[C320-list] Leaking Opening Port

[Brian/Carol McLamb]

Excellent solution to the challenge. Thanks for sharing!  Brian s/v Serenity

Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 5, 2017, at 1:33 PM, jim brown <jbrown5093 at yahoo.com> wrote:
> 
> I saw another way on Youtube to remove hatches from the deck that looked easy and should work on opening ports. The Lewmar rep had a pocked full of hardwood wedges each shaped like a door stop (flat side and tapered to a point on the other). They were about 2-3 inches long and about 1/2 " wide and about an inch high on the non tapered end but obviously could be made to fit the situation.  He lightly tapped these between the deck and the hatch all around about every 2 inches (flat side on the deck). They went in initially just a smidge. When he got them all round he just kept lightly tapping each one until the hatch just slowly rose off the deck like magic. 
> Jim Brown
> 
> 
>>    On Thursday, October 5, 2017, 12:49:25 PM EDT, Ade Bateman <ade.bateman at outlook.com> wrote:  
>> 
>> On Thu, Oct 05, 2017 at 05:31:15, Rick Sulewski wrote:
>> 
>>   FYI - something to consider when replacing port lights :
>> 
>> Last year I discovered a way to easily remove/release each frame from
>> the hull in less than 20 seconds each without damage and without prying
>> off the frame from the exterior side (after removing all of the inside
>> frame retaining screws).
>> I simply leaned against the frame from the inside with a screw driver
>> placed first in the  middle of each side for about 3-5 seconds and then
>> in the middle of the lower frame section for a few seconds before I
>> could simply push the frame off the hull. Used "Goof Off" to easily
>> remove the old sealant from the hull in about 3 minutes for each port
>> after briefly scrapping off a small amount of old excess sealant left
>> after the frame released.  Most of the time was spent liberally prepping
>> the new frames with Bed It butyl rubber sealant. Installed each port
>> from the inside to place it against the exterior side of the hull from
>> the inside without the need for an extra pair of hands. Drew the frames
>> tighter with the interior frame ring over several minutes to squeeze out
>> the excess sealant that was easily removed from the exterior of the hull
>> a few days later with a razor blade.
> 
> While I've used Bed It butyl tape for resealing lots of things, I actually
> used Life Calk for re-bedding my leaking portlights (and installing a
> new replacement). I've found it more difficult to get a consistent seal
> with the tape on larger areas where you need to bend and potentially layer
> the tape. Plus you really need to tighten hardware incrementally to let the
> butyl find it's way into all the gaps. I preferred a more liquid sealant
> for doing the portlights.
> 
> Ade.
>