[C320-list] Cruising Code Zero (Drifter) Questions

Scott Thompson surprise at thompson87.com
Mon Feb 13 15:04:53 PST 2017


Very interesting discussion! Regarding the bowsprit question, I've 
worried that the anchor roller isn't really designed to handle 
significant upward loads. The bail itself might be able to take it, but 
is there enough backing plate below the deck to ensure that the entire 
assembly doesn't start ripping away from the hull in an unexpected squall?

And has anyone tried to add a sprit device to a 320? Would be interested 
in the details if so.

Scott


On 2/11/2017 4:53 PM, denny.browne at me.com wrote:
> Great idea. I have two asymmetrical spinnakers and two conventional
> spinnakers that I use for racing and there's considerable variability. A
> Code Zero is a very flat sail designed to be flown on a tightly stretched
> luff cord, usually made of vectran or some other high tech very strong very
> low stretch single braid. Most cruising spinnakers, or gennakers, are fuller
> and larger cut than that. They're more versatile than a Code Zero, but won't
> fly quite as close to the wind. The secret to sailing high is the high tech
> luff cord, but don't forget that you need a high tech halyard otherwise the
> halyard stretches. The racing owners who have bought a Code Zero want to use
> it whenever possible, the crew usually want a headsail, and the crew are
> USUALLY right.
>
> See my thoughts on your questions below IN CAPS FOR EASY VISIBILITY (not
> shouting).
>
> Denny Browne
> Denny.Browne at Me.com
> 310-408-9591
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: C320-list [mailto:c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com] On Behalf
> Of Richard Smith
> Sent: Saturday, February 11, 2017 1:15 PM
> To: c320-list at lists.catalina320.com
> Subject: [C320-list] Cruising Code Zero (Drifter) Questions
>
> Hi All -
>
> I'm thinking about adding a cruising code zero to my 320 to help out on
> those low wind days that we get all too much of on Lake Ontario.  Although
> my wife and I have sailed our 320 for many years, we've never used any sails
> other than our 135 genoa and in-mast main so I'm afraid that I'm a bit of a
> noob when it comes to sails like this and I have a bunch of questions.
>
>
> 1.      Do they really work to move the boat in 3-8 knots of wind? YES, ONCE
> YOU'VE TRIED IT, YOU'LL LOVE IT. AT 50 DEGREES OFF THE WIND, THEY'RE MUCH
> MORE REWARDING THAN YOU'LL FIND YOUR 135 TO BE IN LIGHT AIR. AT 8 KNOTS,
> YOU'LL PROBABLY WANT TO GO BACK TO THE 135 THOUGH.
>
> 2.      Can you really sail on a close reach in light wind with one of these
> sails? YES. CLOSE REACH, NOT CLOSE HAULED. AS THE WIND BUILDS, YOU'LL WANT
> TO FALL OFF A LITTLE AS THE LOADS ON THE SAIL AND SHEETS GROW QUICKLY.
>
> 3.      What should the luff, foot and leech dimensions be for a
> 'drifter'/code zero for our 320's?  (I have a chance to buy a drifter for a
> Catalina 34 which the fellow tells me will work but I'm not sure if it will
> or not) I WOULD ENCOURAGE YOU TO START WITH THAT SAIL, IF HE'LL SELL IT FOR
> A GOOD PRICE. EXPERIMENT WITH IT, THAT'S THE FUN PART. MY SMALL GENNAKER IS
> 43'4" ON THE LUFF, THE LARGE ONE IS 44'8" (I THINK). THERE ARE SOME STANDARD
> SIZES AVAILABLE FROM CATALINA DIRECT, NORTH SAILS DIRECT AND A COUPLE OF
> OTHERS. TALKING TO A SAILMAKER WHERE YOU SAIL IS A VERY GOOD IDEA.
>
> 4.      Should we opt for the fancy continuous furling?  If so, how will
> that affect the dimensions of the sail? I DON'T HAVE THAT, AND DON'T REALLY
> WANT IT, BUT I'VE SAILED DOUBLE HANDED WITH A FRIEND ON A MUCH LARGER BOAT
> AND IT WAS VERY HANDY. YOU SHOULD DEFINITELY LOOK INTO IT.
>
> 5.      Where would I lead the sheets?  Straight to the winch?  Further
> back?  Maybe a block on the aft cleats? SPINNAKER/GENNAKER SHEETS ARE
> USUALLY LEAD TO A TURNING BLOCK AFT OF THE WINCHES. CONVENTIONAL WISDOM IS
> TO ATTACH THEM TO A TOW RAIL. INITIALLY, ESPECIALLY FOR LIGHT AIR SAILING,
> YOU CAN SIMPLY RUN THE SHEETS FROM THE CLEW OUTSIDE THE LIFELINES AND
> THROUGH THE DECK CLEAT THEN FORWARD TO THE WINCH. THE FRICTION ON THE CLEAT
> DOESN'T REALLY REQUIRE A TURNING BLOCK.
>
> 6.      I notice that most people fly these from bow sprits which we don't
> have but I suspect that our stock bow roller will suffice.  Thoughts?
> Advice? I HAVE A TURNING BLOCK ATTACHED TO THE BAIL ON MY BOW ROLLER AND IT
> WORKS FINE. YOU RUN A TACK LINE, OR PENANT, THROUGH THAT BLOCK FROM THE TACK
> OF THE SAIL TO SOMEWHERE YOU CAN CLEAT THE TACK LINE. IF YOU WANT TO ADJUST
> THE TACK LINE (HIGHER ANGLE, TIGHTER TACK LINE), KEEP IN MIND THAT IT IS BY
> FAR THE MOST HEAVILY LOADED LINE ON THE SAIL. IT NEEDS TO RUN TO A WINCH.
> YOU CAN ALSO JUST USE A PENANT THAT ATTACHES TO THE BAIL.
>
> 7.      I was wondering about attaching the sail BEHIND the genoa as well.
> This would allow us to tack and gybe without furling on light days (although
> we couldn't use the genoa)  Does this sound feasible? NOT REALLY. THE SAIL
> SHOULD BE HOISTED ON A SPINNAKER HALYARD THAT EXITS THE MAST ABOVE THE
> HEADSTAY. YOU HAVE THE OPTION OF GYBING THE CLEW INSIDE THE HEADSTAY OR
> OUTSIDE ITS LUFF (OUTSIDE IS BETTER, IN MY OPINION), BUT GYBING IT INSIDE
> THE HEADSTAY WILL WRECK YOUR HALYARD FROM CHAFE ON THE MASTHEAD.
>
> 8.      Why do we drive on parkways and park on driveways? ONE OF LIFE'S
> UNANSWERED QUESTIONS, ISN'T IT?
>
> 9.      Do you have any other advice? JUST DO IT, YOU'LL NEVER STOP
> EXPERIMENTING, AND THAT'S REALLY THE FUN OF IT. AND WEAR GLOVES. THE SHEETS
> GET PRETTY LOADED.
>
> Thanks folks!  Any insights would be much appreciated!
> Cheers,
> Rich.
>
>
>



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