[C320-list] Maxwell windlass

[P.F. Ross]

Mine stopped recently as well, but after removing forward shelf and lower
panel I was able to trace the electrical fault to the foot switch.

Seems like someone else had posted about this switch earlier, but I found
that there were no "jam" nuts on the switch connection posts.  This meant
the force of the outer nuts bearing against the electrical ring connectors
was ultimately also bearing against the plastic bottom of the switch.  Of
course one of the connections became loose, heated up and melted the
plastic enough to change the contact geometry inside the switch, stopping
all contact.

The best price I could find on the Maxwell P19001 switch was from
foundy35.com which did not seem much like a nautical supply house but I
tried them anyway.  Quick free shipping and all worked well.  Also the new
switch did come with jam nuts (i.e., two nuts on each connector post).

Easy fix, hope yours easy as well!

Frank Ross
Beta Wave #206
Naples, FL

On Tue, Apr 3, 2018 at 4:48 AM, Graeme Clark <cg at skyflyer.co.uk> wrote:

> I had same issue. On mine I found that the carbon brushes in the motor had
> swollen and jammed so we’re no longer spring against their contacts
> A quick rub on some fine grit paper to reduce size and all well again
> Graeme
>
>
> Sent from mobile: please excuse typos etc.!
>
>
> > On 3 Apr 2018, at 10:29, Warren Updike <wupdike at hotmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > Consult your owner's manual for the 12V Power Distribution diagram to
> confirm how the windlass is wired. On our hull 62, the windlass is directly
> connected to one of the 4D house batteries. Make sure that battery is in
> good condition. Check all the connections you can see behind the panel and
> on the battery.
> >
> > Now my story... windlass stopped. After removing the fwd shelf in the
> v-berth, and the panel under that, I was able to access the windlass to
> find that the power cable had allowed water to follow it to the connection
> and the connection was corroded as a result. Corrosion increases the
> resistance which creates heat and destroys the circuit. This happened
> because there was no drip loop in the wire that prevent the water from
> reaching the contact. Also, had to have the connector on the windless
> replaced. Also replaced the brushes in the motor, and changed the oil in
> the gear case. I sure hope your problem is easier to solve; but, if you
> have to access the windlass ahead of the v-berth, remove it and change the
> oil. Have it tested and serviced if necessary.
> >
> > Also, search the list archive on Google for posts about the windlass.
> Might get you more information.
> >
> > Warren and Pattie Updike
> > 1994 C320 "Warr de Mar" #62
> > Middle River, MD (Chesapeake Bay)
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Diane [mailto:dianeflr at aol.com]
> > Sent: Monday, April 02, 2018 10:04 AM
> > To: C320-List at Catalina320.com
> > Subject: [C320-list] Maxwell windlass
> >
> > Power to windlass just stopped!
> >
> > I tried pulling and pushing red button several times - no power!
> >
> > Ideas??
> >
> > Thanks, as always,
> >
> > Hull #948
> > Windy City
> > Cape Coral, FL
> >
> > Captain Diane Fowler, Sellstate Priority Realty Network.
> > Www.CapeCoralHomes.com
> > 239-850-4935
> > Sent from my iPhone
> >
> >> On Apr 2, 2018, at 8:39 AM, Art Harden <artstree at aol.com> wrote:
> >>
> >> I replaced mine last year because it was leaking from the plastic bowl.
> The boat always seemed to have a diesel smell when I first bought her. I
> later found out that the previous owner had left the fuel shut off valve on
> over the winter and water in the bowl froze and cracked it. The fuel tank
> drained into the bilge. It is taken me two years to finally get the diesel
> smell out. Last fall before I winterized the boat, I pulled all the
> cushions and pressure washed the inside, including under the sink. People
> thought I was crazy but I got rid of the smell. Now I have to figure out
> how to get rid of the fiberglass. Guess I will have to live with that one.
> >>
> >> Also as I was looking for filters, I found that the ones used on the
> early 320s, were getting hard to find in our area. So I just bought a newer
> model. When I get to the office I will look it up and let you know what I
> put in.
> >>
> >> Art Harden
> >> Tortuga Catalina 320
> >> 937-477-5544 (m)
> >>
> >>> On Apr 1, 2018, at 10:23 PM, Chris Burti <clburti at gmail.com> wrote:
> >>>
> >>> Which Model Racor…the pump on ours is getting very stiff and I will
> need to rebuild or replace…
> >>>
> >>> Thanks,
> >>> Chris Burti
> >>> Farmville, NC
> >>>
> >>> From: Art Harden
> >>> Sent: Sunday, April 1, 2018 10:05 PM
> >>> To: C320-List at Catalina320.com
> >>> Subject: Re: [C320-list] Fuel Shut Off Valve at Racor Question
> >>>
> >>> I installed one in the line last year and it seems to work fine. Just
> check the valve handle operation before putting it in its final position.
> >>>
> >>> Art Harden
> >>> Tortuga Catalina 320
> >>> 937-477-5544 (m)
> >>>
> >>>> On Apr 1, 2018, at 9:55 PM, Dick Walker <dickwalker at att.net> wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>> I did it directly 18 years ago. No problems
> >>>>
> >>>> Cheers
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>> Dick Walker
> >>>> 740 Olive Ave.
> >>>> Coronado ,CA 92118
> >>>> 619.435.8986
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>> On Apr 1, 2018, at 17:43, Timothy Osburn <tosburn1958 at gmail.com>
> wrote:
> >>>>>
> >>>>> I have a question for those of you that have installed a fuel shut
> off
> >>>>> valve at the Racor.  Did you attach the shut off valve directly into
> the
> >>>>> Racor housing or did you add the shut off valve in the fuel line?
> If it
> >>>>> was directly into the Racor, did you have to use a 90 degree elbow
> with a
> >>>>> coupling?  A pic would be great if you have one.( I couldn't find
> one in
> >>>>> the tech gallery ).
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Thanks,
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Tim
> >>>
> >>>
> >>
> >
> >
>
>