[C320-list] Motor mounts

[Diane Fowler]

My mechanic says the " clunking" sound I get on my Yanmar 27 is because I need new motor mounts.

Says they come in :

Soft
Medium. Or
Hard rubber.

Which do I want??

S/V Windy City, Hull #948

Captain Diane Fowler, Sellstate Priority Realty Network.    
Www.CapeCoralHomes.com
239-850-4935
Sent from my iPhone

> On Feb 7, 2019, at 12:49 AM, Scott Lagerquist <lgrqst at aol.com> wrote:
> 
> Troy,
> Just to add another technique for removing stubborn hatch screws is to use an electric drill/driver with the clutch set really low.  Then alternate forward and reverse until the screw comes out.  The clutch slips and prevents the screw tip from stripping. I was amazed how well this worked and it eliminates the need for pb blaster for those not wanting chemicals on the hatches or deck. 
> 
> I’m not knocking your technique and wanted to share an alternate way of removing seized hatch screws that might help others on the forum.
> 
> Cheers,
> Scott Lagerquist 
> Sea Esta
> 1994 C320 #39
> San Diego CA
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> 
>> On Feb 5, 2019, at 5:27 PM, Troy Dunn <troutwarrior at gmail.com> wrote:
>> 
>> My new hatch lenses are on the way and I was able to 'convince' all the
>> appropriate screws to give up their corrosive relationships with the hatch
>> hinges.    For all those playing at home, the approach that worked for me
>> was soaking with pb blaster, and then getting the most tightly fitting
>> driver I could find and using valve grinding compound to provide additional
>> grit fill to ensure no cam out or stripping of the screw heads and then
>> putting the driver in an impact driver and pulling the trigger.  Worked
>> flawlessly on every screw.   Fiddling around with a screwdriver or other
>> tool felt like a recipe for stripping the screws.   There is a risk of
>> shearing the screws, there are plenty of horror stories out there on the
>> forums, so ...your mileage will vary.
>> 
>> Anyhow, I need to bring the hatches home to the workshop to do this job
>> right and comfortably.   The boat isn’t covered and I need to figure out a
>> good secure way to cover the hatch holes while I work on the hatch lids.
>> I think an approach that should work is to thru bolt a piece of plywood
>> that covers the hole to a length of 2x4 on the inside that acts as a toggle
>> bolt to hold the plywood down to the hatch rim.   I think a plastic bag
>> over the plywood and maybe some sort of temporary sealant around the hatch
>> rim would work.  The bag will be open underneath so the bolt can be
>> attached to the 2x4 and tightened from inside the boat.   Wondering if
>> anyone has a simpler but similarly secure and cheap solution?
>> 
>> Troy Dunn
>> S/V Wonky Dog
>> Hull#514
>