[C320-list] Leaking Opening Port

[Christian]

John, I actually tried the armor all trick right after you suggested when I
met you in Muskegon back in April.  I've now cleaned the plexiglas
thoroughly, cleaned the gasket with armor all, replaced the o rings, and
now replaced the gasket.  I believe my leak is coming from the 's' gasket
that I need to pick out at the frame joints.  When it rains even slightly,
very much water comes out of the frame.
-Christian

On Sat, Oct 7, 2017 at 1:16 PM, Elizabeth Schwartz <schwartz781 at optimum.net>
wrote:

> Thanks.....will give it a treatment.....Joe
>
>
> On Sat, Oct 07, 2017 at 01:38 PM, John Meyers wrote:
>
> I concur with Scott. I may not put on the implied "generous application"
>> but I soak a cloth with Armour-All and get the gaskets quite moist a
>> couple
>> times a Michigan season and the drips stop from that incursion anyway. And
>> as Scott wrote cleaning the lens is very important too.
>>
>> John Meyers
>> Muskegon, MI
>>
>> On Sat, Oct 7, 2017 at 9:24 AM, Scott Thompson wrote:
>>
>> I've found I can stop those leaks by thoroughly cleaning lens and gasket
>>> followed by generous application of Armour-All several times. But perhaps
>>> my gaskets are less worn.
>>>
>>> On Oct 5, 2017, at 1:28 PM, Elizabeth Schwartz
>>>>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>> ahoy all.....The only leak I have on #245....'95.....is on one of the
>>>>
>>> opening portlights in the salon.....leaks between the plastic lens and
>>> the
>>> gasket......would that be just the gasket to replace for
>>> fix?....Thanks...Joe
>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Thu, Oct 05, 2017 at 12:09 PM, Ade Bateman wrote:
>>>>
>>>> On Thu, Oct 05, 2017 at 05:31:15, Rick Sulewski wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>  FYI - something to consider when replacing port lights :
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Last year I discovered a way to easily remove/release each frame from
>>>>>> the hull in less than 20 seconds each without damage and without
>>>>>> prying
>>>>>> off the frame from the exterior side (after removing all of the inside
>>>>>> frame retaining screws).
>>>>>> I simply leaned against the frame from the inside with a screw driver
>>>>>> placed first in the  middle of each side for about 3-5 seconds and
>>>>>> then
>>>>>> in the middle of the lower frame section for a few seconds before I
>>>>>> could simply push the frame off the hull. Used "Goof Off" to easily
>>>>>> remove the old sealant from the hull in about 3 minutes for each port
>>>>>> after briefly scrapping off a small amount of old excess sealant left
>>>>>> after the frame released.  Most of the time was spent liberally
>>>>>>
>>>>> prepping
>>>
>>>> the new frames with Bed It butyl rubber sealant. Installed each port
>>>>>> from the inside to place it against the exterior side of the hull from
>>>>>> the inside without the need for an extra pair of hands. Drew the
>>>>>> frames
>>>>>> tighter with the interior frame ring over several minutes to squeeze
>>>>>>
>>>>> out
>>>
>>>> the excess sealant that was easily removed from the exterior of the
>>>>>>
>>>>> hull
>>>
>>>> a few days later with a razor blade.
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> While I've used Bed It butyl tape for resealing lots of things, I
>>>>>
>>>> actually
>>>
>>>> used Life Calk for re-bedding my leaking portlights (and installing a
>>>>> new replacement). I've found it more difficult to get a consistent seal
>>>>> with the tape on larger areas where you need to bend and potentially
>>>>>
>>>> layer
>>>
>>>> the tape. Plus you really need to tighten hardware incrementally to let
>>>>>
>>>> the
>>>
>>>> butyl find it's way into all the gaps. I preferred a more liquid sealant
>>>>> for doing the portlights.
>>>>>
>>>>> Ade.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>