[C320-list] Radio Remote Mounting

Scott Westwood scottwestwood at bellsouth.net
Tue Sep 12 09:03:33 PDT 2017


FWIW.  I recently added a remote mic too but... I also recently re-did all the Navigation displays/instruments and new Navpod.  The Remote mic cable had a larger connector than the RayMarine displays so I had to pull them back out first.  Then ran the larger mic cable.  Then re-ran the smaller instrument cable(s).  It was tight but it fit. Barely.  It helps if you don't overlap cables.  Even if you have to tape them together.  Taping can make it harder to feed with that number of bends but you can slick them up with cable pulling grease.  I also managed to use the same hole in the left stanchion entering the navpod but I had to enlarge it.  Yes. SS is not easy to work with.
I toyed with the idea of coming up the Engine instrument pod then going into (then out) the "empty" right side of the pedestal stanchion but I didn't need to thank goodness.  That or remove the whole stanchion and come up through deck.  Glad I didn't have to put another whole in the boat.
Mine fit.
NOTE: One of best ROI enhancements I have made to the boat. Makes a very big difference especially motoring. 
Thanks,
Scott Westwood scottwestwood at bellsouth.net H (919)-362-8538     C (919)-618-7185 

      From: Graeme Clark <cg at skyflyer.co.uk>
 To: Catalina list <C320-List at Catalina320.com> 
 Sent: Tuesday, September 12, 2017 8:24 AM
 Subject: Re: [C320-list] Radio Remote Mounting
   
Yes I have done this using the Standard Horizon RAM Mic and extension cable.

Well, to be precise, I did not run the cabling up the pedestal itself (where the engine control cables route) but through the 1 inch hoop stanchion.
The problem is that -  depending on your instrument fit - you may be struggling for space within that 1 inch stanchion , especially if there are other cables that have plugs on them!
In the end I - basically -  re-configured the whole wiring circuit for the instruments using a multicore cable that had enough cores in it to do what I needed.
This is because its not really the cores of the cables that take the space it is the outer insulating sheath. In the space that you can run (say) two separate 3-core cables, you can just as easily fit a single 10-core cable.
The stanchion just lifts out the deck once you remove the fixing screws in the base fittings that attach to the deck.
You can  - obviously -  remove the box covering the steering gear from inside the aft cabin to get access to the underneath.
In practice I had to enlarge the hole through the deck as well to get the extra cabling through it.
Again t will depend on your own instrumentation set up but you may be able to split the cabling up the two legs of the stanchion.
The RAM mic extension cable has a huge plug on it that was no way going to fit through the stanchion. So I cut it and made a new join within the instrument pod. Only the core that has the mic signal needs to be screened.
All my other instrument cabling i ran on new multicore cabling down through the stanchions and using cable ties kept it out of the way of the steering gear and ran it through the aft bulkhead and then made new connections to the old cabling using an airtight sandwich box screwed to the aft side of the aft cabin bulkhead to protect everything rom damp and splashes etc.
I wont lie - it took me the best part of two solid days work. As I had also fitted a new autopilot I also had to route a raymarine STNG cable the same way, but at least the plugs on these are quite thin.
Basically - its not impossible nor do you have to be an electrical genius, but it is fiddly and it takes time. I also had the joy (?) of having to drill extra holes in the stanchions at instrument pod level, which - being stainless steel - isn't the easiest job!
Hope this helps -  I’ll see what photos I have for this and post a link to view them if thats of any help
Graeme
#366, 1996, Jaskar

> On 12 Sep 2017, at 12:56, Chris Burti <clburti at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> Tried and removed all of the electronics wiring...no go...the only way is
> to remove all wiring and the engine cables. I mounted mine on the port side
> of the cockpit just forward of the propane locker and near the top. Not the
> ideal location of the pedestal, but functional.
> 
> Chris Burti
> Farmville, NC
> 
> 
> On Tue, Sep 12, 2017 at 6:57 AM, John Meyers <jcmeyers7 at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
>> I am looking for a way and place to mount a radio remote onto the
>> pedestal.  I have the standard Edson pedestal including the instrument pod
>> near the top over the compass. (I purchased and installed a Standard
>> Horizon GX2200 in the cabin and then bought the remote CMP31.)
>> 
>> The remote cable has a connector that won't fit easily into the conduit
>> that goes into the gauge housing on my 1997 #406. There are about a dozen
>> wires and shut off cable that uses that conduit that leads from the housing
>> down to the steering box in the aft berth.  I tried pulling the
>> disconnected wires down and there was a lot of resistance and not sure if I
>> could push/pull those wire back through after I put through the remote
>> cable.
>> 
>> Has anyone done this? Is there another place/way to mount the radio remote?
>> Any advice on what I am trying to do?
>> 
>> Thanks in advance for any help.
>> 
>> John Meyers
>> 1997 #406
>> Wind Chime
>> Muskegon, MI
>> 


   


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