:21 PM, Amiraults Family
> > <amiraults at sympatico.ca>
> >>> wrote:
> >>>
> >>>> All:
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>> Late last season I was finding slightly beige, slightly off-odor
> liquid
> > in
> >>>> the bilge. Discolouration on the starboard bilge wall suggested that
> the
> >>>> liquid was coming from the area of the holding tank. It had been a
> slack
> >>>> summer (no overnights) and so the contents of the tank were urine
> > heavily
> >>>> denatured with river water contributed by the race crew - sure, we do
> >>>> poorly; but there's always a cold beer at the end. In fact, the toilet
> > was
> >>>> used so infrequently that its only pump out was during fall layup. I
> > could
> >>>> think of no other starboard source for liquid since I have never had
> > water
> >>>> in the aft water tank. This was an issue to address in the spring.
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>> So, it's spring. Thinking it was either a hole in the tank or a
> >>>> failed/loose
> >>>> out-flow fitting at the tank bottom, I placed paper towel around the
> >>>> fitting
> >>>> and at the point where it was entering the bilge. I then added 15
> > gallons
> >>>> of
> >>>> fresh water by pumping it thru the flush. Nada. The bilge remains dry.
> > Can
> >>>> anyone offer insight?
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>> Regards;
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>> Brian Amirault
> >>>>
> >>>> 797 Waltzing Bear, too
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>> ---
> >>>> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
> >>>> https://www.avast.com/antivirus
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Message: 8
> > Date: Tue, 24 May 2016 07:00:31 -0500
> > From: Larry Frank <WindSwept at stx.rr.com>
> > To: <C320-List at Catalina320.com>
> > Subject: Re: [C320-list] Yanmar starting problem
> > Message-ID: <D369A9F6.862C%WindSwept at stx.rr.com>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1"
> >
> > Bob,
> >
> > I experienced a similar problem with air in the fuel on WindSwept, A 320
> > with the Westerbeke. My symptoms were different. I would run the engine
> > for about one hour and then it would begin to surge and drop RPMs. I
> > confirmed it was an air problem by replacing part of the fuel return line
> > back to the tank with clear tubing and I could see tiny air bubbles. I
> > tried to solve this problem by fixing many things, none of them which
> > needed fixing. I probably struggled with this for a year or more. Even
> > my mechanic was at a loss. Finally the problem mysteriously disappeared
> > when I replaced a leaking fuel tank. I am now convinced that the problem
> > was a leak in the top of the dip tube that sucks the fuel from inside
> the
> > tank to the primary filter. I don?t know how one could test this or
> > confirm this is the problem without removing it and somehow checking it.
> > I think the dip tube can be removed from the tank but am not sure. This
> > may not be your issue but if you haven?t given it consideration it might
> > be worth thinking about.
> >
> > Larry
> > WindSwept
> > C320 #246
> >
> >> On 5/24/16, 5:48 AM, "Robert Dean" <robrtdean at yahoo.com> wrote:
> >>
> >> Brian
> >> Thanks for the reply.That is one of the things I did over the winter. I
> >> found the service advisory of Nov 2000 and I call Yanmar and talked to
> >> them about it. Yanmar was very good,they gave me a list of parts needed
> >> to eliminate the check valve from the system.
> >> Bob
> >>
> >> From: Brian Borchers <slaintec320 at gmail.com>
> >> To: C320-List at Catalina320.com
> >> Sent: Monday, May 23, 2016 5:09 PM
> >> Subject: Re: [C320-list] Yanmar starting problem
> >>
> >> Bob,
> >>
> >> This was a very common problem with Yanmars produced in late 90?s, I do
> >> not recall the exact time line. However, there is a Service Bulletin
> >> posted not the Catalina 320 Association web page about the issue. I had
> >> a similar problem and it was an easy fix once identified. Hope this
> >> helps:
> >>
> >>
> >> 2. Yanmar Service Bulletin - Hard Starting
> >> <http://www.catalina320.com/filemgmt/index.php?id=75>
> >> After sitting for a week or so my engine would crank for a long time
> >> before starting. The problem was getting a little worse each year. Mack
> >> Boring suggested that I make this modification to the fuel lines. Now
> the
> >> engine starts almost immediately. (Jeff Church)
> >> by Karl Mielenhausen
> >> <http://www.catalina320.com/users.php?mode=profile&uid=709> on 10/14
> >> 01:16PM - FileMgmt
> >> <
> http://www.catalina320.com/search.php?query=yanmar+starting+&keyType=all&
> >> type=filemgmt&mode=search> - 332 Hits
> >>
> >> You will have to go to the web site and open the above link and download
> >> the PDF file from Mack Boring.
> >>
> >> Brian Borchers
> >> Slainte #609
> >>
> >>> On May 23, 2016, at 3:30 PM, Chris Burti <clburti at gmail.com> wrote:
> >>>
> >>> Bob,
> >>> The "crush" washer in the upper bleed screw port, just before the
> >>> injectors
> >>> is made using a nickle alloy that is intended to be soft enough to form
> >>> a
> >>> seal when tightened. If it is over-tightened or if it has been replaced
> >>> with a stainless steel washer, it can cause the symptoms that you
> >>> describe.
> >>> It is cheap enough to try replacing it before pulling the injectors.
> >>>
> >>> Fair winds,
> >>> Chris Burti,
> >>> Commitment, #867
> >>> Washington, NC
> >>>
> >>> Chris Burti
> >>> Farmville, NC
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> On Mon, May 23, 2016 at 3:07 PM, Robert Dean <robrtdean at yahoo.com>
> >>> wrote:
> >>>
> >>>> I have hull 550, it's a 1998 with a Yanmar 3GM30. Last fall it became
> >>>> hard
> >>>> to start after it sat for a few days. Once it started it ran a little
> >>>> rough
> >>>> for a minute or two than ran fine. After it ran it would start with
> >>>> just
> >>>> the touch of the starter button.If it sat for a few hours it would
> >>>> still
> >>>> start right up. It is getting air in the fuel lines some how.Over the
> >>>> winter I did away with the check valve on the fuel line at the
> injector
> >>>> pump per Yanmar service advisory 11-1-2000. I replaced the Racor
> >>>> filter
> >>>> element and gaskets and the Yanmar filter element and o-ring. I
> >>>> replaced
> >>>> the fuel hose from the tank to the Racor and from Racor to the lift
> >>>> pump,I
> >>>> also replaced the line that goes around the dipstick. I replace all
> the
> >>>> copper seals.Everything is new from the fuel tank to injector pump,but
> >>>> I
> >>>> still have the same problem. I had a mechanic look at it,he couldn't
> >>>> find
> >>>> any leaks. The mechanic did say it might be an injector leaking.
> >>>> Before I
> >>>> go to the expense of replacing injectors, I thought I would ask if
> >>>> anyone
> >>>> else had this problem.
> >>>> Bob DeanJust Chillin 550Worton Creek
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Message: 9
> > Date: Tue, 24 May 2016 13:35:39 +0000 (UTC)
> > From: Bruce Hunter <swampcreek42 at yahoo.com>
> > To: "C320-List at Catalina320.com" <C320-List at Catalina320.com>, Chris
> > Burti <clburti at gmail.com>, 320 <C320-List at catalina320.com>
> > Subject: Re: [C320-list] Yanmar starting problem
> > Message-ID:
> > <1789566500.1458496.1464096939137.JavaMail.yahoo at mail.yahoo.com>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8
> >
> > Hey Bob...or anyone in the know:? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? When you replaced the
> fuel line from the tank to the Racor did you have to remove the aft water
> tank? My fuel line is starting to look a little ratty but I didn't want to
> dismantle half the boat this early in the season. Also I know I've read our
> boats have 3/8 fuel line but mine is actually 5/16's what's yours?
> > Thanks,Bruce Hunter?Nauti Time #719
> >
> > Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
> >
> > On Mon, May 23, 2016 at 3:30 PM, Chris Burti<clburti at gmail.com>
> wrote: Bob,
> > The "crush" washer in the upper bleed screw port, just before the
> injectors
> > is made using a nickle alloy that is intended to be soft enough to form a
> > seal when tightened. If it is over-tightened or if it has been replaced
> > with a stainless steel washer, it can cause the symptoms that you
> describe.
> > It is cheap enough to try replacing it before pulling the injectors.
> >
> > Fair winds,
> > Chris Burti,
> > Commitment, #867
> > Washington, NC
> >
> > Chris Burti
> > Farmville, NC
> >
> >
> >> On Mon, May 23, 2016 at 3:07 PM, Robert Dean <robrtdean at yahoo.com>
> wrote:
> >>
> >> I have hull 550, it's a 1998 with a Yanmar 3GM30. Last fall it became
> hard
> >> to start after it sat for a few days. Once it started it ran a little
> rough
> >> for a minute or two than ran fine. After it ran it would start with just
> >> the touch of the starter button.If it sat for a few hours it would still
> >> start right up. It is getting air in the fuel lines some how.Over the
> >> winter I did away with the check valve on the fuel line at the injector
> >> pump per Yanmar service advisory 11-1-2000.? I replaced the Racor filter
> >> element and gaskets and the Yanmar filter element and o-ring. I replaced
> >> the fuel hose from the tank to the Racor? and from Racor to the lift
> pump,I
> >> also replaced the line that goes around the dipstick. I replace all the
> >> copper seals.Everything is new from the fuel tank to injector pump,but I
> >> still have the same problem. I had a mechanic look at it,he couldn't
> find
> >> any leaks. The mechanic did say it might be an injector leaking. Before
> I
> >> go to the expense of replacing injectors, I thought? I would ask if
> anyone
> >> else had this problem.
> >> Bob DeanJust Chillin 550Worton Creek
> >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Message: 10
> > Date: Tue, 24 May 2016 13:35:39 +0000 (UTC)
> > From: Bruce Hunter <swampcreek42 at yahoo.com>
> > To: "C320-List at Catalina320.com" <C320-List at Catalina320.com>, Chris
> > Burti <clburti at gmail.com>, 320 <C320-List at catalina320.com>
> > Subject: Re: [C320-list] Yanmar starting problem
> > Message-ID:
> > <1789566500.1458496.1464096939137.JavaMail.yahoo at mail.yahoo.com>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8
> >
> > Hey Bob...or anyone in the know:? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? When you replaced the
> fuel line from the tank to the Racor did you have to remove the aft water
> tank? My fuel line is starting to look a little ratty but I didn't want to
> dismantle half the boat this early in the season. Also I know I've read our
> boats have 3/8 fuel line but mine is actually 5/16's what's yours?
> > Thanks,Bruce Hunter?Nauti Time #719
> >
> > Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
> >
> > On Mon, May 23, 2016 at 3:30 PM, Chris Burti<clburti at gmail.com>
> wrote: Bob,
> > The "crush" washer in the upper bleed screw port, just before the
> injectors
> > is made using a nickle alloy that is intended to be soft enough to form a
> > seal when tightened. If it is over-tightened or if it has been replaced
> > with a stainless steel washer, it can cause the symptoms that you
> describe.
> > It is cheap enough to try replacing it before pulling the injectors.
> >
> > Fair winds,
> > Chris Burti,
> > Commitment, #867
> > Washington, NC
> >
> > Chris Burti
> > Farmville, NC
> >
> >
> >> On Mon, May 23, 2016 at 3:07 PM, Robert Dean <robrtdean at yahoo.com>
> wrote:
> >>
> >> I have hull 550, it's a 1998 with a Yanmar 3GM30. Last fall it became
> hard
> >> to start after it sat for a few days. Once it started it ran a little
> rough
> >> for a minute or two than ran fine. After it ran it would start with just
> >> the touch of the starter button.If it sat for a few hours it would still
> >> start right up. It is getting air in the fuel lines some how.Over the
> >> winter I did away with the check valve on the fuel line at the injector
> >> pump per Yanmar service advisory 11-1-2000.? I replaced the Racor filter
> >> element and gaskets and the Yanmar filter element and o-ring. I replaced
> >> the fuel hose from the tank to the Racor? and from Racor to the lift
> pump,I
> >> also replaced the line that goes around the dipstick. I replace all the
> >> copper seals.Everything is new from the fuel tank to injector pump,but I
> >> still have the same problem. I had a mechanic look at it,he couldn't
> find
> >> any leaks. The mechanic did say it might be an injector leaking. Before
> I
> >> go to the expense of replacing injectors, I thought? I would ask if
> anyone
> >> else had this problem.
> >> Bob DeanJust Chillin 550Worton Creek
> >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Message: 11
> > Date: Tue, 24 May 2016 10:02:44 -0400
> > From: "Amiraults Family" <amiraults at sympatico.ca>
> > To: <c320-list at lists.catalina320.com>
> > Subject: Re: [C320-list] Not-Holding-Tank Leak
> > Message-ID: <002301d1b5c4$f1dd3a80$d597af80$@ca>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> >
> > All:
> >
> >
> >
> > Thank you for the many responses to my cry for help. I now have a lot
> more
> > to chew upon.
> >
> >
> >
> > Irv - going sailing is probably a first thing to do (my first race is
> this
> > Thursday). With a near-full holding tank, boat motion on the heel may
> reveal
> > that it's water backing up one of the tank hoses causing a leak at a
> clamp.
> >
> > Art - one of the few things it can't be is the aft water tank. It hasn't
> > been filled in 8 years but was confirmed by me to be empty on my first
> > winterization.
> >
> > Mike, Larry and Warren - I had not considered the very reasonable
> > proposition that water was slowly intruding from some other location and
> > boat motion was allowing it to move about thru hidden accesses until
> coming
> > out where it did. This might also explain colouration, as I discovered
> when
> > cleaning the lower interior following a winter fuel tank leak a year ago
> > that there is assorted construction detritus lurking in the unseen areas
> of
> > the hull.
> >
> >
> >
> > This past winter this list saved me the cost of a new bilge pump, mainly
> > thru the detailed photos and by-step instructions on how to disassemble
> and
> > service it. The pump sucked nothing in the fall but is back on the boat
> and
> > giving good service now. The member fee is NOT money wasted here. I hope
> a
> > portion of my fee makes a contribution to a successful summer association
> > gathering on the west coast. Attending one remains on my to-do list.
> >
> >
> >
> > Regards;
> >
> >
> >
> > Brian Amirault
> >
> > 797 Waltzing Bear, too
> >
> >
> >
> > ---
> > This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
> > https://www.avast.com/antivirus
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Message: 12
> > Date: Tue, 24 May 2016 10:55:29 -0400
> > From: "Jeff Hare" <Catalina at thehares.com>
> > To: <C320-List at Catalina320.com>
> > Subject: Re: [C320-list] Yanmar starting problem
> > Message-ID: <003501d1b5cc$5127be50$f3773af0$@thehares.com>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> >
> > Bruce,
> >
> > You should be able to replace the fuel line without removing the water
> tank. The hoses can be pulled through in the direction from the Racor,
> back to the tank. It could be harder to pull the other direction. May
> need to take the rubber bushings out where the hose passes through the
> fiberglass so that the new hose can be fed in.
> >
> > Good time to add shutoffs before & after the Racor like I did to
> simplify filter changes. I also made the hose that exits the Racor angle
> downward as it leaves the filter to stop any bubbles from traveling up that
> line to the secondary engine mounted filter.
> >
> > Can't comment on the hose diameter...
> >
> > We have always run 2-micron filters in both the engine mounted filter
> and the Racor. That way, the only reason the engine mounted filter should
> ever see much debris is from the bits that sneak through during the Racor
> filter, hose changes or small things that sneak past defects in the primary
> Racor. Changing hoses, there is bound to be some dust/debris.
> >
> > So, worst case, I'd run a 2u Racor and 5 or 10u engine mounted filter as
> a backup. Makes engine mounted filter changes only rarely necessary as a
> general maint. item. You should never have to change *both* filters under
> way with this technique.
> >
> > Got off track a bit.
> > -Jeff Hare
> > #809
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: C320-list [mailto:c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com] On
> Behalf Of Bruce Hunter
> > Sent: Tuesday, May 24, 2016 9:36 AM
> > To: C320-List at Catalina320.com; Chris Burti <clburti at gmail.com>; 320 <
> C320-List at catalina320.com>
> > Subject: Re: [C320-list] Yanmar starting problem
> >
> > Hey Bob...or anyone in the know: When you replaced the
> fuel line from the tank to the Racor did you have to remove the aft water
> tank? My fuel line is starting to look a little ratty but I didn't want to
> dismantle half the boat this early in the season. Also I know I've read our
> boats have 3/8 fuel line but mine is actually 5/16's what's yours?
> > Thanks,Bruce Hunter Nauti Time #719
> >
> > Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
> >
> > On Mon, May 23, 2016 at 3:30 PM, Chris Burti<clburti at gmail.com>
> wrote: Bob,
> > The "crush" washer in the upper bleed screw port, just before the
> injectors is made using a nickle alloy that is intended to be soft enough
> to form a seal when tightened. If it is over-tightened or if it has been
> replaced with a stainless steel washer, it can cause the symptoms that you
> describe.
> > It is cheap enough to try replacing it before pulling the injectors.
> >
> > Fair winds,
> > Chris Burti,
> > Commitment, #867
> > Washington, NC
> >
> > Chris Burti
> > Farmville, NC
> >
> >
> >> On Mon, May 23, 2016 at 3:07 PM, Robert Dean <robrtdean at yahoo.com>
> wrote:
> >>
> >> I have hull 550, it's a 1998 with a Yanmar 3GM30. Last fall it became
> >> hard to start after it sat for a few days. Once it started it ran a
> >> little rough for a minute or two than ran fine. After it ran it would
> >> start with just the touch of the starter button.If it sat for a few
> >> hours it would still start right up. It is getting air in the fuel
> >> lines some how.Over the winter I did away with the check valve on the
> >> fuel line at the injector pump per Yanmar service advisory 11-1-2000.
> >> I replaced the Racor filter element and gaskets and the Yanmar filter
> >> element and o-ring. I replaced the fuel hose from the tank to the
> >> Racor and from Racor to the lift pump,I also replaced the line that
> >> goes around the dipstick. I replace all the copper seals.Everything is
> >> new from the fuel tank to injector pump,but I still have the same
> >> problem. I had a mechanic look at it,he couldn't find any leaks. The
> >> mechanic did say it might be an injector leaking. Before I go to the
> >> expense of replacing injectors, I thought I would ask if anyone else
> had this problem.
> >> Bob DeanJust Chillin 550Worton Creek
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Message: 13
> > Date: Tue, 24 May 2016 11:32:45 -0400
> > From: millers1 at aol.com
> > To: C320-List at Catalina320.com
> > Subject: Re: [C320-list] Yanmar starting problem
> > Message-ID: <154e3659249-5ba3-e3c5 at webprd-a46.mail.aol.com>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
> >
> > Bob, interesting problem.... I suspect your engine newer and not part
> of the problem. Mine is piped as shown modified....
> > Click on 1st link in para.2 below...... then on hard starting......
> > A
> >
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Brian Borchers <slaintec320 at gmail.com>
> > To: C320-List <C320-List at Catalina320.com>
> > Sent: Mon, May 23, 2016 5:09 pm
> > Subject: Re: [C320-list] Yanmar starting problem
> >
> > Bob,
> >
> > This was a very common problem with Yanmars produced in late 90?s, I do
> not recall the exact time line. However, there is a Service Bulletin
> posted not the Catalina 320 Association web page about the issue. I had a
> similar problem and it was an easy fix once identified. Hope this helps:
> >
> >
> > 2. Yanmar Service Bulletin - Hard Starting <
> http://www.catalina320.com/filemgmt/index.php?id=75>
> > After sitting for a week or so my engine would crank for a long time
> before starting. The problem was getting a little worse each year. Mack
> Boring suggested that I make this modification to the fuel lines. Now the
> engine starts almost immediately. (Jeff Church)
> > by Karl Mielenhausen <
> http://www.catalina320.com/users.php?mode=profile&uid=709> on 10/14
> 01:16PM - FileMgmt <
> http://www.catalina320.com/search.php?query=yanmar+starting+&keyType=all&type=filemgmt&mode=search>
> - 332 Hits
> >
> > You will have to go to the web site and open the above link and download
> the PDF file from Mack Boring.
> >
> > Brian Borchers
> > Slainte #609
> >
> >> On May 23, 2016, at 3:30 PM, Chris Burti <clburti at gmail.com> wrote:
> >>
> >> Bob,
> >> The "crush" washer in the upper bleed screw port, just before the
> injectors
> >> is made using a nickle alloy that is intended to be soft enough to form
> a
> >> seal when tightened. If it is over-tightened or if it has been replaced
> >> with a stainless steel washer, it can cause the symptoms that you
> describe.
> >> It is cheap enough to try replacing it before pulling the injectors.
> >>
> >> Fair winds,
> >> Chris Burti,
> >> Commitment, #867
> >> Washington, NC
> >>
> >> Chris Burti
> >> Farmville, NC
> >>
> >>
> >>> On Mon, May 23, 2016 at 3:07 PM, Robert Dean <robrtdean at yahoo.com>
> wrote:
> >>>
> >>> I have hull 550, it's a 1998 with a Yanmar 3GM30. Last fall it became
> hard
> >>> to start after it sat for a few days. Once it started it ran a little
> rough
> >>> for a minute or two than ran fine. After it ran it would start with
> just
> >>> the touch of the starter button.If it sat for a few hours it would
> still
> >>> start right up. It is getting air in the fuel lines some how.Over the
> >>> winter I did away with the check valve on the fuel line at the injector
> >>> pump per Yanmar service advisory 11-1-2000. I replaced the Racor
> filter
> >>> element and gaskets and the Yanmar filter element and o-ring. I
> replaced
> >>> the fuel hose from the tank to the Racor and from Racor to the lift
> pump,I
> >>> also replaced the line that goes around the dipstick. I replace all the
> >>> copper seals.Everything is new from the fuel tank to injector pump,but
> I
> >>> still have the same problem. I had a mechanic look at it,he couldn't
> find
> >>> any leaks. The mechanic did say it might be an injector leaking.
> Before I
> >>> go to the expense of replacing injectors, I thought I would ask if
> anyone
> >>> else had this problem.
> >>> Bob DeanJust Chillin 550Worton Creek
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > End of C320-list Digest, Vol 2622, Issue 1
> > ******************************************
>
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