[C320-list] Drilling stern rails

[Jeff Hare]

Free sound in the aft cabin?  I thought that's what the engine was for.

-Jeff

-----Original Message-----
From: C320-list <c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com> On Behalf Of Chris Nichols
Sent: Wednesday, May 9, 2018 7:53 AM
To: C320-List at Catalina320.com
Subject: Re: [C320-list] Drilling stern rails

Another thought is what we have - waterproof bulkhead mounted speakers on the sides of the cockpit footwell. 
One goes into the port locker and onbin the aft cabin with a teak box to back it. 

Nice thing is you get free sound in the aft cabin too!
Chris

> On 7 May 2018, at 14:33, Graeme Clark <cg at skyflyer.co.uk> wrote:
> 
> I chickened out on this task. I used cable ties to clamp the cable on the outside of the stainless stanchions then took a short loop to just beloiw where they attach to the deck and used a cable gland to makle a waterproof entry through the fiberglass hull on the transom. The wire is not exposed anywhere where it is likely to get caught by anything.  the whole job took about 15 minutes and I dont think I cursed once.
> 
> Yes, running the wiring inside the stanchion is a lot neater but I bet 99% of visitors on your boat will neither notice nor comment.
> 
> Graeme
> #366
> 
>> On 7 May 2018, at 13:44, Jeff Hare <Catalina at thehares.com> wrote:
>> 
>> Hi All,
>> 
>> Little more time now...  So, this only applies to those with the 2 older style stern rails (ones without cup holders) and the next generation version that were about the same but had cup holders.  These have the stern rail seats with the "curved" vertical tube in the center of the stern rail seat vs the newer style that has a straight and more leaned back stern rail set.  This newer style seat is also on the MKII version...
>> 
>> * We ran the wires into the horizontal tube below the seats (#1) towards the boarding ladder and down the nearest vertical tube (#2).
>> * The vertical tube has no hole in it where the horizontal tube is welded to it.
>> * The stanchion base plate (#3) also has no hole in it .
>> 
>> We drilled into the end of the horizontal tube (#1) right at the point in the curve where there is a perfectly straight shot through that tube over towards and into the vertical tube (#2).  That's important since you'll need to use a long COBALT drill bit to reach through that hole and all the way over to the vertical (#2).
>> 
>> Since it's on a curve, the drill-steady will make a round hole perpendicular to the tube but that's not the direction you'll need to drill to get the long drill bit to reach the vertical (#2).  But it'll help you with the pilot hole.  Consider that the hole drilled into the curve will end up more oval shape, so choose your starting point on the curve carefully.
>> 
>> Once you get the long drill bit to go through that hole and hits the vertical (#2), you'll need to drill through so that the wires can then turn the corner and go down (#2).  
>> 
>> Final step was to go below and Really Carefully mark the spot dead center between the two stanchion bolts.  Then drill a pilot hole with a small diameter COBALT bit to come up through that base plate (#3).  Be very careful of the ANGLE you drill so you don't come up off center too far.
>> 
>> If your language during this part of the project hasn't gotten you evicted from your marina yet, repeat for the other side...  
>> 
>> Be sure to use the marine wire that has a single pair of wires encased so that they will be protected against sharps edges when you feed them and you'll only have to feed a single wire each side.  I believe I had to fed a rather stiff wire with a loop on the end through (#1) until it went through the hole in the upright, then fed a long flexible wire UP through stanchion vertical (#2) until it hit the top (went through the loop).  Then I  pulled that flexible chase wire back out where the speaker would mount.  That chase wire was used to feed the speaker wire through that path.   Be sure to use a large enough drill bit that the wire will easily travel through that hole...  May want to use some wire chase lubricant to make it run easier... 
>> 
>> Don't use Titanium or other cheapo bits.  New Cobalt bits are harder than stainless (if you don't overheat the stainless) and will start and drill easily.  Oil the bit frequently!!  Go slowly.
>> 
>> It was not a fun project.  Hated every minute of it.  I'll come do yours for just about $1000.  As many of you know, I'm generally not afraid to tackle just about any boat project.  This one I could do without.
>> 
>> -Jeff Hare
>> 
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: C320-list <c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com> On Behalf Of Troy Dunn
>> Sent: Saturday, May 5, 2018 6:18 PM
>> To: C320-List at catalina320.com
>> Subject: [C320-list] Drilling stern rails
>> 
>> Has anyone actually drilled their stern rails in order to install speakers beneath the princess seats?  I will be doing this modification and I’m wondering if the base at the deck  already has an opening centered on the vertical post or if I’ll be drilling stainless at the base.  Seems like it will be solid,  but kinda hoping it isn’t.
>> 
>> Troy Dunn
>> Hull #514
>> S/V Wonky Dog
>> 
>