[C320-list] Fresh Water System Winterizie

Mon Oct 29 15:00:54 PDT 2018

#765 has the water tank inspect ports and the rear tank is virtually empty after pumping out but the front has a exit above the bottom so a few litres of water remain there and is vacuumed up.

I use a combination of vacuum emptying and anti freeze introduction and then vacuuming out the anti freeze in some systems.  

I do not prefer to pull off hoses (hard on the hoses and hands) so have put a tee in some circuits to introduce Antifreeze and I use a bent copper tube through the water heater drain to vacuum out what remains after gravity draining into the vacuum.  There is a 3 way valve and by pass system on the water heater.

Ken Geiger
On Georgian bay where Northern Dream #765 is on the hard, winterized, covered and awaiting April.

-----Original Message-----
From: John Meyers <jcmeyers7 at gmail.com>
To: C320-List <C320-List at catalina320.com>
Sent: Mon, Oct 29, 2018 5:42 pm
Subject: Re: [C320-list] Fresh Water System Winterizie

Michael,

On my water tanks there are inspection ports (3 to 4 inches in diameter)
and I use an 18 inch piece of PVC pipe with the vac to suck water that
doesn't get out by pumping the tanks "empty".

John Meyers

On Mon, Oct 29, 2018 at 5:28 PM Michael Leschisin <
mleschisin at imagestudios.com> wrote:

> Thanks for the rundown on the water system Jeff!
>
> I have been tempted to forgo the antifreeze and use the air method but I’m
> a little skittish about getting all the water out of every nook and cranny
> of the water system.
>
> When you talk about using the shop vac to “drain/dry the remaining water
> from the water tanks” where are you attaching the shop vac to at that
> point.  One of my concerns has been making sure I get all of the water past
> the pumps in each of the set ups, (main system pump, shower sump pump,
> etc.). Is there sufficient clearance inside the pump for the remaining
> water to pass through or does the pump spin as the vac is sucking the
> system dry?  I’m not to worried about having a tablespoon of water here and
> there in the Pex since there will be plenty of room for it to expand if it
> were to freeze, but I worry what a little bit of water in the confined
> space of a pump could do.  Any opinions or advise on this?
>
> Thanks for the help,
>
>
> Michael Leschisin
> C320 #995,
> Wild Blue Yonder
> Menominee, MI
>
>
>
>
> > On Oct 29, 2018, at 3:29 PM, Gus Macdonald <rathlyn1 at gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > That’s a great write up Jeff. I use much the same processes and believe
> in vacuuming out lines rather than blowing out.  One difference to your
> process is that I vacuum out the lines to the tanks and the faucets at the
> pump inlet and outlets.
> >
> > Angus
> > Lindisfarne
> > #999
> >> On Oct 29, 2018, at 2:44 PM, Jeff Hare <Catalina at thehares.com> wrote:
> >>
> >> Hi,
> >> I used to use compressed air and you had to pay much more attention to
> the sequence.  Much easier I think to use a shop vac.  I use a small
> Stainless Steel shop vac with the smaller diameter hose because it's easier
> to move around and seal around the pex.  Note that I just use my hand and a
> wash cloth/small towel instead of trying to get vacuum seal.  Doesn't need
> to be a good seal at all when you're sucking the water out of the lines!
> Doesn't take all that much suction to do the job so don't bother trying to
> make it anything special.
> >>
> >> My current process is this:
> >>
> >> - drain both water tanks and use the shop vac to drain/dry the
> remaining water and leave the caps *off*.
> >> - remove the drawers below the galley sink
> >> - remove the 5 screws holding that drawer frame in and remove/set aside
> the drawer frame
> >> - turn on the hot water in the galley sink and open the hot water
> heater drain with the shop vac hose over it.  When water stops draining out
> freely, LEAVE the valve open and go on to the next step.
> >> - unscrew the fitting on the water heater to the line that enters the
> water tank about mid-level below the overflow valve. This has a brass
> check valve in-line and is KEY to draining the water tank properly!
> >> - with the above line off put your shop vac over that water heater
> fitting.  You'll get about 4-5 gallons of water out now and really quickly.
> When no more water is coming out, and you've run about 60 seconds or so
> longer, the water heater is now empty.
> >>
> >> - The next step is to simply drain the pex lines.  I like to continue
> working under the sink since I'm set up there already.
> >> - if your water pump has a filter/screen assembly, open that up also
> make sure both tank valves are in the open position in case they're located
> there.  I also unhook the outlet line from the water pump.
> >> - open the galley sink valves (or put the faucet in warm position if
> it's a single handle)
> >> - Open the stern shower hot  and cold valves and unscrew the shower
> wand (don't lose the rubber washer).
> >> - Open the Head faucet valves and just unscrew the stream/sprayer head.
> >> - Under the sink disconnect the most convenient hot and cold pex lines
> (one of each) and put the shop vac hose over them one at a time until no
> more water is coming out.
> >>
> >> Then reassemble everything.  This year I was done with this part in 40
> min.  The next part took another 20 min or so, but all in all, the whole
> thing was about an hour and a couple beers.
> >>
> >> Don't forget the SHOWER/FRIDGE drain lines, drying out the muffler or
> the Bilge Pump lines.
> >>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
> >>
> >> Remove the shower sump's water pump's intake filter and use shop vac to
> suck out the water from the shower sump and fridge drain.  You'll need to
> flip the "Y" valve when you go from the shower sump to the fridge drain.
> >>
> >> Next, you have 2 Sump Pump lines to deal with.  The electric bilge pump
> and the manual bilge pump.  The shop vac works for those also.  I typically
> put the shop vac hose over the side into the bilge pump thru-hull opening
> on the starboard stern quarter.
> >>
> >> If your aqua-lift muffler has a working drain valve, open that up and
> put the shop vac hose over that and see how dry you can get the muffler.
> (Which reminds me, when you're running winterizing antifreeze through the
> raw water system, run the engine for 10 or 15 seconds after all the water
> stops coming out of the exhaust to blow as much out of the lines as
> possible.)
> >>
> >> That was a bit rambling and sounds like a lot of work, but it's the
> process I use and our water system stays clean enough to drink from if
> needed with no smell.  If you reconnect everything tight, you can just fill
> the water system in the spring and you're good to go.
> >>
> >> You could put "T" fittings with terminators in the places you separated
> PEX fittings and just be able to open valves instead to do the whole job.
> I just haven't.  That would probably save me 15 - 20 min per year and make
> the process feel easier.
> >>
> >> Good luck!
> >> -Jeff Hare
> >>
> >>
> >> -----Original Message-----
> >> From: C320-list <c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com> On Behalf Of
> islgirl3 at aol.com
> >> Sent: Monday, October 29, 2018 1:50 PM
> >> To: c320-list at catalina320.com
> >> Subject: [C320-list] Fresh Water System Winterizie
> >>
> >> Can anyone explain the procedure for using compressed air to blow out
> fresh water system? Including water heater?
> >> Thank You,
> >> Rich Nuzzolo#897
> >>
> >
>
>