[C320-list] Microwave replacement

Welch, Myron D myron-welch at uiowa.edu
Mon Apr 3 14:41:07 PDT 2017


Here is my experience with replacing the microwave that I posted when the question was asked in September of 2014.  Feel free to contact me if I can be of any further help.


I replaced the microwave in my 1995, #238 320 last June.  It was impossible to find one as small as the original and the closest I could find was a slightly larger Frigidaire 700 Watt, .7 cubic inch unit from Lowes.  I also found other brands that were the same size from other dealers.  Although the information is at the boat, I believe this is the unit I purchased:

http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?partNumber=375272-2251-FFCM0724LW&langId=-1&storeId=10151&productId=3551096&catalogId=10051&cmRelshp=req&rel=nofollow&cId=PDIO1

I had to remove some of the trim piece on the top to match the height of the new microwave.  The top of the cavity slopes down in the back and the higher, deeper unit would only go in about 3/4 of the way. I found that there is an extra board under the old microwave to make it level with the bottom frame/trim.  I removed that board which allowed the new microwave to sit low enough that it would fit to the back of the box and below the cabinet frame/trim.  It took a little extra push to get it over the bottom frame/trim and it is tight enough that I did not have to put in screws from the bottom to hold it in place.  Good luck, measure carefully and be patient.

Myron Welch
Wind Instrument #238
Iowa City, Iowa
Grace Memorial Harbor
Elk Rapids, Michigan



On Apr 3, 2017, at 2:49 PM, Allan S Field <allan.field at verizon.net<mailto:allan.field at verizon.net>> wrote:

We had to replace the microwave on our new-to-us C387.  The box was 10
inches high and the best we could find was a 10 1/8-inch high Magic Chef
microwave from Home Depot.  We removed the little rubber front legs on the
front-bottom then literally jammed the thing into the space with the rigid
back legs digging a groove into the bottom of the shelf.  We pre-drilled
1-inch holes into the bottom of the shelf to allow for cooling before
jamming the thing into the space.  It's not coming out easily and certainly
not in any kind of seaway. John Middleton of Sail Annapolis recommended this
solution to us so it may also work for the C320.  Hope this helps!

Allan S. Field
Sea Shadow - C387, #103
Columbia, MD

-----Original Message-----
From: C320-list [mailto:c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com] On Behalf
Of Jeffrey Brown
Sent: Monday, April 3, 2017 3:35 PM
To: C320-List at Catalina320.com<mailto:C320-List at Catalina320.com>
Subject: Re: [C320-list] Microwave replacement

Was is a direct replacement or did you need to modify the space so it would
fit?

Jeff Brown
949-350-5123

On Apr 3, 2017, at 12:32 PM, Brian/Carol McLamb <bjcnmclamb at gmail.com<mailto:bjcnmclamb at gmail.com>>
wrote:

Our's is a Tapan.  Could not find model number or any other
identification.  Presumably the size will dictate the correct model.
Brian s/v Serenity # 1075

Sent from my iPad

On Apr 2, 2017, at 10:15 PM, Jamie Pett <JPett at jp2architects.com<mailto:JPett at jp2architects.com>> wrote:

Just launch Bella Luna and upon getting power systems back online found
the Samsung microwave non- responsive (stuck with a "PL30" power level
readout and will not clear, reset , nothing even after unplugging).

Any recommendations on replacements ?  Are these typical store-bought
microwaves or have they been marinized or toughened up ?

Thanks for any recommendations.

Jamie Pett
1999 C320 Bella Luna #614
Bodkin Creek, Chesapeake Bay

Sent from my iPad

On Mar 26, 2017, at 4:33 PM, Warren Updike <wupdike at hotmail.com<mailto:wupdike at hotmail.com>> wrote:

1. You don't want to pay $100/hr for a marine electrician or engine
mechanic 2. You find working on your boat part of the
pride/challenge of ownership 3. You have time to devote to your boat
maintenance 4. You like to learn Then, go to Amazon and search "
calder boat maintenance" and make the best $35 investment in your boat
with Calder's "Boatowners Mechanical and Electrical Manual." If it's
electrical, electronic, or mechanical, Nigel covers it in this book with how
it works, why it doesn't work, how to test it, and how to fix it. With care,
study, and preparation YOU can do most things on your boat.

If engines and motors are strangers to you, find someone you know to
help you in diagnosing a problem.

Every boat can be different even from the same manufacturer, so you have
to have some idea what to expect. It's possible that your alternator ground
is through the case of the alternator and through its attachments to the
engine block. It could also be a separate connection on the alternator with
a wire to ground. The positive cable will always be on a connector on the
alternator. This positive cable may go to the positive connector on the
starter. That will take the alternator output to the selected battery bank.
The other connections on the alternator are for control of the alternator.
Nigel Calder will explain all this and show you how to test each setup. You
must know the dangers as well as the procedures. Improper contacts with
battery cables can melt/weld tools... and hurt you too.

Warren and Pattie Updike
1994 C320 "Warr de Mar" #62
Middle River, Chesapeake Bay

-----Original Message-----
From: John Meyers [mailto:jcmeyers7 at gmail.com]
Sent: Saturday, March 25, 2017 8:14 PM
To: C320-List at catalina320.com<mailto:C320-List at catalina320.com>
Subject: Re: [C320-list] Alternator to batteries

Thank you for that important education.

I am still not an electrician but now I know more.

John Meyers

On Mar 25, 2017 8:01 PM, "Stephen Cox" <scox at timmin.com<mailto:scox at timmin.com>> wrote:


I am no electrician so I don't know if this will work. I assume
that there are wires from the alternator directly to the battery(?)
If so can the positive wire (maybe the negative wire too) be
CAREFULLY disconnected from the battery after the engine is running
and have a volt meter test the output on those disconnected wire?

DO NOT DISCONNECT THE WIRES WHILE ENGINE IS RUNNING!!!!

First off you don't need to disconnect the wires to measure the
voltage on them.

Secondly, if you run the alternator without a load it is equivalent
to switching the 0-1-2 switch through the 0 position when running
and will most likely fry the alternator diodes.



Stephen Cox
Tegwen #1141





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