[C320-list] C320-list Digest, Vol 3436, Issue 1
tharrison at innovations-plus.com
tharrison at innovations-plus.com
Sun Apr 28 09:09:21 PDT 2019
Please keep us posted on your findings. I also have the leak and think it is
running down the stainless steel tube or down one of the nuts. It looks like
the prior owner just put silicone around the nut at one time.
I believe someone suggested I use Capt. Tolley's Creeping Crack Cure. Just
have not tried this. Not sure how it would move around the silicone or how
to get the silicone out before I tried this method.
Good luck.
T Harrison
Hull 424 1997
Whitby Ontario
-----Original Message-----
From: C320-list [mailto:c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com] On Behalf
Of Sara Skinner Schroeder
Sent: Saturday, April 27, 2019 9:15 PM
To: c320-list at lists.catalina320.com
Subject: Re: [C320-list] C320-list Digest, Vol 3436, Issue 1
Re: Instrument pod leak
I had the same leak down the wall in the aft cabin and the water was not
coming from the instrument pod but from the deck cavity for the emergency
tiller. The cavity was full of water, was dripping on to the steering
column which transferred to the gap between the casing that covers the helm
station instruments and the aft cabin wall. Check this before you rip apart
the helm station tubes.
Sara
Wandering Star
2000/#707
Sent from my iPad
> On Apr 27, 2019, at 1:01 PM, c320-list-request at lists.catalina320.com
wrote:
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> Today's Topics:
>
> 1. Re: Voltage Sense wire discoveries Balmar MC-614 (Troy Dunn)
> 2. Re: Leak at Instrument Pod Support Tubes (Troy Dunn)
> 3. Re: Leak at Instrument Pod Support Tubes (Graeme Clark)
> 4. Re: Leak at Instrument Pod Support Tubes (Dave Hupe)
> 5. Winch Rebuild Request (Tom Grass)
> 6. Re: Voltage Sense wire discoveries Balmar MC-614 (danny jensen)
> 7. Re: Winch Rebuild Request (allanfield47 at gmail.com)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Sat, 27 Apr 2019 04:59:55 -0400
> From: Troy Dunn <troutwarrior at gmail.com>
> To: C320-List at catalina320.com
> Subject: Re: [C320-list] Voltage Sense wire discoveries Balmar MC-614
> Message-ID:
> <CA+rGV8aofWTNXbFo5ZUQ6h5HJQ_3W=k-tzgwAT6uoWeqaizAQg at mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8"
>
> Nice video Danny!
>
> I went with the 14 AWG size that Balmar recommends, but...probably
> overkill. If you are using the MC series Regulator there will be a 1 amp
> fuse in that line...do you suppose that would have any effect on voltage
> drop? If so, would the larger wire size help with that. My thought is
no
> and that any voltage drop induced by the fuse and fuse holder would not be
> helped or hurt by the size of the wire.
>
> Regards-
>
> Troy
> Hull #514
>
>
>> On Wed, Apr 24, 2019 at 2:26 PM danny jensen <danny at jensenshouse.com>
wrote:
>>
>> Dear Group,
>> In reviewing my Balmar MC-614 wiring I discovered that I neglected to run
a
>> proper voltage sense wire so I was getting inconsistent charging with
>> loads. After some thinking about this I decided to create a separate
>> voltage sense circuit for chargers and other devices that sense voltage.
>> The video below describes the situation just fast forward to the end to
>> skip the experiment section.
>>
>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vhqVWS5wre0
>>
>> Danny
>> #972
>>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Sat, 27 Apr 2019 05:18:30 -0400
> From: Troy Dunn <troutwarrior at gmail.com>
> To: C320-List at catalina320.com
> Subject: Re: [C320-list] Leak at Instrument Pod Support Tubes
> Message-ID:
> <CA+rGV8b-E_gzi=BzBFj4kxHquPEnDKuKSuNsuZt69bCu4ZvNCg at mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8"
>
> Dave-
>
> No real help here, but figured I'd respond since I have experienced this
> leak and because you have a yahoo account your posts will be flagged as
> spam by anyone using gmail; hopefully my response will at least bump your
> question into the daylight for all the gmail folks.
>
> My fix for this leak was to buy a brand new chartplotter and autohelm and
> let the yard install it. That's a really expensive way to fix the leak.
> I suspect these leaks are created not by the guard attachment bolts, but
by
> the relatively large hole that has to be drilled to accommodate the
cabling
> and the poor design of the guard attachment to protect this hole from
water
> intrusion. Water can find its way to through that hole through a
variety
> of paths. I did find that with a properly tensioned and newer bimini
that
> actually sheds water, and a well fitting helm cover this issue would go
> away. That didn't mean I always had the foresight to ensure these things
> were up before retiring for the evening...
>
> Good luck, hopefully someone with a lot more experience at fixing your
> issue will reply.
>
> Troy Dunn
> Hull #514
>
>> On Wed, Apr 24, 2019 at 2:37 AM Dave Hupe <hoopdtwo at yahoo.com> wrote:
>>
>> I've developed a slow leak related to one of my stainless steel tubes for
>> the instruments/engine control panel wiring that extends into the cockpit
>> floor. This just showed up after uncovering the boat. The leak is
evident
>> by a trail of seepage down the back inside wall of the aft bedroom
>> (apparently dripping into the pan above the bed that covers the steering
>> idler pullies, with the water then slowly working its way out the aft end
>> of the pan).
>> Each stainless tube has a bracket at the bottom secured with 2 vertical
>> bolts (Philip head) extending into the cockpit floor and one horizontal
>> bolt on each bracket that seems like a "set screw".
>> Does anyone have experience dealing with leaks related to these tubes
that
>> can give advice? Are the vertical bolts each thru-bolts with nuts
>> underneath accessible thru the pan covering the idler pullies in the aft
>> stateroom, or are they screwed into plates in the cockpit floor? Have
you
>> packed the holes with butyl rubber and then reinstalled the brackets?
>> Thanks in advance for the advice.
>> Dave Hupe
>> 1994 Cat 320 (#32) "Mayan Sun"
>> Holland, MI
>>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Sat, 27 Apr 2019 13:16:57 +0100
> From: Graeme Clark <cg at skyflyer.co.uk>
> To: C320-List at Catalina320.com
> Subject: Re: [C320-list] Leak at Instrument Pod Support Tubes
> Message-ID: <7D128C20-D0D3-4FB8-AB1E-18BFCE549A6D at skyflyer.co.uk>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
>
> Dave
>
> I had the same problem and took the opportunity to try and fix it whilst
installing a new instrument pod which necessitates removing and extending
the steel hoop that it is attached to that bolts to the floor
> My memory on the precise fixing arrangements is hazy but I seem to recall
that the brackets are just screwed into the deck and not thru bolted
> There is then a large hole in side of the bottom of the stainless tube
into which the horizontal bolt of the bracket locates. It?s a short bolt so
you don?t end up clamping any cabling in the tube!
> The biggest job for me was thoroughly cleaning off all the silicone and
mastic that the previous owner had slapped over everything to try and stop
the leak
> I then rebedded using butyl and so far all has been good
> However there are other area (especially when sailing in the rain!) that
allow water into the binnacle and from there it drains into the box I. The
aft cabin that protects the steering gear
> I decided to accept that but drilled a small hole in the he aft cabin wall
a bit lower than the existing one to act as a drain. I painted the inside of
this hole with epoxy When I replaced the box I used butyl between its aft
face and the aft cabin wall
> Now any water that gets through will drain through the aft cabin wall and
run down into the bulge
> Hope this helps
> Graeme
> #366, 1996
>
> Sent from mobile: please excuse typos etc.!
>
>
>> On 27 Apr 2019, at 10:18, Troy Dunn <troutwarrior at gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> Dave-
>>
>> No real help here, but figured I'd respond since I have experienced this
>> leak and because you have a yahoo account your posts will be flagged as
>> spam by anyone using gmail; hopefully my response will at least bump your
>> question into the daylight for all the gmail folks.
>>
>> My fix for this leak was to buy a brand new chartplotter and autohelm and
>> let the yard install it. That's a really expensive way to fix the leak.
>> I suspect these leaks are created not by the guard attachment bolts, but
by
>> the relatively large hole that has to be drilled to accommodate the
cabling
>> and the poor design of the guard attachment to protect this hole from
water
>> intrusion. Water can find its way to through that hole through a
variety
>> of paths. I did find that with a properly tensioned and newer bimini
that
>> actually sheds water, and a well fitting helm cover this issue would go
>> away. That didn't mean I always had the foresight to ensure these
things
>> were up before retiring for the evening...
>>
>> Good luck, hopefully someone with a lot more experience at fixing your
>> issue will reply.
>>
>> Troy Dunn
>> Hull #514
>>
>>> On Wed, Apr 24, 2019 at 2:37 AM Dave Hupe <hoopdtwo at yahoo.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> I've developed a slow leak related to one of my stainless steel tubes
for
>>> the instruments/engine control panel wiring that extends into the
cockpit
>>> floor. This just showed up after uncovering the boat. The leak is
evident
>>> by a trail of seepage down the back inside wall of the aft bedroom
>>> (apparently dripping into the pan above the bed that covers the steering
>>> idler pullies, with the water then slowly working its way out the aft
end
>>> of the pan).
>>> Each stainless tube has a bracket at the bottom secured with 2 vertical
>>> bolts (Philip head) extending into the cockpit floor and one horizontal
>>> bolt on each bracket that seems like a "set screw".
>>> Does anyone have experience dealing with leaks related to these tubes
that
>>> can give advice? Are the vertical bolts each thru-bolts with nuts
>>> underneath accessible thru the pan covering the idler pullies in the aft
>>> stateroom, or are they screwed into plates in the cockpit floor? Have
you
>>> packed the holes with butyl rubber and then reinstalled the brackets?
>>> Thanks in advance for the advice.
>>> Dave Hupe
>>> 1994 Cat 320 (#32) "Mayan Sun"
>>> Holland, MI
>>>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 4
> Date: Sat, 27 Apr 2019 12:32:11 +0000 (UTC)
> From: Dave Hupe <hoopdtwo at yahoo.com>
> To: "C320-List at Catalina320.com" <C320-List at Catalina320.com>, Graeme
> Clark <cg at skyflyer.co.uk>
> Subject: Re: [C320-list] Leak at Instrument Pod Support Tubes
> Message-ID: <263611929.1366500.1556368331017 at mail.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8
>
> Thanks Graeme -
> Do you remember if the deck is solid fiberglass where the tubes attach
(hopefully not cored)?
> Dave
>
> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
>
> On Sat, Apr 27, 2019 at 8:17 AM, Graeme Clark<cg at skyflyer.co.uk> wrote:
Dave
>
> I had the same problem and took the opportunity to try and fix it whilst
installing a new instrument pod which necessitates removing and extending
the steel hoop that it is attached to that bolts to the floor
> My memory on the precise fixing arrangements is hazy but I seem to recall
that the brackets are just screwed into the deck and not thru bolted
> There is then a large hole in side of the bottom of the stainless tube
into which the horizontal bolt of the bracket locates. It?s a short bolt so
you don?t end up clamping any cabling in the tube!
> The biggest job for me was thoroughly cleaning off all the silicone and
mastic that the previous owner had slapped over everything to try and stop
the leak
> I then rebedded using butyl and so far all has been good
> However there are other area (especially when sailing in the rain!) that
allow water into the binnacle and from there it drains into the box I. The
aft cabin that protects the steering gear
> I decided to accept that but drilled a small hole in the he aft cabin wall
a bit lower than the existing one to act as a drain. I painted the inside of
this hole with epoxy When I replaced the box I used butyl between its aft
face and the aft cabin wall
> Now any water that gets through will drain through the aft cabin wall and
run down into the bulge
> Hope this helps
> Graeme
> #366, 1996
>
> Sent from mobile: please excuse typos etc.!
>
>
>> On 27 Apr 2019, at 10:18, Troy Dunn <troutwarrior at gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> Dave-
>>
>> No real help here, but figured I'd respond since I have experienced this
>> leak and because you have a yahoo account your posts will be flagged as
>> spam by anyone using gmail; hopefully my response will at least bump your
>> question into the daylight for all the gmail folks.
>>
>> My fix for this leak was to buy a brand new chartplotter and autohelm and
>> let the yard install it.? That's a really expensive way to fix the leak.
>> I suspect these leaks are created not by the guard attachment bolts, but
by
>> the relatively large hole that has to be drilled to accommodate the
cabling
>> and the poor design of the guard attachment to protect this hole from
water
>> intrusion.? ? Water can find its way to through that hole through a
variety
>> of paths.? I did find that with a properly tensioned and newer bimini
that
>> actually sheds water, and a well fitting helm cover this issue would go
>> away.? That didn't mean I always had the foresight to ensure these things
>> were up before retiring for the evening...
>>
>> Good luck, hopefully someone with a lot more experience at fixing your
>> issue will reply.
>>
>> Troy Dunn
>> Hull #514
>>
>>> On Wed, Apr 24, 2019 at 2:37 AM Dave Hupe <hoopdtwo at yahoo.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> I've developed a slow leak related to one of my stainless steel tubes
for
>>> the instruments/engine control panel wiring that extends into the
cockpit
>>> floor.? This just showed up after uncovering the boat. The leak is
evident
>>> by a trail of seepage down the back inside wall of the aft bedroom
>>> (apparently dripping into the pan above the bed that covers the steering
>>> idler pullies, with the water then slowly working its way out the aft
end
>>> of the pan).
>>> Each stainless tube has a bracket at the bottom secured with 2 vertical
>>> bolts (Philip head) extending into the cockpit floor and one horizontal
>>> bolt on each bracket that seems like a "set screw".
>>> Does anyone have experience dealing with leaks related to these tubes
that
>>> can give advice? Are the vertical bolts each thru-bolts with nuts
>>> underneath accessible thru the pan covering the idler pullies in the aft
>>> stateroom, or are they screwed into plates in the cockpit floor?? Have
you
>>> packed the holes with butyl rubber and then reinstalled the brackets?
>>> Thanks in advance for the advice.
>>> Dave Hupe
>>> 1994 Cat 320 (#32) "Mayan Sun"
>>> Holland, MI
>>>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 5
> Date: Sat, 27 Apr 2019 11:21:43 -0500
> From: Tom Grass <tgrass462 at gmail.com>
> To: C320-List at catalina320.com
> Subject: [C320-list] Winch Rebuild Request
> Message-ID:
> <CAGdN-uVjnmMQ0gk5XH7Z4Ay2YFVPSSpkVc=AjZfXHs4NuEN0nA at mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8"
>
> This is an urgent request.- I am at IRISH Boat Works in Charlevoix,
> Michigan regreasing the winches on Bucket List (2008 Catalina 320 MK II).
> I did the first winch atop the cabin with no problem. I followed the Tech
> Notes on doing this very job from November 2004. However when I moved to
> the main 2-speed winch toward the stern I ran into a problem. I was able
> to disassemble the winch down to the last set of ratchet gears; the small
> set were on the 'outside' of the winch - these slid out with no issue; the
> larger set of gears can not be slid out; the winch is installed in a
socket
> in the fiberglass such that the gears are boxed in. The open on the other
> (outside) of the winch casting is too small.
>
> Question - is there a way to remove the larger gear set? Do I have to
> unscrew the screws holding the winch to the boat? If I do - are these
> bolts going into a threaded backing plate glassed in - OR - do these go
> into a backing plate with nuts? If so - I do not know how to access the
> nuts without cutting a hole in my fiberglass.
>
> Any assistance would be helpful. ( I Resubmitted this without Photos.)
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 6
> Date: Sat, 27 Apr 2019 10:03:32 -0700
> From: danny jensen <danny at jensenshouse.com>
> To: "C320-List at Catalina320.com" <C320-List at catalina320.com>
> Subject: Re: [C320-list] Voltage Sense wire discoveries Balmar MC-614
> Message-ID:
> <CAKicGvmOAm_BZKnhDoyCsahzB+47P4DjWP5CQbq478S1GpzCug at mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8"
>
> Troy,
> Thanks for your reply. In the video, I used the voltmeter and on a 1 Amp
> fuse and it made no difference as you suspected. The thing I couldn't get
> through my thick head was ohms law. V=I * R where I = curent; V= voltage
> drop ; R resistance ... As current approaches 0 as it does in our case,
> because I am *now* aware enough to use a wire direct from the battery to
> the voltage sense input on the Balmar MC-614 that that has almost no load,
> .. *The Voltage Drop is near zero no matter what the resistance is if we
> are just going to measure voltage on this special purpose circuit.
>
> Danny
>
>> On Sat, Apr 27, 2019 at 2:00 AM Troy Dunn <troutwarrior at gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> Nice video Danny!
>>
>> I went with the 14 AWG size that Balmar recommends, but...probably
>> overkill. If you are using the MC series Regulator there will be a 1
amp
>> fuse in that line...do you suppose that would have any effect on voltage
>> drop? If so, would the larger wire size help with that. My thought is
no
>> and that any voltage drop induced by the fuse and fuse holder would not
be
>> helped or hurt by the size of the wire.
>>
>> Regards-
>>
>> Troy
>> Hull #514
>>
>>
>> On Wed, Apr 24, 2019 at 2:26 PM danny jensen <danny at jensenshouse.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Dear Group,
>>> In reviewing my Balmar MC-614 wiring I discovered that I neglected to
>> run a
>>> proper voltage sense wire so I was getting inconsistent charging with
>>> loads. After some thinking about this I decided to create a separate
>>> voltage sense circuit for chargers and other devices that sense voltage.
>>> The video below describes the situation just fast forward to the end to
>>> skip the experiment section.
>>>
>>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vhqVWS5wre0
>>>
>>> Danny
>>> #972
>>>
>>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 7
> Date: Sat, 27 Apr 2019 13:26:58 -0400
> From: allanfield47 at gmail.com
> To: <C320-List at Catalina320.com>
> Subject: Re: [C320-list] Winch Rebuild Request
> Message-ID: <003101d4fd1e$6b374ee0$41a5eca0$@gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Tom - I tore down my winches every year and never had such an issue,
although my boat was a 2002 and not an MK II. Can you send me a pix offline
(AllanField47 at gmail.com) of what you are dealing with? Not sure I can help
but this really sounds weird! - Allan
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: C320-list <c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com> On Behalf Of Tom
Grass
> Sent: Saturday, April 27, 2019 12:22 PM
> To: C320-List at catalina320.com
> Subject: [C320-list] Winch Rebuild Request
>
> This is an urgent request.- I am at IRISH Boat Works in Charlevoix,
Michigan regreasing the winches on Bucket List (2008 Catalina 320 MK II).
> I did the first winch atop the cabin with no problem. I followed the Tech
Notes on doing this very job from November 2004. However when I moved to
the main 2-speed winch toward the stern I ran into a problem. I was able to
disassemble the winch down to the last set of ratchet gears; the small set
were on the 'outside' of the winch - these slid out with no issue; the
larger set of gears can not be slid out; the winch is installed in a socket
in the fiberglass such that the gears are boxed in. The open on the other
> (outside) of the winch casting is too small.
>
> Question - is there a way to remove the larger gear set? Do I have to
unscrew the screws holding the winch to the boat? If I do - are these bolts
going into a threaded backing plate glassed in - OR - do these go into a
backing plate with nuts? If so - I do not know how to access the nuts
without cutting a hole in my fiberglass.
>
> Any assistance would be helpful. ( I Resubmitted this without Photos.)
>
>
>
> End of C320-list Digest, Vol 3436, Issue 1
> ******************************************
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