[C320-list] autohelm st 50 plus wind instrument

[hoopdtwo]

I highly suggest contacting Dan about a rebuild.  He completely rebuilt mine ... both wind direction and speed.Dave Hupe1994 Cat320 "Mayan Sun" (#32)Holland, MISent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
-------- Original message --------From: Mark Seyler <mseyler at cox.net> Date: 11/8/18  12:39 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: C320-List at Catalina320.com Subject: Re: [C320-list] autohelm st 50 plus wind instrument Joe,In 2015 I was able to get my ST50+ wind transducer repaired by a guy named Dan Gerhardt.  He charged $99 to repair, or offered rebuilt transducers for $300.  I had mine repaired, and it lasted until this past summer.  It still turns (the part Gearhardt repaired), but the display stopped showing the speed or direction.  (I haven't been able to diagnose whether it's the sensor or the display.)Gerhardt's e-mail address info in 2015 was C250 at mydurango.net.  Hope this info is helpful.Mark SeylerS/V Reality, Catalina 320, #232New Orleans, LA-----Original Message-----From: C320-list [mailto:c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com] On Behalf Of Elizabeth SchwartzSent: Thursday, November 08, 2018 10:38 AMTo: C320-List at Catalina320.comSubject: Re: [C320-list] autohelm st 50 plus wind instrumentAhoy, thanks for the response.....I am hesitant to buy the vane not knowing if it works,,,,and after a lightning strike......if I cant find another....how much do you want for it? Thanks...Joe  ph...631 473 3140On Wed, Nov 07, 2018 at 10:08 PM, kenneth bousum wrote:> Joe I have one but don't know if it works.I  got struck by lighting > and it took out all electronics on the pod.If interested let me know > and we can work something out.Ken B #711> ----- Original Message ----->> From: "Elizabeth Schwartz"  To: C320-List at Catalina320.com Cc: > c320-list at lists.catalina320.com Sent: Tuesday, November 6, 2018> 5:50:25 PM Subject: [C320-list] autohelm st 50 plus wind instrument > Ahoy all, has anybody out there upgraded, and have an st 50 plus > masthead transducer??  Thanks....Joe...#245>> On Mon, Oct 29, 2018 at 08:56 PM, Doug Treff wrote:>> Jeff,>> I use much the same process. The only difference this year is that I >> now have a freshwater flush electric toilet. I will have to manually >> disconnect the toilet line under the vanity and clear it with the >> shop vac so that I don't draw any contamination from the toilet bowl >> back into my water system.  Yuck!>> The extra complication is worth it because the admiral likes the fact >> that my head no longer stinks from the raw water flush.>> -->> Doug Treff doug at treff.us>> On Mon, Oct 29, 2018, at 2:44 PM, Jeff Hare wrote:>>> Hi, I used to use compressed air and you had to pay much more >>> attention to the sequence.  Much easier I think to use a shop vac.>>>  I use a small Stainless Steel shop vac with the smaller diameter >>> hose because it's easier to move around and seal around the pex.>>>  Note that I just use my hand and a wash cloth/small towel instead >>> of trying to get vacuum seal.  Doesn't need to be a good seal at all >>> when you're sucking the water out of the lines!  Doesn't take all >>> that much suction to do the job so don't bother trying to make it >>> anything special.>>> My current process is this:>>> - drain both water tanks and use the shop vac to drain/dry the >>> remaining water and leave the caps *off*.  - remove the drawers >>> below the galley sink - remove the 5 screws holding that drawer >>> frame in and remove/set aside the drawer frame - turn on the hot >>> water in the galley sink and open the hot water heater drain with >>> the shop vac hose over it.  When water stops draining out freely, >>> LEAVE the valve open and go on to the next step. - unscrew the >>> fitting on the water heater to the line that enters the water tank >>> about mid-level below the overflow valve.  This has a brass check >>> valve in-line and is KEY to draining the water tank properly! - with >>> the above line off put your shop vac over that water heater fitting.>>>  You'll get about 4-5 gallons of water out now and really quickly. >>> When no more water is coming out, and you've run about 60 seconds or >>> so longer, the water heater is now empty. - The next step is to >>> simply drain the pex lines.  I like to continue working under the >>> sink since I'm set up there already. - if your water pump has a >>> filter/screen assembly, open that up also make sure both tank valves >>> are in the open position in case they're located there.  I also >>> unhook the outlet line from the water pump. - open the galley sink >>> valves (or put the faucet in warm position if it's a single handle)>>> - Open the stern shower hot  and cold valves and unscrew the shower >>> wand (don't lose the rubber washer).  - Open the Head faucet valves >>> and just unscrew the stream/sprayer head. - Under the sink >>> disconnect the most convenient hot and cold pex lines (one of each) >>> and put the shop vac hose over them one at a time until no more >>> water is coming out.>>> Then reassemble everything.  This year I was done with this part in>>> 40 min.  The next part took another 20 min or so, but all in all, >>> the whole thing was about an hour and a couple beers.>>> Don't forget the SHOWER/FRIDGE drain lines, drying out the muffler >>> or the Bilge Pump lines.>>> >>> -------------------------------------------------------------------->>> ------------------------------------>>> Remove the shower sump's water pump's intake filter and use shop vac >>> to suck out the water from the shower sump and fridge drain.  You'll >>> need to flip the "Y" valve when you go from the shower sump to the >>> fridge drain.>>> Next, you have 2 Sump Pump lines to deal with.  The electric bilge >>> pump and the manual bilge pump.  The shop vac works for those also.>>> I typically put the shop vac hose over the side into the bilge pump>>> thru- hull opening on the starboard stern quarter.>>> If your aqua-lift muffler has a working drain valve, open that up >>> and put the shop vac hose over that and see how dry you can get the >>> muffler.  (Which reminds me, when you're running winterizing >>> antifreeze through the raw water system, run the engine for 10 or 15 >>> seconds after all the water stops coming out of the exhaust to blow >>> as much out of the lines as possible.) That was a bit rambling and >>> sounds like a lot of work, but it's the process I use and our water >>> system stays clean enough to drink from if needed with no smell.  If >>> you reconnect everything tight, you can just fill the water system >>> in the spring and you're good to go.>>> You could put "T" fittings with terminators in the places you >>> separated PEX fittings and just be able to open valves instead to do >>> the whole job.  I just haven't.  That would probably save me 15 - 20 >>> min per year and make the process feel easier.>>> Good luck! -Jeff Hare>>>>>> -----Original Message----- From: C320-list  On Behalf Of >>> islgirl3 at aol.com Sent: Monday, October 29, 2018 1:50 PM To:>>> c320-list at catalina320.com Subject: [C320-list] Fresh Water System >>> Winterizie Can anyone explain the procedure for using compressed air >>> to blow out fresh water system? Including water heater? Thank You, >>> Rich>>> Nuzzolo#897>>>>