[C320-list] Perkins Perama M30 Overheating

[Mark Cole]

Thanks, Christian and Frank!  Pulling the heat exchanger cylinder out sounds a lot more straight forward than I was preparing myself for.

The antifreeze in the engine was green.  The biggest clue I have to lead me to think the heat exchanger is breached is that the unit is still full up to the top when you remove the pressure cap.  Two gallons of antifreeze went into the bilge and water came from somewhere to fill the fresh water side back up.  I did check the oil dip stick and the level was the same as when I checked it at the beginning of the trip and still looked like oil, not coffee.  I’ll take the unit apart tomorrow and see.

Mark

> On Aug 27, 2017, at 2:34 PM, Christian <ccaper at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> How is your oil looking?  If it's milkly/coffee cream at all, then coolant
> has gotten in your oil.  I only ask because of the color of the smoke you
> reported.
> 
> The antifreeze in your bilge was likely because you got over the boiling
> point of the antifreeze. On the receptacle container, there should be a
> vent hose that leads to your engine sump, and it probably boiled out of the
> receptacle container into the sump.  So check your coolant level as you are
> likely low.
> 
> What kind of anti freeze are you using?  Green, purple, or pink color?  The
> purple color has very little anti freeze "smell" to it.  Pink color has
> some.  The green color has the most smell.
> 
> I don't think you "blew" your heat exchanger.  I recently cooked the hell
> out of mine, and it survived.  They are hearty.  The end cap on both sides
> of the heat exchanger have two clamps.  Smaller diameter clamp clamps onto
> the heat exchange tube, and prevents the raw water from mixing with the
> anti freeze.  Larger clamp is what secures the cap to the radiator unit,
> keeping raw water from leaking.  I guess it's possible in high heat, if
> smaller clamp wasn't tight, your raw water and antifreeze could mix.
> 
> The heat exchange unit is easy to pull, as described above.  Should have
> two large holes on one side of tube, and then a pin hole on the bottom side
> of the tube.  Inspect for corrosion build up when you peer inside the two
> large holes on the side of the tube, and peer at the "straws" on each end
> of the tube and ensure clear.  I like to put the tube back in with the
> large tube side holes facing up, pin size hole facing down.
> 
> I don't know anyone that had tried the acid clean of the hat exchange, but
> last April I attended a diesel class at Crowley's in Chicago, and they
> listed that as a service they recommend on corroded heat exchange units.
> 
> But, like others have said, intermittent heating problems suggest raw water
> intake flow problems or torn impeller.
> 
> Eager to hear what you find, and best of luck.
> 
> Christian Caperton
> 1994 C320 "Canuck" #138
> Monroe Harbor, Chicago, IL