[C320-list] Maxwell 500 Anchor windlass maint question

Graeme Clark cg at skyflyer.co.uk
Sun Jan 22 12:19:50 PST 2017


This link shows a photo of the inside of the rear cap of the dis-assembled motor

http://tinypic.com/r/dcvqk7/9 <http://tinypic.com/r/dcvqk7/9>

You will see there are housings for four trapezoidal shaped carbon brushes, which are fitted as two pairs. Each brush has a spring behind it which keeps them in contact with the rotor as they wear (the issue I had was that my brushes were jamming in the plastic housing - whether they has somehow increased in size* since new I don't know, but I just rubbed the edges on some 120grit paper until they would slide easily in the housing again.

As you can see the brushes are paired, and where the two wires from the brushes join, that is the rear (or rather the ‘inside’) of the terminal that projects from the back of the motor housing to which the cables attach.

If you do take it apart be careful as one of those terminals (the positive one)  has an insulating washer that passes right through the cap itself so prevent any contact between it and the metal of the motor which is of course ‘ground’ or negative.

Putting it back together was a nightmare at first because you cant easily hold four brushes in position while you locate the rotor shaft into it’s bearing in the end cap. In the end I found it easier to withdraw the rotor, position the end cap correctly on the rotor and then mate the rotor/end-cap assembly with the rest of the motor case.

On the boat I was unable to remove the motor on its own without removing the entire windlass. I’m not saying it isn't possible with some fancy tool or other, but I didn't have room to access the two bolts that attach the motor to the windlass.

The current manual on the Maxwell site for the VC500 and VW500 is not the same as my windlass which is - I think -  simply called a Maxwell 500.  The more recent models seem to have a more complex gearbox, whereas the original 500 is a simple worm drive gear arrangement.  I don't know if the shaft diameters are different.

I hope to do the disassembly and oil seal replacement in the next week or two and will take plenty of photos as I do so. I will then write an article for the website.

It did occur to me to replace the bearings at the same time, but when I thought about it I realised that the motor doesn't turn very fast and it’s total operating revolutions in over 20 years is probably less than (for example) an electric drill or (34000 rpm)  router does in in a week!  The bearings really should be OK, but I will look when I disassemble it and they are cheap enough to buy if they do need replacing.

By the way, maxwell being a NZ company, all parts are metric!

Hope this helps

Graeme

*I did have gear oil leaking (which is why I’m replacing oil seals), and wondered f that has contacted the brushes and caused them to swell



> On 22 Jan 2017, at 19:47, Scott Thompson <surprise at thompson87.com> wrote:
> 
> I have never done the conversion but I have the vw500 model with the chainwheel, and based on that I think that there are differences between the vc500 and the vw500 other than just the shaft and chainwheel. The vw500 model has a clutch nut and two clutch cones -- one keyed to the shaft -- that help lock the chainwheel to the shaft when pressure is applied by tightening the clutch nut. (It also has a chain stripper, although that probably is not needed on the 320 installation given the nonstandards installation, which allows the chain to fall off by gravity.) None of those parts are present in the vc500 model. My recollection is that you can find blow up parts diagrams and/or manuals on the c320 website. I know I uploaded a scan of the vw500 manual at one time.
> 
> Scott Thompson
> 
> On 1/22/2017 2:11 PM, Graeme Clark wrote:
>> I've removed the windlass and motor from the boat and bought all the parts to renew the oil seals having already fixed a problem with the motor brushes but haven't started that job yet!
>> I looked into a replacement drum. Maxwell aren't very forthcoming but I get the impression you'd have to get a local machine shop to turn a new longer shaft as I don't think maxwell make the retrofit any more for our model
>> But in theory looking at the way it's all put together I think you could buy any chain/line wheel/drum and a decent machine shop should be able to make a shaft accordingly
>> Ask me again in3 months time!
>> Graeme
>> #366, 1996
>> 
>> Sent from mobile: please excuse typos etc.!
>> 
>> 
>>> On 22 Jan 2017, at 18:36, Scott Westwood <scottwestwood at bellsouth.net> wrote:
>>> 
>>>  Two questions:
>>> 1. Has anybody changed the anchor windlass drum from line only to a combination line and Chain?  If so any details out there?2. Any videos or how to do maint on it?  I see about changing oil and/or lubing.
>>> I am just starting to dig into this since it has not been used much in 10 years. (Previous owner never used it in 8 years).  It works fine but I want to help it live longer.  May want to use it more if I beef up the ground tackle.
>>> thoughts?
>>> Thanks,
>>> Scott Westwood scottwestwood at bellsouth.net H (919)-362-8538    C (919)-618-7185
> 

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