[C320-list] Oil pan replacement

[Mark Cole]

A couple of members asked for photos of replacing the oil pan on Fiddler’s Green, so I set up an album on my owner’s gallery.  If this link <https://c320.org/mediagallery/album.php?aid=324&sort=0> doesn’t take you there, go to the C320.org <http://c320.org/> site, click on “Owner’s Galleries” under “Photo Gallery”.  The Fiddler’s Green gallery is at the bottom of the third page.

Mark Cole
Fiddler’s Green #8

> On Jan 7, 2019, at 5:39 PM, Mark Cole <boatnboot at me.com> wrote:
> 
> Hi, Michael;
> 
> I replaced the oil pan on my Perkins M30 this spring.  Here are the steps I followed;
> 
> Removed both engines covers and the cabin ladder;
> Removed the bulkhead over the engine between the galley and the aft cabin.  There are screws along the top and galley side that are easy to find, but there is also one in the lower left corner, when standing in the galley that screws into a fiberglass stringer in the aft cabin;
> I covered all surfaces in the galley with a heavy cardboard called Ramboard.  You can get it at Home Depot or a good hardware store;
> We slid the engine out into the galley, so everything needs to be disconnected from the engine: fuel lines, exhaust elbow, electrical lines, drive shaft, everything!  Take lots of photos so you know how it all goes back;
> Removed the bolts attaching the motor mounts to the fiberglass stringers that support the engine.  This allows you to slide the engine forward instead of lifting it off of the single bolt sticking up from each mount.  My engine had aluminum spacers under each mount so I had to number each spacer and trace around it to help with repositioning the engine correctly;
> Slid the engine straight forward into the middle of the galley floor.  The engine is lighter than I was ready for, so this went very smoothly, but it did take two guys to do it.  I laid two sections of 2x6 on the floor and the engine slid out onto this wood;
> Tilted the engine over onto the starter side, onto another short piece of wood.  In this position, it is easy to remove/replace the oil pan and clean up the lower engine block;
> Stood the engine up and slid it back into place and loosely bolted the motor mounts down.  Now check the alignment of the drive shaft couplings to make sure the engine alignment is correct.  Work with the alignment to get it perfect before bolting the couplings together;
> Reconnected everything to the engine.  I plugged the fuel lines as soon as I disconnected them so there wasn’t much air to bleed.
> 
> This sounds like a lot of work, but it went pretty quickly with two guys. (The friend that helped me was a diesel mechanic…)  I have photos of the process.  Let me know if you want me to send them to you.
> 
> Mark Cole
> Fiddler’s Green #8
> Puget Sound
> 
>> On Jan 7, 2019, at 3:58 PM, argates2nd <argates2nd at comcast.net> wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> I replaced pan on #182 a year ago.  The bottom had rusted/scaled but not leaked much.New pan and gasket bought from TD in MD.  Two guys (due to need to tilt the engine up for pan bolt access) did the replacement in a couple hours after I had removed as much of the bulkhead below the gangway as would come off.  They also checked the motor mounts and found them to be like new -- which was a surprise for a 22 year-old, 900 hour engine, and changed the oil & filter. Total cost $700 in SW FL.Rollie
>> 
>> 
>> Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone
>> 
>> -------- Original message --------
>> From: Michael Ferguson <coralman at bellsouth.net> 
>> Date: 1/6/19  7:22 AM  (GMT-05:00) 
>> To: Catalina List <c320-list at catalina320.com> 
>> Subject: [C320-list] Oil pan replacement 
>> 
>> The oil pan on my 95' Perkins rusted thru and now leaking oil. Had anyone replaced their pan on that model. Any suggestions. Thanks MichaelNauti Clew 169
>> 
>> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
>